I'm no master at shifting yet, but doesn't that method throw the RPM's past the redline when you press the clutch before letting the gas off, thereby creating a powershift when you engage the next gear? If anything, wouldn't that cause more buckle?

 

you dont need to match rps in new cars thats what the syncronisers are for you can shift your car without the clutch (and safly if you know how to do it)

 

To me, it sounds like a busted blow off valve. Check the vacuum line going to it for leaks. Also, check that the blow off valve is working. If the car bucks at part throttle, it could be because the BOV is stuck closed. It happens with some VTA BOV's too.

These cars (stock) do drop from 19psi to 16.5psi.... Could it be that?

 

I have a similar problem. It has only happened twice in 1600 miles. Dealer is blaming it on either the boost gauge or the turbo timmer. They say they don't understand why but when those two Items are not hooked up the car runs fine and won't stall out. THis time around the car would not start (well it would start but not idle). THey said they tried two different ECU's and as soon as they connect the turbo timer and boost gauge the problem comes right back and that for whatever reason the ecu kills the fuel driver signal when the aftermarket items (autometer boost gauge and greddy turbo timer). Seems odd to me becuase the car ran fine for sever days with the turbo timer and several weeks with the boost gauge.

And the first time it happened the boost gauge had only been connected to the boost/vacume source no electrical connections at all and I did not have the turbo timer. I unhooked the boost gauge the first time and it still would not startup and idle. At the dealer ship they found a loose clamp on the turbo inlet hose that they tightened up.

The second time, I was able to get the car home but only if at over half throttle, otherwise the car would flake out and die, it would only stay running at near full throttle.

I think it is an intermitant issue with the grounding on part of the system (maybee the divertor valve or the IAC motor)

 

Hey...i would say ....if it has nothing to do with boost leaks (aka you checked all the intercooler pipes, and the bov or diverter valve) then i would say make sure the fueling or lack of proper octane isn't causing the problems. Maybe check out the maf....unplug it (in most cars the car will still run) and see if its the same. Or just clean it out with 98 or higher % isypropl rubbing alchohol ....what you do is soak the whole maf and then pull it out and let it dry for a couple hrs. Just my .02
Dave

 

Try disconecting the battery for 20 min, And follow the instructions on page 6-21 of the owners manual.

 

I tried reseting the ecu with no luck.

 

Have you checked for the imobilizer light on the dash when it starts acting up??? I say that becuase one of my keys no longer works.. the same one that I was using when I've had my stalling problems and failure to startup and idle.

 

Nothing like that. Its just a *simple leak* im droping it off at the dealership tonight. Maybe i'll know whats wrong with it tomorrow. -Z

 

Not to worry. I have two other Mitsubishi's with nearly 180,000 miles on each. I would call them both very reliable. A 1992 Galant VR-4 with basically the same engine and a 1992 Diamante LS. Maybe I am just lucky.

Flybyevo...

 

Well? You took it to the dealer, what was it?
What happened to NoVetteinOK?

 

They didn't know what it was and they tried to tell me it was normal at first...lol. Then I took them for a ride and showed them that it wouldnt even go to redline in third gear. They also tried to tell me I wasn't losing any power untill I drove them in it. They told me they would have to wait for a bulletin from Mitsubishi to address the problem. I know that it needs a new turbo. The compressor turbine wobbles. It accually sounds like its getting worse, now it makes a really wierd noise like the turbine is rubbing against the inner housing. I'm going to call Mitsu of America, I dont know what else to do. Hopefully it can be handled in a professional manner - or I can just keep droping it off at the dealership and after three times I can remind them what a lemon is. -Zach

 

That is a bunch of BS. Does that dealer even know what techline is??? That is what it is there for, for them to call in with problems the dealer has not seen before..

Call MMusa and try to find another dealer in the mean time. Or just tell mitsu since the dealer says they have to wait till a bulletin comes out to fix the car that you have to wait till the car is fixed to make any mopre payments... sounds fair right.

 

What is the number to Mitsubishi of America?

 

They did call the tech line and they told them it was normal. The dealership didn't give them a good explanation of what was happening. I'm going to bring it back and leave it there untill the problem is fixed. Hopefully this won't turn into more of a hastle than it already is. I have no problem making this a legal matter after I bring it to the dealership three times and im definetly going to let them know that when I bring it. -Zach