Will keep that in mind hopefully I wont have to go through this in a while

 

+1

 

If you want to be sure you are not damaging the engine, you will prime the motor before you turn it over. This can be done by (1) spinning the oil pump with a drill before you install the timing belt, or (2) using an electric preluber.

Spinning the motor without oil pressure is like playing russian roulette. Why would you do that, with the money you have invested in a new motor, when the options for full pressure are so easy?

 

I agree with CO VR4 you absolutely should prime the oil pump before you start the motor. I just built my motor and it took a good 3-4 minutes on a high speed drill before it primed. Imagine your brand new engine starving for oil for even 10 seconds. If the timing belt is already on you can pull the cam sensor plug and then use the starter to prime. It is not ideal as that is hard on the starter and you don't really get as many RPM as a drill. Good Luck!

 

You can prime the whole system with a drill or pneumatic gun at the oil pump previous to starting. Even if you don't start it right away, its still better than trying to rely on the starter to feed the engine. The starter doesn't spin fast enough to build any real oil pressure.

Engines are broken in here on the dyno.

And changing the oil & filter previous to 100 miles is absolutely required.
I had mine changed 3 times before 100 miles.

Excessive idling is not good either. Its ok to let it come up to temp, check for leaks, and fix as needed. But you really want to load the engine as soon as possible for proper break in.

Decel in gear helps load the rings and to suck out particulate with the exhaust.


On a side note, I wouldn't break an engine in on the shiny new turbo you just bought either. Especially if its a BB CHRA. Journal bearing turbo's can handle more of the wreckage that becomes your oil in those first moments. But I've even seen them fail due to break in on a new engine.

So be careful!