View Poll Results: Head studs yay or nay
Get them. Cheap safety net
116
59.18%
No need at this point. Keep the extra money
80
40.82%
Voters: 196. You may not vote on this poll
Honestly heads studs or not
I'd still do them. Safety net reasoning.
And yes, I'm posting in an old thread:
I will be buying head studs while I have my engine torn down as well. However, I wouldn't buy studs just for the sake of buying them - I'd only really do the studs if you're going to be doing something else and have the engine down anyways. Otherwise, what's the point of putting studs in when you arn't doing anything to the engine anyways?
And yes, I'm posting in an old thread:
I will be buying head studs while I have my engine torn down as well. However, I wouldn't buy studs just for the sake of buying them - I'd only really do the studs if you're going to be doing something else and have the engine down anyways. Otherwise, what's the point of putting studs in when you arn't doing anything to the engine anyways?
Cylinder pressure is more or less a function of torque and load. A motor making 500 ft/lbs in 4th or 5th gear will test the fatigue limits head fasteners more thoroughly than anything.
The factory head bolts are probably like the factory rod bolts - less likely to be as reliable as the best aftermarket options, but reliable enough not to sweat it.
Personally speaking, I prefer studs to bolts everywhere they are applicable - primarily due to ease of service.
When installing head studs, I see no reason to physically remove the head. One can release one bolt at a time (starting from the outside), and replace each with the stud shaft so the head stays aligned. When all bolts have been removed and all studs are in place, the nuts can be torqued in proper sequence.
The factory head bolts are probably like the factory rod bolts - less likely to be as reliable as the best aftermarket options, but reliable enough not to sweat it.
Personally speaking, I prefer studs to bolts everywhere they are applicable - primarily due to ease of service.
When installing head studs, I see no reason to physically remove the head. One can release one bolt at a time (starting from the outside), and replace each with the stud shaft so the head stays aligned. When all bolts have been removed and all studs are in place, the nuts can be torqued in proper sequence.
Replace torque to yield studs with ARP if you plan on detonating your engine constantly. If you dont plan on detonating and boost 12psi or 32 psi the cyl head pressure will be not much different and won't need ARP.
Don't get discouraged, this is just my opinion
Don't get discouraged, this is just my opinion
Is everyone pretty much still wishy-washy on the headstuds? Im getting some cams installed at the end of the month, so I'm on the fence. Right now, I'm thinking yes.
i say if ur gonna throw in cams, u might as well throw in the head studs especially in case u rev over 7800rpm due to a missed shift or something. + alot of ppl put cams in their car & don't do it right. if u buy cams don't forget the cam gears, springs, retainers, valve guides, stronger timing belt, & obviously the head studs & a retune...
https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/h...fm?sectionId=2
Headstuds and forged parts if you plan to push the engine into detonation or just want added protection for some reason. If the car isn't knocking no matter how hard your pushing it, and peak cyl pressure occurs when the piston is moving in the correct direction (down
) because it's timed and fueled right, then replacing the headstuds might actually create a problem
) because it's timed and fueled right, then replacing the headstuds might actually create a problem