Your car should be making alot more power something isnt right..

 

well I changed the clutch today lets see....

 

First of all I'd go with 1000cc intrs. What do you have to help your spark? A good friend of mine ran out o injtr at 28 psi. wih a 35R.

 

Me personally I don't like to see tuners relying on stock ecu knock control.

If its messed up how do u know if the car is knocking or not?

 

It would bug me as well, its true you should be over 400+ on pump at least. people make usually 410+425 in that range. Cant wait to slap my custom 35r and see what it does, i got same mods as you, accept my ACT hd, will fail if i launch the car couple of times. ahhh never ends $$$

 

Data logs might be a huge help here...

I find that when something is amiss in my car, it helps to go out on a normal drive and just data log your ride. Do a couple part throttle pulls, a few 100%'s, and just cruise around. After looking at the data, and really analyzing it, you can find out a ton of information.

You can actually detect a slipping clutch that way, but I see you changed it, so that might not be an issue here now.

If you can get a data log like that, post it up in the ECUFlash forum, there is a few people that would be happy to look at it and give you some good input on it.

I can actually detect boost leaks pretty good using my data logs now as well.

 

Why would you say this? The stock knock control is actually very good.

 

I think the stock knock control system is very good... but relying solely on it I think is unprofessional. I wouldn't let anyone touch my car without a pair of det cans.

Without knowing what the OP and TTP mean by "bad knock filters"... I presume this effects how the ECU reports what is and is not knock. So in a situation like this, you could care less if you have this problem because you have a good pair of det cans so you know exactly when the car is and is not knocking.

 

didnt read the whole thread, but ar ratio,cams, how high you revved it, which 35r you have (they are NOT all equal), agressiveness of the tune, dyno etc... will all play a major roll on how much power you make at ~30psi take it to a track and see what it does, i never bothered to care too much about hp/tq numbers.

 

Not trying to start an argument, but do you realize how many people are successfully tuning their cars without det cans? Myself personally, and my car have never had anyone else touch it, and I won't let someone or myself hook up det cans to it. I simply think they are not of any value when I am tuning my car. Maybe it's just me though.

I am only trying to point out that there are tons of people now, with the development of ECUFlash, successfully tuning their cars without det cans using the stock knock control, and nobody has really seen a documented case where the stock knock control was inadequate.

Like I said before, I am only pointing this out, don't want to start an argument.

 

I also feel that you have to tune to keep the knock sensor happy. With that being said the car will not allow you to hurt the engine without it trying to fight your tuning parameters.

I have an RNR turbo kit (Precision 35R .70AR)yah... not the best but I have seen many producing good numbers much better then mine. The car was reved to 8K, 272 cams, tune was safe but aggressive, DynoJet dyno. I'm not looking for excuses I am just trying to trouble shoot why I am about 50WHP off target. Can we please get the discussion back on track and drop the whole DET Can debate. Compression looks good 158-160 across the board. During the tune I believe one of the vac lines was off the throttle body as pictured in the pic of the biss screw. I also am using a larger turbo that isn't being pushed to the max so unless I had a huge leak I do not think it would produce 50WHP loss of power. I have heard of DSM guys using weak DV springs to bleed of boost so the turbo didn't surge. Correct me if I am wrong but larger turbos can afford semi leaks because even at 23-24psi I am not in the turbos efficient range. On race gas I am at about 70% duty cycle around 60% on pump gas... so plenty of injector left. I can only think that I have a particularly weak engine...

 

thehitman

Don't give up on your engine yet, take it one step at a time.

Put some stop n go miles on the clutch, zip tie all vaccum lines including the two you showed at the TB (they will cause issues) Do a boost leak test and get a can of VP C-16 empty out your gas tank fill it up, strap it on the same dyno and get your tuner to work!

Let us know how that goes

Good Luck!