FPEvoGreen First Impressions
Originally Posted by KOEvo
Yeah, you must have missed FP's test where they gained 100 whp with just tbe and this turbo on pump... Barely tuned...
I guess until more fpevogreens are tested the verdict is still out.
Originally Posted by Pd1
The tune will be in-line tomorrow night and I'll post some data with before/after analysis. Until then, let's please try to keep this on topic.
Originally Posted by RoadSpike
Pd1 since your in California are you keeping this one a 91 octane girl or do you have plans for the alky/race gas?
If you guys contribute enough for a dyno time, I'll front the race gas cost and turn up the boost.
I also wish I had held onto the DSMLink for comparison's sake, but it looks like Mr. Jewer will be doing that back-to-back lb/min test for us soon. DSMLink will always have a special place in my heart -- it's just so good and so simple. If they made one with the Evo ECU, I'd certainly go back. I may go to the track at some point with some race gas and see what happens.
My mods are on my site, nothing special.
As far as resonated TPs go, louvered core units can be restrictive, but IIRC, a perforate core (dynomax race bullet) unit did not have any appreciable effect on airflow or trap speeds.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
**Yes, for the DSM they are great. Initial testing for the Mags on the EVO also proved to be good so we sold them. If you notice now they are down from our site and haven't been up for a long time. They SUCK on the EVO.
wow this thread went nowhere fast. i think a lot of u guys are taking Davids words the wrong way. he was simply making sugestions to make more power, thats it.
all i can really say is, get your car tuned from a reputable tuner and we can go from there. im not even sure y u would be running your ca without a tune, its not safe. i mean u just spent 1700 on this turbo, whats another 300-500 on a tune and dyno time.
all i can really say is, get your car tuned from a reputable tuner and we can go from there. im not even sure y u would be running your ca without a tune, its not safe. i mean u just spent 1700 on this turbo, whats another 300-500 on a tune and dyno time.
Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
all i can really say is, get your car tuned from a reputable tuner and we can go from there. im not even sure y u would be running your ca without a tune, its not safe. i mean u just spent 1700 on this turbo, whats another 300-500 on a tune and dyno time.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
I will be taking an assload of before and after logs in DSMlink and AEM with specific intentions. Because I have a disease, I will probably put together some comparison charts for airflow vs boost among other things. Once that's done the Sunoco 117 goes in and the WG vac line gets pulled. TTP, I think it was you that asked about this turbo holding 30 psi to redline? I can't see it happening either from an educated/experienced guess, but I will be happy to provide the boost/airflow vs rpm data with no signal to the WGA on the upgraded actuator. I'm expecting a taper to around 26-28 psi depending on where max airflow actually ends up, but we'll see. I'm most interested in what airflow will be in this condition, since this is how I run at the track.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Since you spent time in my thread I figured I'd come into this one and make one post.
I can count atleast 7 items on your car that are hurting the performance of it and could be improved. Using this car as a test bed to show what this turbo is capable of is silly but the more EVO's I see come through here with a mix match of messed up combinations and parts choices on I guess in reality it is more typical than it should be.
Just remember, don't hold the turbo accountable for the power this car puts out if and when it finally hits the dyno.
Good luck and I hope you are happy with how the car runs. You'd make more power and have a better car if the combo was put together better, IMHO.
I can count atleast 7 items on your car that are hurting the performance of it and could be improved. Using this car as a test bed to show what this turbo is capable of is silly but the more EVO's I see come through here with a mix match of messed up combinations and parts choices on I guess in reality it is more typical than it should be.
Just remember, don't hold the turbo accountable for the power this car puts out if and when it finally hits the dyno.
Good luck and I hope you are happy with how the car runs. You'd make more power and have a better car if the combo was put together better, IMHO.
??? So basically if it's not a 100% racecar the turbo won't make power? What on his car will you blame for the expected large ammount of power loss?
Pd1: Great post. Thanks for the information.
BTW, your mod list is about as good as it gets.
FYI, the HKS EVC EZ is not a closed loop boost controller (Non fuzzy logic). It doesnt learn at all. I have seen that problem once before. It was caused with a FP upgraded actuator that was tightened too tightly. The best setting is 4 full turns of the end (from the zero preload point). Try that and see if the boost instability will subside.
The only bad thing is the Magnacore wires. Take them off. They MIGHT not be hurting you right now, but we had a guy with a bad misfire that we chased for about a month. It turned out to be the wires. They dont have a solid connection at the spark plug. The stock wires will work just as well, but have a more solid connection at the spark plug.
You can make more power with a more aggessive cam, but there are always some sacrifices (idle, lower torque etc.) Other than that you will not make anymore power by changing anything in your mods list to another BRAND.
Get it tuned. The tuning will help you out getting your torque up and moving the HP up. You have very good tuning tools at your disposal. Make a before test with your setup and tuning now. Do this on a road that you can repeat the test on after tuning. Same spot on the road, same gear, same start and finish RPM. That will give you a good idea of your improvement.
Brian
BTW, your mod list is about as good as it gets.
FYI, the HKS EVC EZ is not a closed loop boost controller (Non fuzzy logic). It doesnt learn at all. I have seen that problem once before. It was caused with a FP upgraded actuator that was tightened too tightly. The best setting is 4 full turns of the end (from the zero preload point). Try that and see if the boost instability will subside.
The only bad thing is the Magnacore wires. Take them off. They MIGHT not be hurting you right now, but we had a guy with a bad misfire that we chased for about a month. It turned out to be the wires. They dont have a solid connection at the spark plug. The stock wires will work just as well, but have a more solid connection at the spark plug.
You can make more power with a more aggessive cam, but there are always some sacrifices (idle, lower torque etc.) Other than that you will not make anymore power by changing anything in your mods list to another BRAND.
Get it tuned. The tuning will help you out getting your torque up and moving the HP up. You have very good tuning tools at your disposal. Make a before test with your setup and tuning now. Do this on a road that you can repeat the test on after tuning. Same spot on the road, same gear, same start and finish RPM. That will give you a good idea of your improvement.
Brian
about 50 whp and about 50wtq on 91 pump over a IX turbo. I think thats pretty good with no or very little loss in spool and minimal tunning. I might try to get my 20g LT in soon, like this weekend. Im gonna take it to a true dyno before and after though. Numbers to come. I am gonna port the hell out of the turbo, manifold, and stock outlet and run the 94 gas we have here.
Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
Pd1: Great post. Thanks for the information.
BTW, your mod list is about as good as it gets.
FYI, the HKS EVC EZ is not a closed loop boost controller (Non fuzzy logic). It doesnt learn at all. I have seen that problem once before. It was caused with a FP upgraded actuator that was tightened too tightly. The best setting is 4 full turns of the end (from the zero preload point). Try that and see if the boost instability will subside.
The only bad thing is the Magnacore wires. Take them off. They MIGHT not be hurting you right now, but we had a guy with a bad misfire that we chased for about a month. It turned out to be the wires. They dont have a solid connection at the spark plug. The stock wires will work just as well, but have a more solid connection at the spark plug.
You can make more power with a more aggessive cam, but there are always some sacrifices (idle, lower torque etc.) Other than that you will not make anymore power by changing anything in your mods list to another BRAND.
Get it tuned. The tuning will help you out getting your torque up and moving the HP up. You have very good tuning tools at your disposal. Make a before test with your setup and tuning now. Do this on a road that you can repeat the test on after tuning. Same spot on the road, same gear, same start and finish RPM. That will give you a good idea of your improvement.
Brian
BTW, your mod list is about as good as it gets.
FYI, the HKS EVC EZ is not a closed loop boost controller (Non fuzzy logic). It doesnt learn at all. I have seen that problem once before. It was caused with a FP upgraded actuator that was tightened too tightly. The best setting is 4 full turns of the end (from the zero preload point). Try that and see if the boost instability will subside.
The only bad thing is the Magnacore wires. Take them off. They MIGHT not be hurting you right now, but we had a guy with a bad misfire that we chased for about a month. It turned out to be the wires. They dont have a solid connection at the spark plug. The stock wires will work just as well, but have a more solid connection at the spark plug.
You can make more power with a more aggessive cam, but there are always some sacrifices (idle, lower torque etc.) Other than that you will not make anymore power by changing anything in your mods list to another BRAND.
Get it tuned. The tuning will help you out getting your torque up and moving the HP up. You have very good tuning tools at your disposal. Make a before test with your setup and tuning now. Do this on a road that you can repeat the test on after tuning. Same spot on the road, same gear, same start and finish RPM. That will give you a good idea of your improvement.
Brian
I'll go ahead and swap the Magnecor's for stock before the tune tonight, but I really don't buy that they're hurting me at all. I don't have ignition misfire anywhere, and it idles like stock, but I also think the stock wires will work fine in my application.
I have several "before" EvoScan logs already taken from when I had the IX turbo. They should serve as a baseline when compared to the new logs that will be taken tonight on the same road, in the same gear, using the FPGreen turbo.
Kicks *** of you to have posted these, but I'm kinda dissappointed in your results, not that I was expecting that much more outa this given FP's own page shows very lacking results for a IX with bolt ons compared to a stock turbod IX.
Any plans to take it to the track anytime soon and see those numbers? Or are they open where you are?
Someone earlier said something about a 50whp gain over a IX, and I'm wondering where that figure comes from as on FP's blurb about the evogreen they claim a IX with a 280exh cam, 3" tbe (started with just a catback but ended up with dp & tp too in a later paragraph), o2 housing, ecutek reflash, and boost in the 20-24 range made 357hp/337tq.. which seemed pretty close to normal IX dynojet numbers to me, so I was looking through Al's posts trying to find a similiar modded IX on a dynjoet and we have
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=case+study
which is a br stage 1 car on a dynjet posting about the same tq, with about 14whp less. Now given the FP car had a 280 exh cam and o2 over the car in Al's post.. im just wondering where the point of this turbo is short of a ***** out max psi c16 track car who still want stock appearing.
I'm not looking to be a instigator or anything, I just want my moneys worth cause right now im debating going for a 2.3 for my next power mod, since Ive got the rest of the typical mods outa the way and this stock appearing turbo doesnt sound to be that big a gain for the money and I want to keep the stock appearing look.
Any plans to take it to the track anytime soon and see those numbers? Or are they open where you are?
Someone earlier said something about a 50whp gain over a IX, and I'm wondering where that figure comes from as on FP's blurb about the evogreen they claim a IX with a 280exh cam, 3" tbe (started with just a catback but ended up with dp & tp too in a later paragraph), o2 housing, ecutek reflash, and boost in the 20-24 range made 357hp/337tq.. which seemed pretty close to normal IX dynojet numbers to me, so I was looking through Al's posts trying to find a similiar modded IX on a dynjoet and we have
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=case+study
which is a br stage 1 car on a dynjet posting about the same tq, with about 14whp less. Now given the FP car had a 280 exh cam and o2 over the car in Al's post.. im just wondering where the point of this turbo is short of a ***** out max psi c16 track car who still want stock appearing.
I'm not looking to be a instigator or anything, I just want my moneys worth cause right now im debating going for a 2.3 for my next power mod, since Ive got the rest of the typical mods outa the way and this stock appearing turbo doesnt sound to be that big a gain for the money and I want to keep the stock appearing look.


