Do them the 1x1 way and let me know how it goes.Im also debating this or not.HKS 272's sitting here.Waiting on cash for tune and non-tick lifters.Not sure about the ARP HS though.All these know-it-alls are making my cheap side come out.I guess Id really feel better if I had them installed the "correct" way.

 

LOL. Well it sounds like you get it at least. I wish I had half your sense when I went through the process last year. Save your cash up a little more, get cam gears too, and do everything at once and then fuggetaboutit.

 

meh,

not a big fan of the 1x1 way...

AT ALL

cb

 

if the head is coming off anyway use studs on the reinstall, if it isn't don't bother.

This is the first I've heard of a 1x1 stud install and honestly I amazed that someone would do such a thing.

 

1X1 is not the optimum way to do it, but it does work if done correctly.

1. wait til car completely cools, do 1x1 starting from inside out, going back and forth in an X formation

2. drive car for a few days mildly boosting

3. retorque them



If they're done that way, there shouldnt be any leaks. And I think you have a better chance doing that and not blowing a headgasket them running stock bolts on methanol. YES the older dsm's popped HG's easier then evos, but I've seen evos blow HG's before in the high 20's. For 95$ shipped (ARP STUDS FROM US, ) you cant go wrong, its just too cheap to not do it.

 

I guess it erks me that this 1x1 method question keeps popping up. Mostly because everytime it does there are always those who think the 1x1 method is not a good idea. If you ask me its the stupidest thing in the world to say the head must come off to install studs. Thats like saying you cant retorque head studs. There is absolutely no problem with retorquing studs. Since retorquing studs requires loosening the torque on the studs first. Then how can it possible be a problem swapping studs while the studs are loose?

 

One question: How many people that are posting are actually mechanics or even have FIRST hand knowledge?

Since someone already stated that AMS and BR both do it this way--I would say that both those shops have an skill/experience level that far surpasses just about everyone that's posted combined. Therefore, instead of asking a bunch of parrots on a forum...get your information from a reputable source....call AMS and/or BR.

From the MECHANICS I've talked to:

Both methods work. Pulling the head is the prescribed "correct" method. The 1x1 method can be done safely and without issue by letting the car fully cool (24+ hours), making sure to do them in sequence, and making sure to re-torque them after one heat cycle. Checking them again after a few heat cycles is even better.

 

I did mine and i went ahead and replaced the headgasket myself

 

please pardon my stupidity, can someone please describe briefly "pulling the head" just want to get an idea of what that entails exactly. Not that I would be doing it myself just some knowledge i'd like to gain, thanks

 

It is definitely a peace of mind to have the head studs in. But if you do it, do it the right way. By that I mean, remove the head, replace the HG, check the head and the block for warp.

 

Guess they are only at the top of THE quickest and the fastest then... turning out the largest groups of the quickest and the fastest customer's Evos too... Wait, they also offer some of the most reliable engine packages also. Hmmm, guess they don't know much.

I used to recommend the 1x1 method myself. However, I quit solely because people keep f...ing up the install. Most of the people wanting to install headstuds really don't need them anyway.

 

I never had a problem doing it one by one.

 

So what is the correct 1x1 method? Has anyone done a write up? I read thru this manual, http://www.4g63t.net...11B.pdf, and on page 41 it explains the torque sequence. Is that the correct way (the only thing would be doing it 1x1, not "loosen all bolts fully in the reverse order of tightening")?

Is the problem people are having because they just tighten them to 58 ft-lbs then call it a day?

 

No need for studs at that boost level.

No need to remove the head for stud install.

Many have boosted 30+ psi on stock head bolts with no ill effects.

 

Maybe up and down a 1/4 mile track every other weekend during the summer or for a few WOT runs with their friends in the car on a Saturday night. Certainly not for 45 minutes straight on a closed road course though. In my opinion that's the only place where these cars exploits can be fully realized. Don't take anything down the road off the table. Get it done and forget about it. Nothing to lose and everything to gain IMO.