May as well do the leak down and compression test while having the clutch work done (should only cost about 30 minutes of labor) and while you are at it, make sure the cams have not slipped a tooth.

Also, I think TTP would agree, not all cars are equal. Esp when dealing with the stock ecu, you cannot always ring the same amount of power out of similarly prepped cars. You can get close, but when dealing with the stock knock sensor you have to tune to keep it happy.

Check the basics. I think you will need a clutch, but check the simple stuff before you dump money into something that may not be the problem.

 

My evo Ix made 370whp and 301trq !!! on 91 oct. the blades do not spin smoothly on my turbo; in comparison to a legit Garret turbo..

 

Man, I guess garrett is the only legit company that makes turbos!! HAHA. Have you ever heard of precision buddy? F@ck, Im using a damn rnr 35r precision housing and made 540whp on pump and meth.

And why do your blade not spin smoothly?

--Josh

 

+1 ^^^^

Why don't your blades spine smoothly?? How do you know you have a problem with your blades??

 

The turbo is a precision turbo.. Are both your coldside and hotside made by Precision too? They spin as smoothly as a stock turbo but, not like a dual bb turbo

 

yup, i have never side by side compared them.

--Josh

 

I'm sure those HKS 272's aren't helping much either.

With a 2.0/35r you need a more aggressive cam, those HKS 272's are starting to fall off as the turbo is just getting started.

 

here mine, rnr-35r, bc 272s, tbe, hks rs intake, 32 psi with c16 it put down 536whp and 443 tq. Your number is definitely low since you have very similar mods to mine. Check your engine and keep us updated. See the dyno chart below for your reference.

 

Doing a compression test tomorrow. But G20 was that on a stock clutch? I think that is the key here....

 

Well if you mean by hand I would imagine that there needs to be oil in the center cartridge... Also my blads spin freely... I can hear the turbo blades still spinning once the car is shut off after it has been idling so they aren't going that fast. There were too many variables here to cause these numbers. 1) Stock clutch, 2) Messed up knock filters. I have figured it like this..... My theory on the clutch is as follows.... The stock clutch is only good for a percentage of the power I have.... If you do the math the 370WHP pump gas run is basically 30-40WHP off from the norm. The race gas percentage gets wider as there is more boost more power race gas number was 453WHP the norm is what lets say 510WHP it is about 50-60WHP off.... So in my theory my clutch only holds sat 80-90% of what the engine is actually putting out. These numbers are not exact but I think you get my idea.

 

I noticed on your sheet the Air temp was 79 degrees.... What would it matter that mine says 97 degrees?

 

Guys have had a lot of power on the stock clutch and it was slipping you should realize it.

Did you check for boost leaks? Maybe the FMIC has a pinhole leak?

 

I have not checked for boost cleaks.... But my AFR is very solid under boost so I do not think it is that.

 

Your graph is decieivng for a second i thought you made almost the same tq as hp.

 

Forgot to mention that I'm on Exedy twin. Yeah! the stock would likely gone once above 350 whp with some driving.