The official hyundai 2.4L G4JS (4G64) thread
Mar 5, 2012, 05:35 PM
#31
I'm bumping this because I have some sonata/kia head specific questions about the valvetrain.
I read that the valvetrain isn't as strong as the stock 4g63's. From you guys that have played with these heads, is this true?
I landed a set of 272's cheap and some OEM springs as well. I plan on using the factory Hyundai retainers (assuming they fit the Evo springs... which i see no reason why they shouldn't).
What about the rockers and lash adjusters?
Sorry to bump an old thread, didn't want to make a new one about old ****.
I read that the valvetrain isn't as strong as the stock 4g63's. From you guys that have played with these heads, is this true?
I landed a set of 272's cheap and some OEM springs as well. I plan on using the factory Hyundai retainers (assuming they fit the Evo springs... which i see no reason why they shouldn't).
What about the rockers and lash adjusters?
Sorry to bump an old thread, didn't want to make a new one about old ****.
Not sure if he completed it. In MY case, I'm swapping the head with my 64 head. My block is already built.
I don't like the block being different. Dipstick in front, who knows about the bottom end pulleys and gears lining up. 4g64 blocks are cheap as **** anyhow.
I love the idea of having another source for heads. Although I'm not sure why everybody seems to think the head is weaker.
I mean, regardless of whether the car is boosted or not, in the factory Hyundai, the car can most certainly rev to at least 7k. Why would it be any weaker when a turbo is hanging off of it. I don't think it matters, but then again, OEM 63 springs are a few bucks, so why test it lol.
I DID read on c3g that one of our members had an issue with the lash adjusters "locking up" and he destroyed some valves bc of it. Not sure what he was revving to though.
I don't like the block being different. Dipstick in front, who knows about the bottom end pulleys and gears lining up. 4g64 blocks are cheap as **** anyhow.
I love the idea of having another source for heads. Although I'm not sure why everybody seems to think the head is weaker.
I mean, regardless of whether the car is boosted or not, in the factory Hyundai, the car can most certainly rev to at least 7k. Why would it be any weaker when a turbo is hanging off of it. I don't think it matters, but then again, OEM 63 springs are a few bucks, so why test it lol.
I DID read on c3g that one of our members had an issue with the lash adjusters "locking up" and he destroyed some valves bc of it. Not sure what he was revving to though.
And although the block is diffrent it works out fine. The dipstick is in the front but clears the evo turbo setup with no issues. The timing and drive belts are diffrent but the only downfall fall and fix.to that is.simply using G4JS cam gears bolted to any Evo or KIA Cam.
The head being weeker, its total bull. If anything the head is better then the EVO head. I talked about it briefly on my thread. Much like a 1G Neon head is beter then a SRt-4 turbo head, NA motors require more love to make power. From a DOHC head or 2.4L block stand point the G4JS even has a few advantages.
As for the rev limit I totally agree. Theres no differance in limitations between the two heads. It all comes down to what valve train your running. Stock G4JS stuff in ether head and I would say 7k and a stock cam to be safe, stock EVO valve train and your looking at your normal 7.6-8k and the mild 274 cams, anything at or past a mild 274 and you need upgraded aftermarket stuff.
Mar 5, 2012, 06:33 PM
#32
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how did you managed to install the turbo on hyundai block. The starter seems to be on the way. I tried to fit stock evo exhaust manifold with fp red turbo but the starter is on the way and it was just impossible to fit it.
Mar 8, 2012, 01:15 PM
#34
Look into what some of the 3g eclipse guys have done and if you need a set of spacers I have a set I can sell you. PM me.
Yes the retainers are Ti. If your able to get a set, I would recomend them.
Mar 15, 2012, 09:44 AM
#35
bump for this thread. i just received the G4JS (4G64) BARE BLOCK ONLY today. i was wondering if anyone can guide me. i am looking to swap my 4g63 crank and 4g63 head onto this block to make it a destroked 2.1L. can i get any guidance on what i would need in order to make this work !!! please, anyone as im trying to get this build done for this race season!!! 
Last edited by mpevo8; Mar 15, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
Mar 29, 2012, 01:14 AM
#36
Well, just so you know I am the only person who has used a G4JS block and lived to tell about it so you had beter hope I don't disappear.
As for destroking this block, throw your crank in it and go with your standard 4G64 destroke kit. You wont have any issues there. Balance shaft kit and all that works fine.
Now to the block its self and making it work for you. First of all the major thing you need to know is that the front case between these two blocla is diffrent and becouse of it there may be some head aches if your trying to do this from a bare block.
Step 1: While you have the block sitting there you should test to see if a 63/64 front case cover will bolt and line up with the G4JS block. I did not test it and theres a 50/50 chance it might. If it does then you can simply swap in the EVO motor mount, the front case cover and everything attached, evo cam gears and call it a day. But if it does not then your off to step 2.
Step 2: Your gonna need to get a hold of a few things, JS front case cover and everything attached to include gears, modded EVO 8 motor mount, JS cam gears, JS timing belts, JS assec belt, JS alternator and bracket, Js power steering pump with a modded bracket, and a oil pan option.
Step 3: EVO 8 motor mount for an EVO shell or 4G64 motor mount for an eclipse, lancer, mirage, galant and ect. The mount will need to be ground down in a few places. It's a simple task and I have.pictures that i can post up later.
Step 4: Modding the JS power steering bracket to clear the Mitsubishi motor mount that blocks some of the holes on the JS front face cover. It's a little odd and ill have to post some pics. So just know that it doesnt bolt right up and will need some cut and grinding done.
Step 5: Finding an oil pan... If you were able to use a mitsubishi front case cover then you can use a stock evo 8 oil pan and a modified pick up tube and an evo splash shield. Cut the bracket off the pick up tube and bent it slightly downward and your set. Just don't bend it while installed, remove it from the block first or yoh will break your front case cover like i did. Then with the splash shield you will need to cut a small slot in it with some metal sheers and your set. If your using the JS front case then you need all of the previous stuff plus you will need to mod the oil pan slightly. Flaten one side, weld up a hole and drill a new hole slighty off where the old one was. I have pics of this also. You can how ever just use a two piece JS oil pan, dump, and splash shield if you weld your oil return fitting into it. (i have all of the JS stuff from my motor and will sell it if you pm me.)
Added notes... The dip stick will clear so don't worry, and you can use 63 balance.shaft delete kit. Also be sure to use evo knock sensor and temp sensors. Can also use evo 8 head gasket and head studs. The crank sensor and crank sensor reluctor plate can be used off the 63/64 or JS motors.
As for destroking this block, throw your crank in it and go with your standard 4G64 destroke kit. You wont have any issues there. Balance shaft kit and all that works fine.
Now to the block its self and making it work for you. First of all the major thing you need to know is that the front case between these two blocla is diffrent and becouse of it there may be some head aches if your trying to do this from a bare block.
Step 1: While you have the block sitting there you should test to see if a 63/64 front case cover will bolt and line up with the G4JS block. I did not test it and theres a 50/50 chance it might. If it does then you can simply swap in the EVO motor mount, the front case cover and everything attached, evo cam gears and call it a day. But if it does not then your off to step 2.
Step 2: Your gonna need to get a hold of a few things, JS front case cover and everything attached to include gears, modded EVO 8 motor mount, JS cam gears, JS timing belts, JS assec belt, JS alternator and bracket, Js power steering pump with a modded bracket, and a oil pan option.
Step 3: EVO 8 motor mount for an EVO shell or 4G64 motor mount for an eclipse, lancer, mirage, galant and ect. The mount will need to be ground down in a few places. It's a simple task and I have.pictures that i can post up later.
Step 4: Modding the JS power steering bracket to clear the Mitsubishi motor mount that blocks some of the holes on the JS front face cover. It's a little odd and ill have to post some pics. So just know that it doesnt bolt right up and will need some cut and grinding done.
Step 5: Finding an oil pan... If you were able to use a mitsubishi front case cover then you can use a stock evo 8 oil pan and a modified pick up tube and an evo splash shield. Cut the bracket off the pick up tube and bent it slightly downward and your set. Just don't bend it while installed, remove it from the block first or yoh will break your front case cover like i did. Then with the splash shield you will need to cut a small slot in it with some metal sheers and your set. If your using the JS front case then you need all of the previous stuff plus you will need to mod the oil pan slightly. Flaten one side, weld up a hole and drill a new hole slighty off where the old one was. I have pics of this also. You can how ever just use a two piece JS oil pan, dump, and splash shield if you weld your oil return fitting into it. (i have all of the JS stuff from my motor and will sell it if you pm me.)
Added notes... The dip stick will clear so don't worry, and you can use 63 balance.shaft delete kit. Also be sure to use evo knock sensor and temp sensors. Can also use evo 8 head gasket and head studs. The crank sensor and crank sensor reluctor plate can be used off the 63/64 or JS motors.
Last edited by Live4Redline; Mar 29, 2012 at 01:20 AM.
Apr 11, 2012, 03:02 PM
#37
Bumping this for more info
I got a call from the machinist today, the factory Hyundai/Kia springs are NOT beehive like the factory Evo springs. I had bought a set of oem springs with the intent to use the retainers in the head already and they don't work.
So... if you want evo springs, you need evo retainers as well.
I got a call from the machinist today, the factory Hyundai/Kia springs are NOT beehive like the factory Evo springs. I had bought a set of oem springs with the intent to use the retainers in the head already and they don't work.
So... if you want evo springs, you need evo retainers as well.
Jun 5, 2012, 02:28 AM
#39
I updated my build thread but I did finaly finish my power steering setup. Used an EVO bracket modifed to fit with an EVO pump. I removed the pully and then put it on backwards so that it would line up with the g4js crank pulpy and used a 395K5 belt. This route did not give me an option of a belt tensioner but there's enough play in the pump to get the belt on and off. No slipage and works like a charm.
The project is almost ready to start posting up some real results but im still finishing up one or two legal things before I can put her on.the street and then.dyno for a proper tune.
The project is almost ready to start posting up some real results but im still finishing up one or two legal things before I can put her on.the street and then.dyno for a proper tune.
Oct 27, 2012, 05:10 PM
#42
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My first car was a sonata 2.4 1999, and now i understand why, even running diesel 15w40 at -40 all the winter, always in the red line and beating it up, it would still run like a charms even at 200 000 kilo lolll
Dec 26, 2012, 11:16 AM
#43
Anyone notice the cam caps lack dowels in the middle caps? I am not 100% afraid of that since the ends are doweled but it requires some finesse to get them to go on straight without the dowels. Going to order some from Mitsu but I thought it was kinda odd.
aaron
aaron
Dec 27, 2012, 06:46 AM
#44
Yes. I've been running fine without them
Dec 27, 2012, 06:01 PM
#45
So far the list of everything you need/want off the donor car-
Thermostat housing
Waterpipe
Valvecover - which needs modded somewhat for the Evo
Lifters (or see below)
Plug for the coolant passage in the head on the intake side
Stock Coils (or see below)
Machine work-
add dowels and line hone cam caps
machine lifter bores to accept slightly larger Mitsu stuff
weld new bosses on for Evo coils (not same location as Kia/Hyundai)
Thermostat housing
Waterpipe
Valvecover - which needs modded somewhat for the Evo
Lifters (or see below)
Plug for the coolant passage in the head on the intake side
Stock Coils (or see below)
Machine work-
add dowels and line hone cam caps
machine lifter bores to accept slightly larger Mitsu stuff
weld new bosses on for Evo coils (not same location as Kia/Hyundai)