Update! More News About Stalling Issues....
Update! More News About Stalling Issues....
Ok, i'm starting a new thread, trying to keep people's interest in this subject, and also keeping the topic up top. Here is the link to my previous post about this stalling issue:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...472#post364472
Ok, as noted in that post, the dealer released the car to me, saying that it wasn't a warranty issue due to the grounding bolt being stripped and lose. FIne, i leave, and i still continue to have the same exact problems.
Today, i was driving in a parking lot, and the car just died in neutral. idle and voltage dropped, and the car just shut off. I tried to restart it, didn't work, but i realized that the turbo timer was counting down. Turned the TT off, and started the car again, fired right up, no problems. Check light comes on. i drive away, in first, push the clutch in, car dies again, but while rolling i let the clutch out, and put the car into first, and the car "pop-starts" (like when your car doesn't start, you have to push it, and do it that way on a manual etc..) Now i have a check engine light, so tomorrow morning right when service opens, it's going back. The funny thing is that the voltage has been extremely low since this incident about 2 hours ago, but the car will drive and idle perfectly, now there are no issues it seems even with the AC on at full blast. It also seems as if the AC isn't getting as cold as it usually does, because usually in a few minutes time, the air coming out of the vents is blistering cold. Now it took me about 1 hour during drving for the AC to get even "chilly". So needless to say, that's going to be an issue when i take the car back in too.
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
Lastly, this might not be an issue at all, but worth noting here for you all. I know that our trannys make a lot of "strange" noises most other cars do not, due to our AWD setup and what not. But today, i did notice something out of the ordinary, that i really didn't notice ever before. I parked the car in the street at my freind's house since the ebrake didn't want to hold the car, and left the car, locked it, walked away, and noticed a strange noise i haven't heard before. Like lose metal rattling around, or something to that nature. I didn't pay much attention to it though, but when i got home, i popped the hood to make sure that the motor was ok, no lose pipes etc.. to cause the check light to come on, and i heard this noise again. It was hard to make it out, with the car's fan still on, and the motor running (TT was counting down). It sounds like it was coming from below the intake pipe, in the tranny or maybe the motor/turbo area. I imediatly though to myself a ruined turbo shaft, or wheel and that it was hitting the housing or something, but this seems very extreme and highly highly unlikely. It sounds more like a bottom end block noise, or tranny noise, but this is in neutral, car stopped, just timing down, and i couldn't really put my finger on it. It's not a normal noise, that's for sure. It's not something that i've noticed before at all, seems to be something very new.
The car officially has about 4530 miles on it, it's still a baby, and i'm having tons of issues with it. This will be my second time going in for the same exact issue (stalling/rpms dropping), and if i for any reason have to go through this again, i'll contact a lemon law attourny, and get things underway for that. I'm already looking into lemon law, just to research it, not as a possability just yet of course as it's way too early to do so. But might as well be prepared.
AGAIN, I STRESS WITH ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE THIS STALLING OR RPM'S DROPPING ISSUES, TO CONTACT YOUR DEALERSHIPS, THIS ISN'T A NORMAL THING, AND IT'S PORBABLY NOT GOING TO GO AWAY OR GET BETTER ON ANYONE'S CAR, BUT THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG CONCENSUS THAT IT'LL GET WORSE.
I have been talking to many knowledgeable people, techs, freinds', online people, etc... and we all seem to agree that this is an electrical issue, and i will mention to the dealer tomorrow that i am concerned about this being an actual ECU issue. Also, the dealership said that my alternator and charging system is fine, but i've read on here in a few threads including my old one linked above, that the TT voltage readouts should be in the high 13s to 14s all the time at idle, no matter what. Mine are never above mid 13s, unless the car has been sitting for a long time, in which case it starts at 14, and quickly drops to low 13s in mintues as car warms up. There is something amiss here, and i'll get to the bottom of it for sure.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...472#post364472
Ok, as noted in that post, the dealer released the car to me, saying that it wasn't a warranty issue due to the grounding bolt being stripped and lose. FIne, i leave, and i still continue to have the same exact problems.
Today, i was driving in a parking lot, and the car just died in neutral. idle and voltage dropped, and the car just shut off. I tried to restart it, didn't work, but i realized that the turbo timer was counting down. Turned the TT off, and started the car again, fired right up, no problems. Check light comes on. i drive away, in first, push the clutch in, car dies again, but while rolling i let the clutch out, and put the car into first, and the car "pop-starts" (like when your car doesn't start, you have to push it, and do it that way on a manual etc..) Now i have a check engine light, so tomorrow morning right when service opens, it's going back. The funny thing is that the voltage has been extremely low since this incident about 2 hours ago, but the car will drive and idle perfectly, now there are no issues it seems even with the AC on at full blast. It also seems as if the AC isn't getting as cold as it usually does, because usually in a few minutes time, the air coming out of the vents is blistering cold. Now it took me about 1 hour during drving for the AC to get even "chilly". So needless to say, that's going to be an issue when i take the car back in too.
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
Lastly, this might not be an issue at all, but worth noting here for you all. I know that our trannys make a lot of "strange" noises most other cars do not, due to our AWD setup and what not. But today, i did notice something out of the ordinary, that i really didn't notice ever before. I parked the car in the street at my freind's house since the ebrake didn't want to hold the car, and left the car, locked it, walked away, and noticed a strange noise i haven't heard before. Like lose metal rattling around, or something to that nature. I didn't pay much attention to it though, but when i got home, i popped the hood to make sure that the motor was ok, no lose pipes etc.. to cause the check light to come on, and i heard this noise again. It was hard to make it out, with the car's fan still on, and the motor running (TT was counting down). It sounds like it was coming from below the intake pipe, in the tranny or maybe the motor/turbo area. I imediatly though to myself a ruined turbo shaft, or wheel and that it was hitting the housing or something, but this seems very extreme and highly highly unlikely. It sounds more like a bottom end block noise, or tranny noise, but this is in neutral, car stopped, just timing down, and i couldn't really put my finger on it. It's not a normal noise, that's for sure. It's not something that i've noticed before at all, seems to be something very new.
The car officially has about 4530 miles on it, it's still a baby, and i'm having tons of issues with it. This will be my second time going in for the same exact issue (stalling/rpms dropping), and if i for any reason have to go through this again, i'll contact a lemon law attourny, and get things underway for that. I'm already looking into lemon law, just to research it, not as a possability just yet of course as it's way too early to do so. But might as well be prepared.
AGAIN, I STRESS WITH ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE THIS STALLING OR RPM'S DROPPING ISSUES, TO CONTACT YOUR DEALERSHIPS, THIS ISN'T A NORMAL THING, AND IT'S PORBABLY NOT GOING TO GO AWAY OR GET BETTER ON ANYONE'S CAR, BUT THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG CONCENSUS THAT IT'LL GET WORSE.
I have been talking to many knowledgeable people, techs, freinds', online people, etc... and we all seem to agree that this is an electrical issue, and i will mention to the dealer tomorrow that i am concerned about this being an actual ECU issue. Also, the dealership said that my alternator and charging system is fine, but i've read on here in a few threads including my old one linked above, that the TT voltage readouts should be in the high 13s to 14s all the time at idle, no matter what. Mine are never above mid 13s, unless the car has been sitting for a long time, in which case it starts at 14, and quickly drops to low 13s in mintues as car warms up. There is something amiss here, and i'll get to the bottom of it for sure.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Take out the Turbotimer(everything associated to it,wiring etc) see if that helps, then change battery, make the dealer check your engine/tranny(ie sticking a magnet). Do the simple things first, process of elimination.
And dont yell at them be nice, friendly and calm, i know its hard but try. Or goto another dealer.
And dont yell at them be nice, friendly and calm, i know its hard but try. Or goto another dealer.
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: LA
My driveway is on a hill and i have the same prob wit the ebrake my **** started to roll down the drive way but im fast and caught up wit the car and hit the brake. you have to keep trying to pull it up until it holds but the strange thing is it doesent happen everytime
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Re: Update! More News About Stalling Issues....
Originally posted by EvoInSoCal
Ok, i'm starting a new thread, trying to keep people's interest in this subject, and also keeping the topic up top. Here is the link to my previous post about this stalling issue:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...472#post364472
Ok, as noted in that post, the dealer released the car to me, saying that it wasn't a warranty issue due to the grounding bolt being stripped and lose. FIne, i leave, and i still continue to have the same exact problems.
Today, i was driving in a parking lot, and the car just died in neutral. idle and voltage dropped, and the car just shut off. I tried to restart it, didn't work, but i realized that the turbo timer was counting down. Turned the TT off, and started the car again, fired right up, no problems. Check light comes on. i drive away, in first, push the clutch in, car dies again, but while rolling i let the clutch out, and put the car into first, and the car "pop-starts" (like when your car doesn't start, you have to push it, and do it that way on a manual etc..) Now i have a check engine light, so tomorrow morning right when service opens, it's going back. The funny thing is that the voltage has been extremely low since this incident about 2 hours ago, but the car will drive and idle perfectly, now there are no issues it seems even with the AC on at full blast. It also seems as if the AC isn't getting as cold as it usually does, because usually in a few minutes time, the air coming out of the vents is blistering cold. Now it took me about 1 hour during drving for the AC to get even "chilly". So needless to say, that's going to be an issue when i take the car back in too.
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
Lastly, this might not be an issue at all, but worth noting here for you all. I know that our trannys make a lot of "strange" noises most other cars do not, due to our AWD setup and what not. But today, i did notice something out of the ordinary, that i really didn't notice ever before. I parked the car in the street at my freind's house since the ebrake didn't want to hold the car, and left the car, locked it, walked away, and noticed a strange noise i haven't heard before. Like lose metal rattling around, or something to that nature. I didn't pay much attention to it though, but when i got home, i popped the hood to make sure that the motor was ok, no lose pipes etc.. to cause the check light to come on, and i heard this noise again. It was hard to make it out, with the car's fan still on, and the motor running (TT was counting down). It sounds like it was coming from below the intake pipe, in the tranny or maybe the motor/turbo area. I imediatly though to myself a ruined turbo shaft, or wheel and that it was hitting the housing or something, but this seems very extreme and highly highly unlikely. It sounds more like a bottom end block noise, or tranny noise, but this is in neutral, car stopped, just timing down, and i couldn't really put my finger on it. It's not a normal noise, that's for sure. It's not something that i've noticed before at all, seems to be something very new.
The car officially has about 4530 miles on it, it's still a baby, and i'm having tons of issues with it. This will be my second time going in for the same exact issue (stalling/rpms dropping), and if i for any reason have to go through this again, i'll contact a lemon law attourny, and get things underway for that. I'm already looking into lemon law, just to research it, not as a possability just yet of course as it's way too early to do so. But might as well be prepared.
AGAIN, I STRESS WITH ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE THIS STALLING OR RPM'S DROPPING ISSUES, TO CONTACT YOUR DEALERSHIPS, THIS ISN'T A NORMAL THING, AND IT'S PORBABLY NOT GOING TO GO AWAY OR GET BETTER ON ANYONE'S CAR, BUT THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG CONCENSUS THAT IT'LL GET WORSE.
I have been talking to many knowledgeable people, techs, freinds', online people, etc... and we all seem to agree that this is an electrical issue, and i will mention to the dealer tomorrow that i am concerned about this being an actual ECU issue. Also, the dealership said that my alternator and charging system is fine, but i've read on here in a few threads including my old one linked above, that the TT voltage readouts should be in the high 13s to 14s all the time at idle, no matter what. Mine are never above mid 13s, unless the car has been sitting for a long time, in which case it starts at 14, and quickly drops to low 13s in mintues as car warms up. There is something amiss here, and i'll get to the bottom of it for sure.
Ok, i'm starting a new thread, trying to keep people's interest in this subject, and also keeping the topic up top. Here is the link to my previous post about this stalling issue:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...472#post364472
Ok, as noted in that post, the dealer released the car to me, saying that it wasn't a warranty issue due to the grounding bolt being stripped and lose. FIne, i leave, and i still continue to have the same exact problems.
Today, i was driving in a parking lot, and the car just died in neutral. idle and voltage dropped, and the car just shut off. I tried to restart it, didn't work, but i realized that the turbo timer was counting down. Turned the TT off, and started the car again, fired right up, no problems. Check light comes on. i drive away, in first, push the clutch in, car dies again, but while rolling i let the clutch out, and put the car into first, and the car "pop-starts" (like when your car doesn't start, you have to push it, and do it that way on a manual etc..) Now i have a check engine light, so tomorrow morning right when service opens, it's going back. The funny thing is that the voltage has been extremely low since this incident about 2 hours ago, but the car will drive and idle perfectly, now there are no issues it seems even with the AC on at full blast. It also seems as if the AC isn't getting as cold as it usually does, because usually in a few minutes time, the air coming out of the vents is blistering cold. Now it took me about 1 hour during drving for the AC to get even "chilly". So needless to say, that's going to be an issue when i take the car back in too.
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
Lastly, this might not be an issue at all, but worth noting here for you all. I know that our trannys make a lot of "strange" noises most other cars do not, due to our AWD setup and what not. But today, i did notice something out of the ordinary, that i really didn't notice ever before. I parked the car in the street at my freind's house since the ebrake didn't want to hold the car, and left the car, locked it, walked away, and noticed a strange noise i haven't heard before. Like lose metal rattling around, or something to that nature. I didn't pay much attention to it though, but when i got home, i popped the hood to make sure that the motor was ok, no lose pipes etc.. to cause the check light to come on, and i heard this noise again. It was hard to make it out, with the car's fan still on, and the motor running (TT was counting down). It sounds like it was coming from below the intake pipe, in the tranny or maybe the motor/turbo area. I imediatly though to myself a ruined turbo shaft, or wheel and that it was hitting the housing or something, but this seems very extreme and highly highly unlikely. It sounds more like a bottom end block noise, or tranny noise, but this is in neutral, car stopped, just timing down, and i couldn't really put my finger on it. It's not a normal noise, that's for sure. It's not something that i've noticed before at all, seems to be something very new.
The car officially has about 4530 miles on it, it's still a baby, and i'm having tons of issues with it. This will be my second time going in for the same exact issue (stalling/rpms dropping), and if i for any reason have to go through this again, i'll contact a lemon law attourny, and get things underway for that. I'm already looking into lemon law, just to research it, not as a possability just yet of course as it's way too early to do so. But might as well be prepared.
AGAIN, I STRESS WITH ALL OF YOU WHO HAVE THIS STALLING OR RPM'S DROPPING ISSUES, TO CONTACT YOUR DEALERSHIPS, THIS ISN'T A NORMAL THING, AND IT'S PORBABLY NOT GOING TO GO AWAY OR GET BETTER ON ANYONE'S CAR, BUT THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG CONCENSUS THAT IT'LL GET WORSE.
I have been talking to many knowledgeable people, techs, freinds', online people, etc... and we all seem to agree that this is an electrical issue, and i will mention to the dealer tomorrow that i am concerned about this being an actual ECU issue. Also, the dealership said that my alternator and charging system is fine, but i've read on here in a few threads including my old one linked above, that the TT voltage readouts should be in the high 13s to 14s all the time at idle, no matter what. Mine are never above mid 13s, unless the car has been sitting for a long time, in which case it starts at 14, and quickly drops to low 13s in mintues as car warms up. There is something amiss here, and i'll get to the bottom of it for sure.
Your serpentine belt tensioner is bad.
First the air is not cold because there is a lack of tension on the belt. The compressor puts a load on the belt.
The car is losing voltage because it is not spinning the alternator properly. Especially with the AC on the belt will be looser.
The noise you heard was the tensioner rattling which is very common when they go out.
Very simple checks to see if this is the problem.
First, with the car off, grab the belt and pull on it. You pretty much can't move it. If you can, that is first clue.
Next, start car at idle with the AC on. Look at the belt and particulary the tensioner. If the belt is vibrating or slapping then the tension pulley is also probably shaking real bad. IT should be quite steady.
Let me know how you make out.
Oh the other possibility is a bad idler pulley or one of the accessories is bad. IE the compressor bearing or the alternator bearing. It should be pretty evident from what you describe.
And it will get worse over time, which is why they may not have seen it when you were last in the dealer.
Last edited by timzcat; Jul 20, 2003 at 07:26 PM.
i did my own turbo timer, and it's plugged in with the greddy harness. I know i's nothing to do with the TT, because i had the problem even before i installed it, just the problem wasn't as bad as it is now. It's progressively gotten much worse. I have a stock BOV on the car, with an HKS suction intake, whichis hooked up properly for recirculating the air. All items were installed after i first noticed the problems (read my other posts for further explinations). I'll metion these points of interest to the dealer tomorrow, all seem very very plausible. I want to thank you guys for makig some really good and possibly helpful suggestions. I'm sure we'll find out tomorrow what the deal is. I'll keep you all posted on this.
Well, the dealer blamed my stalling on my turbo timer with the greddy harness even though it stalled out on me before I put the turbo timer in. I have both the TT and the boost gauge disconnected now waiting on the problem to come back so that I can make them fix it.
I know you are convenced that the tt is not the source (and for good reason i might add as I don't think that was my problem either but it has not come back since I unplugged the harness), but go check my turbo timer wiring question post in the troubleshooting section and look at the wiring diagram. It is possible that the greddy harness is not correct and could contribute to the issue by sending voltage to the wrong line.
Sounds like Timz has the best idea so far please let us know how it turns out....
And I feel for ya man, I won't drive my car without a cell phone anymore since it has left me stranded twice now.
And yeah the ebrake blows chunks, they adjusted it way loose form the factory and I still have not gotten around to correcting mine.
I know you are convenced that the tt is not the source (and for good reason i might add as I don't think that was my problem either but it has not come back since I unplugged the harness), but go check my turbo timer wiring question post in the troubleshooting section and look at the wiring diagram. It is possible that the greddy harness is not correct and could contribute to the issue by sending voltage to the wrong line.
Sounds like Timz has the best idea so far please let us know how it turns out....
And I feel for ya man, I won't drive my car without a cell phone anymore since it has left me stranded twice now.
And yeah the ebrake blows chunks, they adjusted it way loose form the factory and I still have not gotten around to correcting mine.
Originally posted by EvoInSoCal
i did my own turbo timer, and it's plugged in with the greddy harness. I know i's nothing to do with the TT, because i had the problem even before i installed it, just the problem wasn't as bad as it is now. It's progressively gotten much worse. I have a stock BOV on the car, with an HKS suction intake, whichis hooked up properly for recirculating the air. All items were installed after i first noticed the problems (read my other posts for further explinations). I'll metion these points of interest to the dealer tomorrow, all seem very very plausible. I want to thank you guys for makig some really good and possibly helpful suggestions. I'm sure we'll find out tomorrow what the deal is. I'll keep you all posted on this.
i did my own turbo timer, and it's plugged in with the greddy harness. I know i's nothing to do with the TT, because i had the problem even before i installed it, just the problem wasn't as bad as it is now. It's progressively gotten much worse. I have a stock BOV on the car, with an HKS suction intake, whichis hooked up properly for recirculating the air. All items were installed after i first noticed the problems (read my other posts for further explinations). I'll metion these points of interest to the dealer tomorrow, all seem very very plausible. I want to thank you guys for makig some really good and possibly helpful suggestions. I'm sure we'll find out tomorrow what the deal is. I'll keep you all posted on this.
If I am right, wouldn't you rather go to the dealer and tell them what's wrong with the car? They hate that, since they already worked on it for the problem.
Re: Update! More News About Stalling Issues....
Originally posted by EvoInSoCal
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
Also, has anyone noticed their e-brake not holding their cars? I was in an inclined driveway at my freind's house today, and i put the e-brake on, almost as high as i could get it, (picture yourself putting the e-brake on normally, not trying to lift it extremely high). The car wouldn't hold, and it began to roll back. I couldn't leave it in drive, as i have a turbo time on the car. So this is an issue to be brought up to the dealership too.
This problem can't be due to the turbo timer because I have the same problem and I'm completely stock. Mine has only stalled once, so it's not as often. I just need to find some time to take it to the dealer.
Gentlemen, I think that the stalling might be unrelated to the TT, but it's gonna be a prime suspect because it's hooked to the wiring. The dealers definitely have a reason (a bad one maybe, but a reason nonetheless) to try to squirm out of the loop and not make your cars right.
The Ebrake is rather bad too.. OTOH, no e-brake out there will hold a car in an incline from rolling backwards. The EVO has a hard time holding the car from rolling forward
Anyway, I had some issues with the E-brake utilization with my WRX because of the TT. That's why I advise anybody who asks to not get a TT. I've had them before and they are unnecessary 99% of the time. If you drive that hard, just let the car idle for a minute before you shut it off. The TT sucks because it leads to all sorts of issues like not being able to leave the car in gear, leaving the engine running with the car unattended, potential wiring issues, and probably more stuff that I forgot.
The Ebrake is rather bad too.. OTOH, no e-brake out there will hold a car in an incline from rolling backwards. The EVO has a hard time holding the car from rolling forward
Anyway, I had some issues with the E-brake utilization with my WRX because of the TT. That's why I advise anybody who asks to not get a TT. I've had them before and they are unnecessary 99% of the time. If you drive that hard, just let the car idle for a minute before you shut it off. The TT sucks because it leads to all sorts of issues like not being able to leave the car in gear, leaving the engine running with the car unattended, potential wiring issues, and probably more stuff that I forgot.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Austin Tx
hey dosn't the tt usually hook up to the emergency brake so if it is put down the car will turn off? hmmm.. maybe it backfired. something to look into.
and for the brake what kind of set up is it? is it a drum inside the disc like mercedes or the 90-96 Z? or does it put pressure on the rear calipers. one more thing to check is the cable as it may be stretching or if its the 2nd scenario it may be the fluid was to hot and could not be compresses due to teh gas in the line.
just suggestions
oh and for the noise (i am not sure on this one but...)are you sure its not the oil falling off the crank bearings or the condensation from the intake(the steady ticking when the motor is warm and idling or after it has been turned off)
and for the brake what kind of set up is it? is it a drum inside the disc like mercedes or the 90-96 Z? or does it put pressure on the rear calipers. one more thing to check is the cable as it may be stretching or if its the 2nd scenario it may be the fluid was to hot and could not be compresses due to teh gas in the line.
just suggestions
oh and for the noise (i am not sure on this one but...)are you sure its not the oil falling off the crank bearings or the condensation from the intake(the steady ticking when the motor is warm and idling or after it has been turned off)
Last edited by TurboZ; Jul 21, 2003 at 03:29 PM.