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Various Intercooler Weights

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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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Various Intercooler Weights

I am sure some of you out there have weighed that shiny new intercooler before throwing it on the car, so let's hear the numbers! I figure this is easier than calling every company and asking them directly.

Is your IC a pig or a lightweight??
Do tube and fin IC's always weigh alot less than bar and plate??
Let's find some answers!

I will update the list as weights are posted. (last updated 9/24/07)

Stock -- 9.5#

AMS -- 20.8#

AMS Race -- ??

ARC 073 -- ??

ARC 073W -- 12.9#

ARC 079 -- ??

Blitz -- ??

Buschur -- 20#

Buschur Race -- 27.5#

eBay AMS copy (XS Power) -- 21.5#

ETS -- 20.8#

Nisei -- 26#

PWR -- 23#

Slowboy -- 20.5#

XS Engineering GTR tube and fin -- 16#

Last edited by EVOlutionary; Sep 24, 2007 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:41 AM
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Buscher race 27lbs

Nesei 26lbs

Stock 11lbs( or very close too)
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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Is it really worth the added weight to upgrade the stock IC.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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That question is exactly why I made this thread. Here are my thoughts so far. They may not be right, so let me know what you think.

Drag racing -- 10HP will help you more than 10 extra # will hurt you. Even on a pretty stock car an IC upgrade is a good idea. With 9-14 seconds of WOT and high boost you don't want heat soak.

Road racing -- it's more a matter of trying to decrease heat soak. You are at WOT alot, for 10-30 minute sessions. Keeping your engine safe and healthy is more important than 10 extra pounds on your car.

Autocross -- handling is #1. NOT adding 10-15 pounds to the very front of your car may be more beneficial than the 10whp you would gain. Don't need to worry too much about heat soak on a 30-60 second run of varying on/off throttle.

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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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ARC's bigger model 12.9lbs
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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OK, we need some more weights to add to the list. Anyone have any more information??

What is the lightest sub-$1000 evo-specific intercooler made??

Which IC's are tube and fin vs. bar and plate? I know some of the Greddy and HKS units are T&F, maybe the PWR also??

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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Road racing -- it's more a matter of trying to decrease heat soak. You are at WOT alot, for 10-30 minute sessions. Keeping your engine safe and healthy is more important than 10 extra pounds on your car.
So, a newb question. Are you saying that the heavier IC is the favorite here?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ONRAILS
ARC's bigger model 12.9lbs

The old arc is baller the new one is a copy of the ams style endtanks.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SWOLN
So, a newb question. Are you saying that the heavier IC is the favorite here?
Not neccesarily the heavier but what can produce the lower ait's + maintain those lower temps

Last edited by lexat20; Jan 24, 2007 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SWOLN
So, a newb question. Are you saying that the heavier IC is the favorite here?
he is saying it all depends on what u are using the car for. also he is trying to figure out the best combo, size and weight he can.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by EVO8904
Is it really worth the added weight to upgrade the stock IC.

When it comes to intercoolers you cant have a 500whp evo and have stock ic Which is only good for 400whp.

If your trying to save some weight on your ic your car better stay under 400whp. You have a get a ic according to your hp. You wouldnt want your car to overheat.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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perrin's IC weighs how much?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jmartinez1170
When it comes to intercoolers you cant have a 500whp evo and have stock ic Which is only good for 400whp.

If your trying to save some weight on your ic your car better stay under 400whp. You have a get a ic according to your hp. You wouldnt want your car to overheat.
I'm sorry, but I disagree. It don't think it really works like that. A 500HP GT37 car and a 500HP 50trim car are 2 different animals as far as intercoolers go.

The turbo on the 500HP GT37 car isn't even trying to blow, probably 22 psi. The air isn't super heated but you are flowing a pretty large amount of air. If you take off the "race" intercooler that is on there and put the stocker back on, you won't necessarily have any problems with heat soak, but you will be creating a bottle neck and you will lose quite a bit of power. Maybe 40whp, just guessing.

The turbo on the 500hp 50trim car is blowing it's guts out, maybe 30psi. It is superheating the air alot, AND you're flowing alot of air. If you take off the "race" intercooler and put the stocker back on then, yes, you will get more heat soak. You will also lose some performance just like with the GT37.

So, IC choice isn't just based on HP, it is a complicated combination of HP, boost, weight, fitment, and intended use. In both the examples above, the larger IC looks like the best choice.

But now, lets say you're runnign a stock style turbo, and you have the choice between running a 12 pound IC and a 27 pound IC, with only a 10-15hp difference, on a short course where heat soak is not an issue, then the decision becomes more difficult. . . .

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Does fitment enter into your equation as well? Are you considering any intercooler whether or not the undertray needs to be modified or eliminated?

Advice is cheap and it's your money, I think that the ARC is the best quality and is apparently the lightest...but it would be too much change ($) for me personally. Do you think that the ARC makes a 10-15 WHP difference vis-a-vis the BR race or the Nissei Competition.

I use the Nissei Street design and am pleased with it's charge cooling capabilities although it is a heavy *****. I am sure it'll be more than adequate with the 20G-LT turbo upgrade.

The way your car is set up for competition....maybe the lightweight ARC is worth the extra cash though. Do you think that plus or minus 10-12 lbs on the front end would make a noticeable difference on a tight course with your car, the way that your suspension is presently set up?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky
Does fitment enter into your equation as well? Are you considering any intercooler whether or not the undertray needs to be modified or eliminated?

Advice is cheap and it's your money, I think that the ARC is the best quality and is apparently the lightest...but it would be too much change ($) for me personally. Do you think that the ARC makes a 10-15 WHP difference vis-a-vis the BR race or the Nissei Competition.

I use the Nissei Street design and am pleased with it's charge cooling capabilities although it is a heavy *****. I am sure it'll be more than adequate with the 20G-LT turbo upgrade.

The way your car is set up for competition....maybe the lightweight ARC is worth the extra cash though. Do you think that plus or minus 10-12 lbs on the front end would make a noticeable difference on a tight course with your car, the way that your suspension is presently set up?
To me, fitment does not matter as far as the undertray goes because I have removed the whole thing and am running a custom splitter/undertray. Fitment DOES matter with regards to needing to remove the front bumper support bar, as that is not allowed in my class.

Now for other folks, for example those running BSP class in autocross, they are not allowed to trim the stock undertray, so fitment would play a huge role in thier decision.

As far as the ARC vs. the Nisei or BR or AMS intercoolers, I think at the HP level I will be at this year (low to mid 400's) that there will not be a significant difference in HP, but it looks like there is a significant weight difference. This is all just my opinion and should only be taken as that - to me 5-10HP is not significant, but 10 # on the nose of my car is.

Do I think a 10# weight savings will net me a measureable gain on the AX course, no. But, that 10#, added to the 30# of AC stuff, plus 10# of IC sprayer bottle, plus 10# of . . . . all added up WILL get me a significant gain. Hopefully! As far as $$, and is it worth it? That is an individual choice. To be THE lightest and THE fastest, it costs $$. There is a place for the $2500 forged superlight wheels, $2100 carbon driveshafts, aluminum roof swaps, etc. They are not for everyone, but for someone trying to get every edge while working within a strict ruleset they certainly are things to be considered.

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