ALKY Injection Gone Wrong........ WAY wrong.....
Poor choice of nozzle by kit manufacturer. Looks brass also
Best way I think is to use the stainless ones with threads on both ends. The nozzle holder threads on the other side is loctite 271 in there, nozzle wont come off holder no matter what you try
Hope everything goes well with rebuild
Best way I think is to use the stainless ones with threads on both ends. The nozzle holder threads on the other side is loctite 271 in there, nozzle wont come off holder no matter what you try
Hope everything goes well with rebuild
Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Nov 3, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
Originally Posted by fatbastard
and this would be a non-issue when using Aquamist products... which might seem to be a little too expenisve, but cheaper than this failure and they do have much better failsafes "across the board"
fwiw, aquamist is working on a failsafe add on box that can be used with any water/meth/alch injection system... but the real beauty of the Aquamist system is the parts and the thought that went into them... it is no mystery why WRC teams chose Aquamist as their supplier before the ultimate banning of water injection.
-franz
fwiw, aquamist is working on a failsafe add on box that can be used with any water/meth/alch injection system... but the real beauty of the Aquamist system is the parts and the thought that went into them... it is no mystery why WRC teams chose Aquamist as their supplier before the ultimate banning of water injection.
-franz
You are right, but to me there is no real Fail safe to this to a Nozzle coming loose. Its a quality control with the parts used. I know that Cooling mist is a great company and you are right that most if not all Rally teams used this until the banning.
My goal is not to Scare people of Alky Injection, i think its a great, and very cheap alternative to Race gas that you could use every day. Like i said i still plan on using this in my setup... maybe no this exact kit. but alky in general.
BTW PM Me with you account info.
I think the quote about rally cars using it, was pointing out that Aquamist parts are designed better.
I built an Aquamist kit for my old Eclipse. I haven't seen any of these kits by CoolingMist, etc, but do those nozzles thread from the inside of the pipe? If so, that's just a very bad design.
Aquamist nozzles thread in from the outside of the pipe, so you would never be able to suck a nozzle into the IC pipe or intake.
Eric
EDIT: Here is a picture that shows Aquamist nozzles:
I built an Aquamist kit for my old Eclipse. I haven't seen any of these kits by CoolingMist, etc, but do those nozzles thread from the inside of the pipe? If so, that's just a very bad design.
Aquamist nozzles thread in from the outside of the pipe, so you would never be able to suck a nozzle into the IC pipe or intake.
Eric
EDIT: Here is a picture that shows Aquamist nozzles:
I definitely like the look of those aquamist nozzles.
One thing you could do is use something similar to the trick with DSMLink for nos control. use the fuel pressure solenoid (or any other switching solenoid) to keep boost at wastegate pressure (or use a second MBC for pressure 1), then hook up the coolingmist pressure sensor that lights the LEDs to tell you if you have a clog (or that your meth is on).
So, if you have pressure, the sensor then then grounds your LEDs to light, as well as the solenoid. This, in turn, raises your boost to alky level. It would be a little touchy unless you had a really sensitive sensor, but even if you had it switch the boost over just after your injection came on the worst that could happen is a couple of counts of knock. You would also realize that something was wrong with the system, back off and see that your nozzle was about to get eaten by your motor!
Whats up Kunal! Hello from IRNN
One thing you could do is use something similar to the trick with DSMLink for nos control. use the fuel pressure solenoid (or any other switching solenoid) to keep boost at wastegate pressure (or use a second MBC for pressure 1), then hook up the coolingmist pressure sensor that lights the LEDs to tell you if you have a clog (or that your meth is on).
So, if you have pressure, the sensor then then grounds your LEDs to light, as well as the solenoid. This, in turn, raises your boost to alky level. It would be a little touchy unless you had a really sensitive sensor, but even if you had it switch the boost over just after your injection came on the worst that could happen is a couple of counts of knock. You would also realize that something was wrong with the system, back off and see that your nozzle was about to get eaten by your motor!
Whats up Kunal! Hello from IRNN
Originally Posted by Spooldyou
lol, ya i Really dont care that at i blew the motor to be honest, ya the down time sucks. But whatever its winter anyways. I'm just thinking of building a 2.0 or going with a 4g64. .
any input
any input
RACE GAS IS ...nice but meth is has it's perks too
..so the nozzle came off into the intake tract? i thought the nozzle came out into the engine bay...damn...you're right...no failsafe for that ...however...
1. locktite
2. teflon tape
3. prayers
..so the nozzle came off into the intake tract? i thought the nozzle came out into the engine bay...damn...you're right...no failsafe for that ...however...
1. locktite
2. teflon tape
3. prayers
Originally Posted by fostytou
I definitely like the look of those aquamist nozzles.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...91&postcount=1
Originally Posted by razorlab
yea, your wallet really loves you now doesn't it. 

My evo Take about 10 gallons TOPS at the pump i never run it on the Oragne Death Light. .....
Shell 93 at my local gas station, the only one that i go too.... is 2.55
2.55 x 10 = 25.50 to fill my tank..... I fill up once a week lets say... So thats...
25.50 x 52 = 1326 A YEAR on gas...... ALONE just to drive my Car.....
If we do Your Suggestion.... of " Use Race Gas" Who ever suggested Turbo Blue 110... @ 4.50 a gallon... Which is NOT wht it cost up here.... Race gas a good 7.50 a gallon... But for numbers sake.. well use you 4.50
4.50 x 10 = $ 45 a fill up..... using my same very un realistic... once a week fill up..... your talking....
45 x 52 = 2340 A YEAR........
these numbers are the farthest thing from the truth... but it puts it into perspective for you
Why would i spend this much a year on gas to Fill up... when i could easily with that extra 1000 that i would save with 93 octane. ....buy a nice SMC or Cooling Mist or Aqua mist kit with every single fail safe mentionable.... After 1 year of use. it would pay for itself.....
So for me to spend my money on Race gas and race gas only is not likely..... Thats why me... and most of the meth users make our choice....
Last edited by Spooldyou; Nov 4, 2006 at 03:55 PM.
Originally Posted by fostytou
You would also realize that something was wrong with the system, back off and see that your nozzle was about to get eaten by your motor!







