Oh but don't forget, once your car has started, it ain't using your Optima battery. Alternator is the one doing the work then.......A good battery is mainly really for cranking especially at extreme conditions namely very very cold weather.

 

UPDATE:
Dealer found a bad ground, it ends up a grounding bolt came lose, and one grounding cable point and a few other stock grounds weren't making connections. However, the car was having the issues prior to install of the wire kit, and continues to persist even after i took it from the dealership. It happened on my way out of the dealership, so i pulled back in and mentioned it to them again. It seems at this point that the lose grounding bolt was the direct cause for the stall, and sudden drop in voltage, (into the 11s), which has not happened before, or since, but the original problem continues.

At this point, it seems that it will have to end up being a recall issue, however not knowing which part will be recalled, if any at all, or how to fix a certain part, nothing really can be done. They tested my alternator, AC system, charging system, regulator, battery, grounding system, etc.... and everything checked out perfect. I'm as clueless as the dealership, as well as the higher up techs it seems. Needless to say, this isn't normal for any car, if your car does this, take it in, even if it cannot be duplitacted, there will be a write up and paperwork on the complaint. If enough people keep going to the dealership, something will eventually get done.

I'm going to try and add a few more grounding cables on some choice points tomorrow, and see if that helps out at all. I tried to pick up an optima battery today, and the thing doesn't fit! It's about half an inch too big, which means that it would run into the upper inlet pipe, so thus i didn't buy it because it wouldn't fit.

I know that the alternator is what is giving the car's power really once the engine is on, however, if the alternator is faulty, the power then gets sucked from the battery, and thus a deep cycle battery would IMO help out a little since it can deal with those surges in power a little better.

Anything i can do to try and fix this problem i'll do at this point.
However, the car seems to be driving a little better today, but the idle dropped about 3 times on my way home from the dealer.

I'll see if anything i try to do tomorrow helps, and i'll continue to post here. I'm just really trying to get people who are having this trouble badly to at least have it documented at their service DEPT, maybe a fix will be found.

 

Yeah, try the grounds tomorrow. I think that might be the source of the problem.......

Let us know if that works out for you!!

 

seems like charging problem, but there's also the possibility it's ignition related.

just throwing out some hunches, since they've tested and covered the obvious....
check the sparkplug wires that they're on snug. maybe even re-torque the plugs if it's not too much trouble.

 

I've got this same problem. At first the idle would just drop really low but the car would recover but today it stalled.

Last night after reading this post I turned on all my electrical devices (stereo, headlights, defrost, cabin lights, and last the AC) and noticed the lights dim. Then tried to pull into the garage and the car again almost stalled. Up until today it has never stalled.

Looks like I'll be visiting the dealer soon.

 

So far it happen to me once where it almost stalled. This is all in the low speeds. The rpm dropped to maybe 400-600 and the car started shaking so I had to clutch in and put a little gas to rev the rpm back up. That is a scary and embrassing feeling on the street. What if I was in the middle of the intersection trying to make a left turn and it did that......I would be very pissed......

 

That ground you speak of strips out really easy. I put a grounding kit on and found the bolt was no longer, long enough to hold the grounds. It started to strip almost immediately. My suggestion is to chase the threads if you have a chaser or use a tap and be careful to just repair what's there. Then get yourself a M6X1.0 stud from a parts store and screw it in to the hole. You can even put a little loctite on it. Then use a nut to get a good clamp on those grounds. I also removed the paint on the body, just under the ground because that ground is so important. The unerhood fuse box uses that ground.

If the dealer tested the charging system and it was good then it may be okay. IF the voltage was at 11 though, before it actually stalled then that is a problem. A battery at full charge is actually 12.8 volts. Alternators are normally capped by the regulator to go to 14.7 volts while charging. My TT reports 14.11 at idle, with no load. I will test to see what it is with a full load because I don't have any problems like you describe.

And yes, heat is really hard on an alternator. Everytime summer would break, we used to do alternators all day long. I is also hard on the battery if it is already weak.

 

here are some suggestions

alternator spinning to slow due to the pulleys wich has been known to cause some issues.

grounding is always something to look at

stalling may be caused by low voltae not allowing teh injectors to open up due to not enough voltage.

however.. all in all i would think it is the ground because teh batter will not allow the voltage to go lower than what it can sustain under load. the alternator only charges the batter..as long as voltage is higher that that of the battery. i would check the alternator at autozone or something under a load before ti become more of a problem.

one other note i wanted to mention was the blow off vavle as we all know will cuase thes problems. hope this helps and gets you on the right track.

 

TurboZ - if it was possibly related to the BOV then wouldn't these problems also show up when the AC is off? this problem only occurs when I have AC running.

 

true, sorry must have missed that part. i am still agreeing with you on the improper ground or faulty alternator though. i have never experience problems that bad before.. but similar on my z. it turned out to be a bad alternator even though voltage was fine. austozone should have the machine to check the system with a load.

sorry bout the misunderstanding.

oh one other thing.. what about teh clutch on the A/C compressor. i know we had one car that would turn off when the ac would turn on becasue the compressor was to hard to turn. may be happening with your car and would only happen when A/C is on.

 

NEW, MORE NEWS AND UPDATES, SEE MY NEW POST, (I'M TRYING TO KEEP THIS AT THE TOP FOR ALL TO SEE).

 

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