help! boost trouble leaking?
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help! boost trouble leaking?
Ok I have an evo 9 MR with 12k miles I baught it brand new 5 months ago, yes I like to drive anyway...
Driving to lunch like 10 mins ago the boost was hitting 15 psi and 3rd hit 20, this is weird cause this never happened to me b4. Is it cause I need to let engine warm up?
I mean I just noticed rcently, yes I race 3 times a week and got a custome tune there shouldn't be tappering
I got a forge bov.forge mbc
Fujitsibu dp and catback and a tune putting 304 320 tq.
today is a bit colder should it affect it? I'm worried cause its my DD and don't feel like getting over charged for somthing as simple as le5t engine warm up . Cause I did for about 2 mins then drive it 10 mins later. That's more then enough time
Sorry for random stuff
Any answers will be appricited
Driving to lunch like 10 mins ago the boost was hitting 15 psi and 3rd hit 20, this is weird cause this never happened to me b4. Is it cause I need to let engine warm up?
I mean I just noticed rcently, yes I race 3 times a week and got a custome tune there shouldn't be tappering
I got a forge bov.forge mbc
Fujitsibu dp and catback and a tune putting 304 320 tq.
today is a bit colder should it affect it? I'm worried cause its my DD and don't feel like getting over charged for somthing as simple as le5t engine warm up . Cause I did for about 2 mins then drive it 10 mins later. That's more then enough time
Sorry for random stuff
Any answers will be appricited
2 mins of warmup is not enough time. after 10mins of driving it should be warmed up, but verify that through the oil temp gauge. you will not hit full boost in 2nd gear, only in 3rd,4th and if going fast enough 5th.
The word is "tapering."
The stock turbo will always taper - not sure where you got the idea it wouldn't. The ECU has nothing to do with it - it's a mechanical thing. Do you really have a Mynes flash in Miami? That's kinda weird. Anyway, you have a boost controller, so the ECU has absolutely no effect on your boost or how much it tapers. The flash only controls boost through the ECU if you keep the stock boost system in tact. Either way, neither method can remove boost taper completely, and it should not be of any concern to you.
As for not hitting full boost in 1st gear, that should never happen anyway, because there isn't enough load. The higher the gear, the more load, the more boost you'll generate. Also, you can't just randomly sit for 2 mins and think the car is warmed up. The car should not be idled for extended periods, first of all, and it should not be idled in order to warm it up. Maybe 30 seconds to get the fluids flowing, but you should warm the engine up by DRIVING it out of boost. Once the engine temps reach operating levels, then you can start boosting. PS, the boost cannot be lowered by the ECU due to the engine being cold if you have an MBC, so that part is not even relevant to the situation. However, you still should not be boosting before the car is at full operating temps, else you may damage the motor.
The stock turbo will always taper - not sure where you got the idea it wouldn't. The ECU has nothing to do with it - it's a mechanical thing. Do you really have a Mynes flash in Miami? That's kinda weird. Anyway, you have a boost controller, so the ECU has absolutely no effect on your boost or how much it tapers. The flash only controls boost through the ECU if you keep the stock boost system in tact. Either way, neither method can remove boost taper completely, and it should not be of any concern to you.
As for not hitting full boost in 1st gear, that should never happen anyway, because there isn't enough load. The higher the gear, the more load, the more boost you'll generate. Also, you can't just randomly sit for 2 mins and think the car is warmed up. The car should not be idled for extended periods, first of all, and it should not be idled in order to warm it up. Maybe 30 seconds to get the fluids flowing, but you should warm the engine up by DRIVING it out of boost. Once the engine temps reach operating levels, then you can start boosting. PS, the boost cannot be lowered by the ECU due to the engine being cold if you have an MBC, so that part is not even relevant to the situation. However, you still should not be boosting before the car is at full operating temps, else you may damage the motor.
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Not really - just use common sense. Wait until the water temp gauge is in the middle and stabilized, and wait until your oil temp gauge rises above 50*. If you have the Mitsu sports meter package, then don't you have an MR, or did you buy it separately?
I know, that's why I said "then don't you have an MR"? You failed to put that in your profile - look under your name where it says "Drives: Wicked White Evo iX." It should say "WW IX MR."
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