Tre stage 3 rebuild
brand new transfercase rebuilt by tre
stock rear diff

i am wondering what fluids to put in this.

 

Why dont you just ask TRE? They will know best.

 

i cant get ahold of jon and i wasjust wondering if someone new, its just a gl5 something i think redline shock proof maybe?

 

use the stock fluids diaqueen for the rear and the transfer case and you can use pennzoil synchromesh for the tranny

 

mtx- Penz Synchomesh
tc- Redline heavy duty
rear diff- Redline heavy duty (or) M1

 

DO NOT USE REDLINE FLUIDS IN TRANSFER CASE AND REAR

put in
diaqueen stock fluids in transfercase and rear only!!
i had redline in my transfercase and it started making alot of noise..so i went back to diaqeen and it went away

 

Well maybe it's about time I offer up some more input regarding what "TRE" recommends....


TRE recommends using GL-4 spec transmission oil in the Mitsubishi EVOLUTION 5 SPEED manual transmissions. This oil offers proper protection for the gears and bearings against wear out. If you have 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION in your EVO, read your owners manual to discover what Mitsubishi specifies….or read every single thread regarding which oil to use and then make up your own mind.

Redline MTL or MT-90 have proven themselves as a good oil for those who want to shift fast, yet are also looking for long service life from their transmission. I harbor concerns about using Redline Shockproof oil inside manual transmissions. It has been found that the heavy paraffin particles that are in the Redline Shockproof oil are quickly centrifuged out of the oil, building up inside of critical areas in the transmission. After several oil changes, using SHOCKPROOF, this build up may block of the oiling passages inside the gearshafts that lubricate the needle bearings, therefore we do not suggest using Shockproof in the transmission. I have heard of many reports that this is the magic oil to use, maybe it is, but I have genuine concern about paraffin build-up over long term use and only time will tell if this a legitimate issue.

However, REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY does seem to work very well in the transfer case. The Muellerized/Jordan EVO is probably the most road raced EVO in the states and they are still using the same transfer case and it is filled with REDLINE SHOCKPROOF….and receives proper oil change intervals. If you road race, inspect the oils after every race and change the oils if they are discolored or smell bad. If it offers race car performance, it requires race car maintenance.

A word about Synchromesh/shift type oils. It has been found that the Synchromesh/shift type oils can improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers, allowing for faster shifts at higher rpms. However, this oil may not have enough film strength to ensure the longest gear and bearing life in a high engine torque application. If you are not making more than 350ft.lbs and concerned only with shifting fast at high rpms you may want to use the “Synchromesh /shift” type oils but change it much more frequently. DO NOT USE Synchromesh/shift type oils in the transfer case or rear end because this oil doesn’t have the correct film strength to adequately lubricate hypoid gears. Again, read every single thread regarding which oil to use and then make up your own mind.

A short word about transmission gears. Transmission gears are exceptionally hard and generally have a hardness of 58-62HRC. It is because of their hardness they take quite a while to fully bed-in together before ultimate power handling capabilities can be obtained. Transmission gears can take as many as 5,000 miles to fully wear themselves in allowing for full contact and the most strength. It is wise to let the transmission gears bed-in before pushing the gears to their material limits. Generally I see wear on 3rd & 4th gears above the DPC of the gear and this in an indication that the teeth are being overloaded with torque… so choose your clutch wisely and understand that your fancy no-lift shifts will shorten the life of various parts.

A word about synchronizers. By design, synchronizers will block the driver from completing their shift into any gear, and for that matter, even shifting into a gear in the first place if the speed of the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components doesn’t match the speed of the gear they are shifting into. It is crucial that your clutch is operating properly, with sufficient release to allow the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components to be “free” of the engine’s rotating speed thus allowing them to slow down and match the speed of the gear you are shifting into. The synchro is NOT designed or capable of dealing with a clutch that doesn’t have enough release. If you are having trouble getting into any gears while the car is running or are experiencing blocking or “notchy” shifting; you must check your clutch to make sure that you have it properly adjusted or you will cause damage to the synchronizers and ultimately to lots of parts. It is sole responsibility of the driver or installer to make sure that the clutch is properly adjusted so that is has sufficient release to allow the synchros to do their job without the clutch disc dragging on the flywheel/pressure plate assembly or poor shift quality and premature synchro failure will occur.

Well there is my input on this subject; take it or leave it and sorry if I might have highjacked this thread.

Thanks for the space.

Jon@TRE

 

Jon's post should now be a sticky to end all these threads!!!!!!

 

thank you john,

so its.....

mtl or mt 90 in the tranny
shock proof in the transfercase
shock proof in the rear diff

 

So i say for the transfer case we use REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY....