Car runs bad after cams
I appreciate everyone jumping in here with advice, especially the vendor who sold him the cams (TTP).... with my experience with Scott, he has always been a great guy to deal with and has been really quick to answer my questions and give helpful advice.
With that being said, it seems to me like all that is left for us to do is swap the cams out and see if the car runs better. If it does it has to be cams... if it doesnt then id say the valve is the culprit as i know timing is dead on and we have went back and swapped the sensor positions with no luck on a fix.
Let me ask you guys this.... mainly directed at Scott, if it is a bent valve... would the car run well over 4000 rpm ? Seriously, the car from 2500 to 4000 is terrible, everytime when 4k hits, the car wakes up and runs perfectly fine.... Thats why i immediately thought it was a timing issue and that is what forced us to check it for the 3rd and 4th time as well as swap plugs and clean the intake filter and anything and everything else. If there are no bent valves, which i dont know how to check for that aside from swapping the cams to see if it goes away, id think timing, but since timing is on by the marks, id have to say that the grind has to be off ever so slightly to make the timing off.
With that being said, it seems to me like all that is left for us to do is swap the cams out and see if the car runs better. If it does it has to be cams... if it doesnt then id say the valve is the culprit as i know timing is dead on and we have went back and swapped the sensor positions with no luck on a fix.
Let me ask you guys this.... mainly directed at Scott, if it is a bent valve... would the car run well over 4000 rpm ? Seriously, the car from 2500 to 4000 is terrible, everytime when 4k hits, the car wakes up and runs perfectly fine.... Thats why i immediately thought it was a timing issue and that is what forced us to check it for the 3rd and 4th time as well as swap plugs and clean the intake filter and anything and everything else. If there are no bent valves, which i dont know how to check for that aside from swapping the cams to see if it goes away, id think timing, but since timing is on by the marks, id have to say that the grind has to be off ever so slightly to make the timing off.
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There is nothing wrong with Cosworth cams and this rumor is going to come to an end.
Unless the LOWER timing cover is being removed and crank trigger, front oil pump gear and camgear marks are being aligned, you are not doing it correctly.
You need to remove the lower cover, accessory belt, wpump pulley and recheck the marks under the cover.
Just because the marks on the gears to valve cover line up, does NOT mean the car is "in time".
Unless the LOWER timing cover is being removed and crank trigger, front oil pump gear and camgear marks are being aligned, you are not doing it correctly.
You need to remove the lower cover, accessory belt, wpump pulley and recheck the marks under the cover.
Just because the marks on the gears to valve cover line up, does NOT mean the car is "in time".
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
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Jason.. i wanna find Treu TDC in the car.. I dotn give a **** what the marks say.. Im gonna bring the car down friday if i can... take out the number 1 plug and stick a ****in screwdriver in.... turn the crank and stop it when its at the top... then check the marks.
Unless the LOWER timing cover is being removed and crank trigger, front oil pump gear and camgear marks are being aligned, you are not doing it correctly.
You need to remove the lower cover, accessory belt, wpump pulley and recheck the marks under the cover.
Just because the marks on the gears to valve cover line up, does NOT mean the car is "in time".
You need to remove the lower cover, accessory belt, wpump pulley and recheck the marks under the cover.
Just because the marks on the gears to valve cover line up, does NOT mean the car is "in time".
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Jason... right..
but the bottom has to be fine... it is something up top.
if the number one piston is all the way up then the bottom is right... i just wanna see what everything up top looks like with the bottom at TDC
but the bottom has to be fine... it is something up top.
if the number one piston is all the way up then the bottom is right... i just wanna see what everything up top looks like with the bottom at TDC
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
but if she jumped a tooth and it is down bottom we'd need to see it.... we might as well check the oil pump mark while we are doing this again. we will chat about it thursday when im up that way... dont forget about me
A leak down test is kind of like an advanced compression test. A compression test will show you that you're losing compression, a leak down test will tell you where. If you hear noise in the exhaust, it's an exhaust valve leak, noise in the intake, an intake valve, noise in the crank case, rings, noise/bubbles in the radiator, head gasket.
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shouldnt be a bent valve tho... lifters bled... and it couldnt have jumped more than a tooth... even if it did at all.. forget it.. I am not even gonna talk about this any more till I look at the car again.
Did you install valve springs and retainers?
I heard the 272 cosworth evo ix cams need these.. They are really agressive and the longevity of the car needs the springs and retainers.
Is this true? Or can you slap on the cams and tune?
Of course keeping the stock like rev-limiter
I heard the 272 cosworth evo ix cams need these.. They are really agressive and the longevity of the car needs the springs and retainers.
Is this true? Or can you slap on the cams and tune?
Of course keeping the stock like rev-limiter
