List of MR Owners who has switched to 5 Speed
Finally got my transfer case put in. The reason it took me so long was that I couldn't fit the the transfer case in with out hitting the motor or the sub-frame. So back to the drawing board. I searched on the boards for a solution and most people were saying that they took the sub-frame completely off. I didn't want to have to deal with getting an alignment afterwards. I can't remember who said it, but with the radiator, LICP and the front and rear engine mounts left off I was able to just leave the front engine mount bracket on (used this as a jacking point) and rotate the motor, with it being attached to the other motor mounts (passenger and drivers side), it gave me just enough room to squeeze the TC in. Now for the rest! I should have it buttoned up this coming Thanksgiving break. Can anyone clarify exactly (step-by-step) on how to bleed the ACD manually? I have read many posts on how to do it, but after reading them they just don't seem that straight forward.
I don't understand why anyone who would modify and race their car would buy the MR anyway. I did the research and bought a 5spd Rs simply because I did not want to run into this problem. Why not just sell your MR and buy a 5spd model? I can't imagine what the resale on a 5spd MR would be?
I bought my MR in 2004...There weren't anyone having problems with the 6 speed yet. There was no info on the forums either, at that time. Why would I sell my 6 speed MR with no 4th gear? I don't plan on selling my car. Thats just like asking a guy "Why would you buy a $30k car, that you have to roll the windows up manually?" Think before you post.
Last edited by GGEVO2k5MR; Nov 19, 2007 at 10:31 AM.
Finally got my transfer case put in. The reason it took me so long was that I couldn't fit the the transfer case in with out hitting the motor or the sub-frame. So back to the drawing board. I searched on the boards for a solution and most people were saying that they took the sub-frame completely off. I didn't want to have to deal with getting an alignment afterwards. I can't remember who said it, but with the radiator, LICP and the front and rear engine mounts left off I was able to just leave the front engine mount bracket on (used this as a jacking point) and rotate the motor, with it being attached to the other motor mounts (passenger and drivers side), it gave me just enough room to squeeze the TC in. Now for the rest! I should have it buttoned up this coming Thanksgiving break. Can anyone clarify exactly (step-by-step) on how to bleed the ACD manually? I have read many posts on how to do it, but after reading them they just don't seem that straight forward.
FWIW, I had to remove my transfer case to pull my tranny. I'm sure someone w/ more experience could have done it. But no matter how hard I tried pushing it out of the way, it always got stuck when trying to lower the transmission.
The advice is not beneficial because the problem existed due to reinstallation in the incorrect order. The TC should have not been removed and instead should have been tied back to the passenger side before the trans was installed. This way there would not be a problem trying to re-install it AFTER the transmission was in.
If you would have asked what the best method to remove and re-install it, it would have been an easy answer. Instead you have fought with it because you did not ask first before taking action. Next time ask first.
Our customer service ratings are located here if you are interested:
If you would have asked what the best method to remove and re-install it, it would have been an easy answer. Instead you have fought with it because you did not ask first before taking action. Next time ask first.
Our customer service ratings are located here if you are interested:
Last edited by TTP Engineering; Nov 19, 2007 at 12:34 PM.
The 6-spd is great. If you learn how to drive you'll be just fine unless you (wrongfully) abuse the crap out of it or have a ton of horsepower. The 5-spd may be a stronger tranny but you will break it with poor driving also. At the rate most of you guys break your tranny's its only a matter of time before you break your Shep tranny too.
The advice is not beneficial because the problem existed due to reinstallation in the incorrect order. The TC should have not been removed and instead should have been tied back to the passenger side before the trans was installed. This way there would not be a problem trying to re-install it AFTER the transmission was in.
If you would have asked what the best method to remove and re-install it, it would have been an easy answer. Instead you have fought with it because you did not ask first before taking action. Next time ask first.
If you would have asked what the best method to remove and re-install it, it would have been an easy answer. Instead you have fought with it because you did not ask first before taking action. Next time ask first.
I brought my car to a mod friendly dealership because I have a friend that is a master tech there and he told me it would be covered under warranty. This dealership, at the time, was certified by Mitsu to go ahead with warranty work with out having to have a rep to come out and look at the car. The tranny was taken apart, the tcase was removed along with everything else. Due to location they were down on sales and everyone was laid off. Someone else bought the dealership, rehired all the managers but the laborers salesmen and technicians were all new. They were no longer mitsu certified, they had to have a rep come out to look at the car before working on it. They gave me a call and said they would not be able to replace the tranny under warranty and the service manager let me pick the car up before the mitsu rep would void it. Along with that the service manager said they could fix it for 6600 and my warranty would more than likely be voided due to the mods on the car. I told them not to put the car back together and I would just pick it up.
And so back to your uninformative post. It was not the issue of me doing it incorrectly. All I am doing is trying to reinstall everything correctly. Thats why I didn't ask or even say anything about removing, I didn't need too! A few months ago I was looking for a wide band. I spoke to you through AIM and you were a jerk and I decided to go through another vendor to get my ZT-2. So next time I think about buying something from you, I won't.
I'm trying to make an informative post for people to learn from, that may run into the same problem/problems that I have ran into while working on my car.
The 6-spd is great. If you learn how to drive you'll be just fine unless you (wrongfully) abuse the crap out of it or have a ton of horsepower. The 5-spd may be a stronger tranny but you will break it with poor driving also. At the rate most of you guys break your tranny's its only a matter of time before you break your Shep tranny too.
This goes into another story I don't want to get into and even try to explain. I loved my 6spd. I am not a poor driver and have never WRONGFULLY abused the crap out of it and unfortunately my 4th gear had been destroyed by my cousin who thought he was in a race from Kroger to my house. I know I shouldn't have let him drive it but that was the punishment I was given by letting him drive it. From now on no one drives my car but me.
ive done a little searching on this also but havent found many 06MR 6 speed transmissions failing...i love mine and wouldnt switch it out...i am gathering parts for a cooler though as I know how hot they get at the road courses
All I asked was how to bleed the ACD. I figured someone would give me a straight forward answer instead of a some smart@$$ remark. Now Ill have to explain the whole friggin' story so I don't look like a jack@$$.
I brought my car to a mod friendly dealership because I have a friend that is a master tech there and he told me it would be covered under warranty. This dealership, at the time, was certified by Mitsu to go ahead with warranty work with out having to have a rep to come out and look at the car. The tranny was taken apart, the tcase was removed along with everything else. Due to location they were down on sales and everyone was laid off. Someone else bought the dealership, rehired all the managers but the laborers salesmen and technicians were all new. They were no longer mitsu certified, they had to have a rep come out to look at the car before working on it. They gave me a call and said they would not be able to replace the tranny under warranty and the service manager let me pick the car up before the mitsu rep would void it. Along with that the service manager said they could fix it for 6600 and my warranty would more than likely be voided due to the mods on the car. I told them not to put the car back together and I would just pick it up.
And so back to your uninformative post. It was not the issue of me doing it incorrectly. All I am doing is trying to reinstall everything correctly. Thats why I didn't ask or even say anything about removing, I didn't need too! A few months ago I was looking for a wide band. I spoke to you through AIM and you were a jerk and I decided to go through another vendor to get my ZT-2. So next time I think about buying something from you, I won't.
I'm trying to make an informative post for people to learn from, that may run into the same problem/problems that I have ran into while working on my car.
I brought my car to a mod friendly dealership because I have a friend that is a master tech there and he told me it would be covered under warranty. This dealership, at the time, was certified by Mitsu to go ahead with warranty work with out having to have a rep to come out and look at the car. The tranny was taken apart, the tcase was removed along with everything else. Due to location they were down on sales and everyone was laid off. Someone else bought the dealership, rehired all the managers but the laborers salesmen and technicians were all new. They were no longer mitsu certified, they had to have a rep come out to look at the car before working on it. They gave me a call and said they would not be able to replace the tranny under warranty and the service manager let me pick the car up before the mitsu rep would void it. Along with that the service manager said they could fix it for 6600 and my warranty would more than likely be voided due to the mods on the car. I told them not to put the car back together and I would just pick it up.
And so back to your uninformative post. It was not the issue of me doing it incorrectly. All I am doing is trying to reinstall everything correctly. Thats why I didn't ask or even say anything about removing, I didn't need too! A few months ago I was looking for a wide band. I spoke to you through AIM and you were a jerk and I decided to go through another vendor to get my ZT-2. So next time I think about buying something from you, I won't.
I'm trying to make an informative post for people to learn from, that may run into the same problem/problems that I have ran into while working on my car.
Your problem is your posting is off topic. A simple search would net you many results on that subject.
The fact remains your posts were voicing your frustration about how you reinstall the transfercase, and the thread is 6sp to 5sp conversions. If readers are confused it is because of your off topic banter.
We are the Master distributor for zeitronix. If you chose not to buy from TTP, the co-innovator of the unit's major features, then that is your loss of technical support.
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