OK I need to know at this point are head studs a waste now? I have all the bolt ons and installing cams. My cams are going in on Tuesday and the shop will not charge more for the head stud install cause there already in there so its just the cost of the studs. I am not running alky and am on the stock turbo. I do boost around 24-24.5 psi. I am planning on doing a turbo but not in the near future. I have talked to a few people that I value there opinion. They say that there is no need on the stock turbo as long as your tune is on point and they ran 28psi last season with the stock head studs with no issues after being throughly expected

I understand that leaks are common when head studs are installed so thats my only real concern and I could save myself $100. Also I understand that it is a cheap safety net. The shop I am going to specializes in evos so no concern there. Any input would be great for people.

 

I have a cammed, bolt-on IX spiking to 24psi on pump 93 with no issues. I have opted not to go with headstuds - IMHO, I feel this is an Evo myth carried over from the DSM days... (Disclaimer --- I am not in any way a 4g63 guru)

I lump headstuds in with jet-hot exhaust coating and $200 mini-battery kits...


With that being said, FLAME SUIT --- ON!!!!

 

I recommend leaving the stockers in until your headgasket pops. To properly install better studs, you need to remove the old headgasket anyways. The one by one method (despite what many shops will tell you) is not the correct way to install studs. To properly install the studs you should:

1.) remove head
2.) measure for warpness
3.) re-surface deck surface (if neccessary)
4.) re-install head with new headgasket and ARP studs.

Following these steps will ensure that you will have no oil or coolant leaks. I have personally seen many Evo's that devloped leaks after the stud install because of an improper install. They should rename the one by one method to the "half assed" method.

 

better safe than sorry

 

^^^^ Agreed, My friend had them come loose 3x's when done the other way. If you do do it, check em an hour then a week then a month... good luck!

 

Not needed and the 1x1 method is responsible for many weeping head gaskets that drip oil down the back of your engine. How many stories have you seen about stretched head bolts? Not many because it almost never happens.

 

Take some advice from somebody who took bad advice when I was in your exact position about a year ago. I opted to save $100 because of the kind of comments I'm reading in here now. Everybody has a right to their own opinion so I'll give you mine. Things change. You might say stock turbo, pump gas and daily driver now. In 6 months that might change into EvoGreen, 100 octane and weekend track car. Better safe than sorry. Just do the head studs. That's honestly a no-brainer if your tuner shop has done the installation on an Evo before. However I would go one further. Get yourself some JAM no-tick lifters too while the head is open and they're gonna be in there anyways. Eventually aftermarket cams will cause lifter tick. The ticking sound registers at the knock sensor and the ECU will pull timing. It's a form of false knock and it will rob you of power. My advice to you is do it right and do it once.

https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/h...fm?sectionId=2

 

i am kinda in the same dilemma as you right now. I have about 1300 saved for the installation of my meth kit, fuel pump and my head studs. the most expensive part is the head stead job 620 bucks. David Buschur uses the 1x1 method cause I called them today and asked about it and they swear to it that it works fine. I beleive them and told the shop that this is the way I want it doen and it will save me almost 300 bucks. So now with that extra 300 I can do something else with my money.

 

Had my ARP head studs installed by CBRD. They told me they had to take off the head to install. Had my S1's installed at the same visit. Figure it is worth while.

Jason

 

Thats confusing...maybe I am not reading it right? Is the head stud job 620$ with the one by one method? So that means 920$ with taking off the head? Thats an expensive shop...When I had them installed my tech said that the usual 1by1 method is what causes leaks...he did mine in some other pattern, and I don't have any leaks and run 30-32psi daily for about 4months/5000miles. I would get them IMO.

 

don't do it...

 

it should cost around $200 including parts and labor. Why should he not install head studs?

 

cause its a fallacy from the older gen dsms...95% of issues are from cars with arp headstuds...look at how many near stock evo9s are pushing 25psi + without a single issue...if you don't install them the right way don't do them at all...

 

The correct install would be removing the head?

 

correct...