View Poll Results: Head studs yay or nay
Get them. Cheap safety net
116
59.18%
No need at this point. Keep the extra money
80
40.82%
Voters: 196. You may not vote on this poll
Honestly heads studs or not
Feb 5, 2008, 12:39 AM
#106
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Funny to see this thread resurrected, but I run 25 psi no knock on pump. 
I say its a waste of time when doing just cams unless you really have the extra money burning a whole in your pocket. If you have the time and money then do it. 
If your tune is on then its on, but if you dont trust your tuner, then get them.
I say its a waste of time when doing just cams unless you really have the extra money burning a whole in your pocket. If you have the time and money then do it. If your tune is on then its on, but if you dont trust your tuner, then get them.
Jun 13, 2009, 05:06 PM
#107
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I have ran 29-31 psi daily for three years or 45,000 miles on stock headgasket and stock headstuds. This was e85 the whole time, not pump gas but I thought the results would be helpful.
Jun 13, 2009, 06:13 PM
#108
Im at this point now. More like past it. I recently installed a meth kit and having been pushing the boost lately to 28-30psi on a ported 9 turbo on my 8.
My tune has been knock free the whole time but all of a sudden its started to knock. Along with that my car has been over heating. My car only 43k on it so I don't think its the thermostat. Its fine for a while then all of a sudden in traffic it will start to over heat like a air pocket is in there.
So at school(tech school) I flushed my radiator system. Even doing the flush it still over heating on me. I think the car is starting to push coolant into the cylinder's under WOT causing the knock.
Since coming to that conclusion I have been taking it easy on it until I buy new head studs and head gasket.
What do you guy's think ?
My tune has been knock free the whole time but all of a sudden its started to knock. Along with that my car has been over heating. My car only 43k on it so I don't think its the thermostat. Its fine for a while then all of a sudden in traffic it will start to over heat like a air pocket is in there.
So at school(tech school) I flushed my radiator system. Even doing the flush it still over heating on me. I think the car is starting to push coolant into the cylinder's under WOT causing the knock.
Since coming to that conclusion I have been taking it easy on it until I buy new head studs and head gasket.
What do you guy's think ?
Jun 14, 2009, 09:42 AM
#110
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Im at this point now. More like past it. I recently installed a meth kit and having been pushing the boost lately to 28-30psi on a ported 9 turbo on my 8.
My tune has been knock free the whole time but all of a sudden its started to knock. Along with that my car has been over heating. My car only 43k on it so I don't think its the thermostat. Its fine for a while then all of a sudden in traffic it will start to over heat like a air pocket is in there.
So at school(tech school) I flushed my radiator system. Even doing the flush it still over heating on me. I think the car is starting to push coolant into the cylinder's under WOT causing the knock.
Since coming to that conclusion I have been taking it easy on it until I buy new head studs and head gasket.
What do you guy's think ?
My tune has been knock free the whole time but all of a sudden its started to knock. Along with that my car has been over heating. My car only 43k on it so I don't think its the thermostat. Its fine for a while then all of a sudden in traffic it will start to over heat like a air pocket is in there.
So at school(tech school) I flushed my radiator system. Even doing the flush it still over heating on me. I think the car is starting to push coolant into the cylinder's under WOT causing the knock.
Since coming to that conclusion I have been taking it easy on it until I buy new head studs and head gasket.
What do you guy's think ?
Do you ever notice coolant leaking from the overflow?
Jun 14, 2009, 01:22 PM
#112
I have noticed that my over flow filling up before. I made sure I bought a new radiator cap so I would cover my bases.
Still having cooling issues though. I not sure if I want to go out and do any pulls. I really have been babying it. I ordered new head studs, head gasket, and thermostat from MAP should be here tuesday.
Ive been noticing now that my car smells like its burning coolant now nevermind. I think if anything its getting worse so Im trying to not drive it.
Still having cooling issues though. I not sure if I want to go out and do any pulls. I really have been babying it. I ordered new head studs, head gasket, and thermostat from MAP should be here tuesday.
Ive been noticing now that my car smells like its burning coolant now nevermind. I think if anything its getting worse so Im trying to not drive it.
Last edited by Evo8Emperor; Jun 14, 2009 at 01:31 PM.
Jun 14, 2009, 04:58 PM
#113
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You could make an argument that aftermarket headstuds might be overkill but for only $100 who really wins this argument. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 
Jun 18, 2009, 05:06 PM
#115
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I was against headstuds and rodbolts on a bone stock motor years ago. I'm still against it. I'm also not a fan of the lower grade ARP fasteners either. If your going to "upgrade" then freking upgrade. Furthermore if you lift a stock evo head call yourself lucky that you didn't push the pistons. That is my experience/opinion. If you want a proper headstud look at the L1 material from ARP or the A1 fasteners. Still, evo heads are solid. They don't flex like the heads of the past. If you lift a 7 bolt head you need to check what the f*** it is you think your doing.
EDIT:
Many of my friends have pulled big no no's on stock virgin motors and these suckers take it.
EDIT:
Many of my friends have pulled big no no's on stock virgin motors and these suckers take it.
Jun 18, 2009, 07:00 PM
#116
I was against headstuds and rodbolts on a bone stock motor years ago. I'm still against it. I'm also not a fan of the lower grade ARP fasteners either. If your going to "upgrade" then freking upgrade. Furthermore if you lift a stock evo head call yourself lucky that you didn't push the pistons. That is my experience/opinion. If you want a proper headstud look at the L1 material from ARP or the A1 fasteners. Still, evo heads are solid. They don't flex like the heads of the past. If you lift a 7 bolt head you need to check what the f*** it is you think your doing.
EDIT:
Many of my friends have pulled big no no's on stock virgin motors and these suckers take it.
EDIT:
Many of my friends have pulled big no no's on stock virgin motors and these suckers take it.
Oct 27, 2009, 11:55 AM
#119
When installing head studs, I see no reason to physically remove the head. One can release one bolt at a time (starting from the outside), and replace each with the stud shaft so the head stays aligned. When all bolts have been removed and all studs are in place, the nuts can be torqued in proper sequence.
I've got just over 100k miles on my evo, and I plan on replacing my head studs this way in a couple of weeks. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
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