Ebay intercooler testing from the Pros at Buschur Racing....the facts, the truth
#256
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (16)
People cried about testing, it's been done better than any out there and suddenly it's not good enough. I like totally can't understand why it didn't fare as well, I mean it LOOKS GOOD!
#257
Evolving Member
iTrader: (30)
There's someone else on the forums conducting a test at this time, and I don't see why dave would spend time to test someone elses FMIC.
People cried about testing, it's been done better than any out there and suddenly it's not good enough. I like totally can't understand why it didn't fare as well, I mean it LOOKS GOOD!
People cried about testing, it's been done better than any out there and suddenly it's not good enough. I like totally can't understand why it didn't fare as well, I mean it LOOKS GOOD!
#259
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (16)
I can understand testing the e-bay copy vs the race, but supposedly there are numerous unnamed 600+whp hondas out there running them just fine so like they should totally be fine or something like that.
#260
Evolving Member
iTrader: (30)
Yeah, like I said someone else is working on that right now. Should be interesting to see how it turns out.
I can understand testing the e-bay copy vs the race, but supposedly there are numerous unnamed 600+whp hondas out there running them just fine so like they should totally be fine or something like that.
I can understand testing the e-bay copy vs the race, but supposedly there are numerous unnamed 600+whp hondas out there running them just fine so like they should totally be fine or something like that.
#261
#262
Admin Emeritus
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#263
This is Spec for Ebay intercooler Max only 500Hp, I wonder how this thing work below 500Hp compare to AMS?
Length 32"
Height 12.5"
Thickness 3.5"
Inlet 2.5"
Outlet 2.5"
Compress Air Flow Rate <600Cubic Feet/Min, Rated to ~500 Max HP
Working Pressure: 35~40PSI
Pressure Drop 2~5psi@35psi; 0.2~0.5psi@15psi
Hot Air Temperature 32癋~302癋 (0癈~150癈)
Material 100% Aluminum
Design Bar and Plate
Construction Machine Cut and Stamped, Hand Welded
Finish Polished
Net Weight 16 lbs
Works for Lance EVO VIII
Length 32"
Height 12.5"
Thickness 3.5"
Inlet 2.5"
Outlet 2.5"
Compress Air Flow Rate <600Cubic Feet/Min, Rated to ~500 Max HP
Working Pressure: 35~40PSI
Pressure Drop 2~5psi@35psi; 0.2~0.5psi@15psi
Hot Air Temperature 32癋~302癋 (0癈~150癈)
Material 100% Aluminum
Design Bar and Plate
Construction Machine Cut and Stamped, Hand Welded
Finish Polished
Net Weight 16 lbs
Works for Lance EVO VIII
#265
As it has shown before. The Buschur unit does work VERY well. What Dave has shown was an Extreme Test showing what happens with HIGH boost and WHP levels. What he has also taught us is that a FMIC is NOT an FMIC. The innards is what makes dem dohickeys tick!
From what I have seen, the EBAY fmic is manufactured simply by having a wavy metal fin shaved into the Bar and Plate row and then simply snapped shut. From other pictures it has shown that a LOT of these fins simply do not touch the Bar and Plate row and therefore do NOT transfer heat. It is just shoved in there with no thought on heat transfer and proper fitment. The Buschur unit is a Garrett core, works 100% as advertised and has extensive testing smoothing out the balance of pressure drop and cooling. I can also guarantee each and every fin is making contact with the Bar and Plate housing it is in and properly disbursing heat. The fins have also been designed to allow for great heat transfer but not inhibit flow. This is a careful balance of give and take and no matter what you will have some pressure drop.
Ebay simply copies it the best they can and then throws it all together to make a reasonable facsimile. You guys are focusing on the actually product and how it looks. What you need to be doing is focusing on the actual intelligent design of the thing which most of you are not.
From what I have seen, the EBAY fmic is manufactured simply by having a wavy metal fin shaved into the Bar and Plate row and then simply snapped shut. From other pictures it has shown that a LOT of these fins simply do not touch the Bar and Plate row and therefore do NOT transfer heat. It is just shoved in there with no thought on heat transfer and proper fitment. The Buschur unit is a Garrett core, works 100% as advertised and has extensive testing smoothing out the balance of pressure drop and cooling. I can also guarantee each and every fin is making contact with the Bar and Plate housing it is in and properly disbursing heat. The fins have also been designed to allow for great heat transfer but not inhibit flow. This is a careful balance of give and take and no matter what you will have some pressure drop.
Ebay simply copies it the best they can and then throws it all together to make a reasonable facsimile. You guys are focusing on the actually product and how it looks. What you need to be doing is focusing on the actual intelligent design of the thing which most of you are not.
#266
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
I do have a comment to make..... EVERY SINGLE FRICKEN test DB does gets the same negative feedback and that is DAVE'S CAR IS NOT THE AVERAGE EVO.
BR has a large base of employees and customers with the average run of the mill evo..... ECUFlashed cammed EVO with bolt ons ...... Do the flipping test for the majority not the minority.
Honestly I dont care how a 600WHP completely tricked out EVO will do with an EBAY FMIC. Odds are if you are making 600whp you can afford to get the expensive **** right from the start.
If you read the forum there are a handful of richy rich EVO owners but the majority of us have large car payments, high insurance, and a preoccupation for going fast (within reason) on the cheap. For 95% of the people on this forum, spending $800+ on a FMIC is nuckin futs.
BR has a large base of employees and customers with the average run of the mill evo..... ECUFlashed cammed EVO with bolt ons ...... Do the flipping test for the majority not the minority.
Honestly I dont care how a 600WHP completely tricked out EVO will do with an EBAY FMIC. Odds are if you are making 600whp you can afford to get the expensive **** right from the start.
If you read the forum there are a handful of richy rich EVO owners but the majority of us have large car payments, high insurance, and a preoccupation for going fast (within reason) on the cheap. For 95% of the people on this forum, spending $800+ on a FMIC is nuckin futs.
#267
I do have a comment to make..... EVERY SINGLE FRICKEN test DB does gets the same negative feedback and that is DAVE'S CAR IS NOT THE AVERAGE EVO.
BR has a large base of employees and customers with the average run of the mill evo..... ECUFlashed cammed EVO with bolt ons ...... Do the flipping test for the majority not the minority.
Honestly I dont care how a 600WHP completely tricked out EVO will do with an EBAY FMIC. Odds are if you are making 600whp you can afford to get the expensive **** right from the start.
If you read the forum there are a handful of richy rich EVO owners but the majority of us have large car payments, high insurance, and a preoccupation for going fast (within reason) on the cheap. For 95% of the people on this forum, spending $800+ on a FMIC is nuckin futs.
BR has a large base of employees and customers with the average run of the mill evo..... ECUFlashed cammed EVO with bolt ons ...... Do the flipping test for the majority not the minority.
Honestly I dont care how a 600WHP completely tricked out EVO will do with an EBAY FMIC. Odds are if you are making 600whp you can afford to get the expensive **** right from the start.
If you read the forum there are a handful of richy rich EVO owners but the majority of us have large car payments, high insurance, and a preoccupation for going fast (within reason) on the cheap. For 95% of the people on this forum, spending $800+ on a FMIC is nuckin futs.
#268
evilevo,
I think your thinking is backwards. If you are truly on a limited budget and want to modify your car I think it is all the more reason to buy the best part you can the first time. Most guys do NOT stop modifying their cars after Stage 1. They like to think that after Stage 1 that 100 hp gain is going to keep them happy but in reality it will not. So then they continue on. As the HP levels keep growing it is very easy to outgrow poorly engineered parts you have bought. Like buying a 2.5" exhaust in the beginnning and then realizing you really need a 3" a year later. Same goes for FMIC's, injectors, fuel pumps, turbo's etc.
It's much cheaper to build the car RIGHT the FIRST time than the 2nd-3rd-4th time.
I've invested probably $80,000 in my EVO since I bought it, that's if I figure out every part I have bought to put on, test, take off, replace, upgrade etc. I can duplicate the build the first time now for a customer for $26,000.
I think your thinking is backwards. If you are truly on a limited budget and want to modify your car I think it is all the more reason to buy the best part you can the first time. Most guys do NOT stop modifying their cars after Stage 1. They like to think that after Stage 1 that 100 hp gain is going to keep them happy but in reality it will not. So then they continue on. As the HP levels keep growing it is very easy to outgrow poorly engineered parts you have bought. Like buying a 2.5" exhaust in the beginnning and then realizing you really need a 3" a year later. Same goes for FMIC's, injectors, fuel pumps, turbo's etc.
It's much cheaper to build the car RIGHT the FIRST time than the 2nd-3rd-4th time.
I've invested probably $80,000 in my EVO since I bought it, that's if I figure out every part I have bought to put on, test, take off, replace, upgrade etc. I can duplicate the build the first time now for a customer for $26,000.