ALKY Injection Gone Wrong........ WAY wrong.....
Originally Posted by eve-slow
That sucks really bad. Your last pic did make me laugh though. 
lol, ya i Really dont care that at i blew the motor to be honest, ya the down time sucks. But whatever its winter anyways. I'm just thinking of building a 2.0 or going with a 4g64. .
any input
Originally Posted by Evoryder
teflon tape
thread lock
engine management failsafe(target a/f)
would have prevented this...maybe a blessing in surprise?
thread lock
engine management failsafe(target a/f)
would have prevented this...maybe a blessing in surprise?
Hmm.... maybe i should clearify..... ALKY didnt do this .... Just the Noozle did..... and yes.... i know thread sealer right.!
Originally Posted by inco9nito99
Should use a one-way check valve on the line feeding to the nozzle as well as bead welded the nozzle onto the UICP so it can't unscrew itself and caulk around it using some sort of adhesive so unmetered air isnt being sucked in from around the nozzle.
Your idea is good, in fact is great , unfortunately the way the Hago nozzles are made it would be almost near imposible to weld them. The reason being is because the thread on the Hago nozzle is designed to stick out of the UICP(outter part of the piping).
Additionally, the Hago nozzle mates with the female stainless steel braided line nozzle coupler and there is no room to weld them together.
If matters weren't bad already, I doubt you could weld that soft brass nozzle into an aluminium UICP.
It is just my thought, I am not trying to bring you down.
Carlos
Originally Posted by statix
Damn, that sucks. Another alky injected evo bites the dust......
I know of many many people that destroyed their engines completely by just forgeting to secure one boost line. It happens!!, I just don't want people to get the wrong impressions of alcohol kits.
A local friend of mine has been a pioneer using SMC alcohol kit, he had his kit for 6.5 years and never failed on him, but get this, he had the first gen SMC kit. This guy ran a 10.7@135 in AZ with a Stealth R/T.
Carlos
Last edited by fromWRXtoEVO; Nov 2, 2006 at 09:43 PM.
Originally Posted by Player1
I'm no expert but shouldn't you of used loc-tite on every metal to metal connection? BTW sorry to hear about the situation, good luck with the re build.
Teflon is a more feasible option as it never rust and it also provides gas/liquid tight seal.
Carlos
Last edited by fromWRXtoEVO; Nov 2, 2006 at 10:53 PM.
Originally Posted by fromWRXtoEVO
No failsafe could had prevent this incident. This is a unique failure due to human error of metal fatigue. The only arguable thing here is that perhaps an audial or visual warning signal(water/alcoholflow gauge, or LED lit) would had warned the driver of a malfuntion.
The way these nozle are located and installed there is no margin for error, the noozle would be sucked in into the TB and there is nothing you can do abaout it unless you use a nozzle like the NOS nozzles which can be screwed into the manifold via thread.
Carlos
The way these nozle are located and installed there is no margin for error, the noozle would be sucked in into the TB and there is nothing you can do abaout it unless you use a nozzle like the NOS nozzles which can be screwed into the manifold via thread.
Carlos
Originally Posted by fromWRXtoEVO
Not really. There are some components in which I would never put loctite, one of them the turbo.
Teflon is a more feasible option as it never rust and it also provides gas/liquid tight seal.
Carlos
Teflon is a more feasible option as it never rust and it also provides gas/liquid tight seal.
Carlos
First off Carlos, thanks alot for your support. Your have the right idea, and in now means is this thread to bring down alky kits in anyway shape or form, my ultimate goal for this thread is for SMC/SNOW/Cooling Mist.... and all other Alky companies to try a design a better product. Like any other newer technology there is an R and D process, and yes, my car is a by stander. you seem to be the only one really readying my post and have been through or witnessed similar events.
After all this.... i still plan to use ALKY as part of my setup. However i will just Fix what they didnt. If it means Devolping a nozzle that to me is safe. I will,
Anthony
Boston Dyno
Originally Posted by Spooldyou
First off Carlos, thanks alot for your support. Your have the right idea, and in now means is this thread to bring down alky kits in anyway shape or form, my ultimate goal for this thread is for SMC/SNOW/Cooling Mist.... and all other Alky companies to try a design a better product. Like any other newer technology there is an R and D process, and yes, my car is a by stander. you seem to be the only one really readying my post and have been through or witnessed similar events.
Anthony
Boston Dyno
Anthony
Boston Dyno
fwiw, aquamist is working on a failsafe add on box that can be used with any water/meth/alch injection system... but the real beauty of the Aquamist system is the parts and the thought that went into them... it is no mystery why WRC teams chose Aquamist as their supplier before the ultimate banning of water injection.
-franz
A few years back I had a nozzle come loose on my wet nitrous kit. It didn't get sucked into the motor but the nozzle was pointing at my UICP instead of the TB. The fuel condensed on the pipe and liquified in the IM. The motor not only leaned out but also caused a nitrous backfire that destroyed my MAF, TB, and intake. This kind of stuff happens quite quickly. Unless those connections are checked every day it could happen to anyone.
the aquamist dds3, with the capability of setting the "safety operating window" will tell you that something is wrong when the nozzle came off, ie nozzle falling off = very high flow rate.
that way, you might have ease off on the gas and prevented the nozzle from being pushed/sucked into the combustion chamber.
that way, you might have ease off on the gas and prevented the nozzle from being pushed/sucked into the combustion chamber.
Actually, Carlos, what I had done in my DIY kit on my eclipse *check sig* was use a male-female 90degree adaptor piece where the male-ended nozzle screwed into the female end of the 90degree (through the UICP), and the male end of the 90degree had perfect clearance to be tapped into the s.s line feeding the meth. So the outer portion (showing) of the adaptor had perfect clearance to be welded onto the mild steel UICP. Has been working like a charm, never clogged since I use two in-line filters and since it doesn't drip (due to the check valve placed in the lines), I have no issues with it clogging *yes I check to see if its clogged periodically). Not bad for a $150 dollar DIY project if you ask me. Never has it shown its' ugly side to me :knock on wood: :P.