Since the original post was concerning the green, I'll also post my opinon as to the 'Mileage variances':

The Green really only needs a free flowing exhaust, tune, and octane to be an incredibly fast spooling MID 10 second street monster that truly transcends any spiritual drives on the stock 9 turbo.

 

Ok I am confused by reading a few replys to this post. I thought the Green out performed the regular IX on 93 and with a little meth/race gas. Is this true for just 93? I only ask because I want to upgrad my VIII to the Fp but if the IX does better on pump I might not need it, since I will most likely on use 93 since it's my daily driver. Any info would be great
Thanks

 

The Green will outperform the stock turbo on ANYTHING. We're talking same parts to same parts, same tune to same tune. YES, it's possible to make a IX turbo outperform a less prepared car running the Green, but part for part, tune for tune, fuel for fuel (or even IX on race and Green on pump) I feel the Green will make more power. The Green is 47+ lb/min compressor wheel. It's been shown many times that the Forced Performance Green has nearly (in some cases better) than stock like spool. When we ran the OKIX car on 100 oct (pre-meth) we were no where near the current tune and still ran mid to high 11's, full weight car. After adding the Meth and still using a basically aggressive street tune, we ran 11.3's at 122. Then, with 30 minutes of changing from Street to Strip preparation, Same parts, more aggressive RACE tune, change to Import gas we ran 10.93 at 127.98 mph. After each race, we put 101 back in, fill up the 2qt water/meth, reflash the street tune and it's back to daily driving. 30 Minutes at most. With the Green, you can have your cake and eat it too. We obviously have a IX and the stock turbo is great, but let's not make it something that it's not. It's not a Green and numbers speak for themselves. Since running the 10.9's, we've lightened the car to 2900 (just by temporarily removing the rear seats), changed to JUN 272's (very streetable), built the engine for reliability and ported the head. We're now still daily driving it on street tune and 101+water/meth. We throw a set of QTP Hoosiers on it, and recently at the first meet cracked off 4 10.6's in a row with the best being 10.61 at 130+mph. The car was then, reflashed with street tune, filled with 101, street tires/wheels put back on it and driven to work by my son. This is our NO BS, real-world experience that can also be enjoyed by anyone able and willing to do it. Just want to give the Green side of daily driving and performance.

 

I just reread the original thread..... I guess I missed the point the first time through. The OP is already on a green and has a FMIC. Your numbers look excellent.

I would now invest money into octane (either race fuel or chemical intercooling).

 

Id say getting 55 torque is pretty bad, J/K I know its a typo, good job man

 

The guys here are saying to go the next level for this turbo and setup, I need the cams and valve springs (ie doing the cams and the head). I am not so keen as I have to keep the car street driveable.

I know this is going off point, but I am running a twin plate HKS clutch. I miss the original clutch and its forgiveness. The racing clutch is not so forgiving. With these sort of numbers, will the stock clutch manage the power or must i run a twin plate clutch?

 

not all cams require upgraded head work and valve springs. if you have access to HKS parts, their cams are all usable with the stock valve train

 

Call me mad, but my philosophy is get things done and max out what we have, then not touch the car again. For me, doing the cams would mean doing anything to lower compression so more power can be extracted. remember, I have to pay a workshop for labour and its not cheap. So get things done once and don't think about it.

I heard good things about the HKS cams, but its worth 30 HP and I am not sure if its worth the cost.

any comments on the clutch?

 

A twin plate clutch will not only hold loads more power than the stocker, but it is easier on the transmission because it disengages fully. Your twin plate either needs an adjustment or you just need to learnt to drive it better.

Whoever said you need cams and valvesprings to run the green just wants your money in their pocket. Although it would help, I don't think that its worth it in your particular situation because of the cost of sourcing the parts and the expensive labor that you mention.

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Although I give you respect for what you do and the informative posts you ussually hold yourself to, that is a pretty rediculous statement and I think you know it.

Your son's 9 is the only car with a green that is going mid 10's (minus CB, who needs no mention in this topic). Not only is it running racegas and meth, it is an RS with a ton of modification, slicks, and weight reduction.

If all you needed was what you mentioned to go 10's, everyone and their mother would be doing it.

I don't mean to rub off as a jerk because that is not my intention. That is just such a generalized blanket statement that will mislead many also considering that people heed your advice considering you and your sons accomplishments using this turbo.

I think there are only 2 others going 10's on the green and they are very highly modified cars and are going high 10's (10.8-10.9) IIRC

 

Boltz, I hear what you're saying and respect it, no problem at all. What my viewpoint is, however, is that I truly feel that as more people push their boosts and parts, the 10's will become much more common on the Green. I really don't feel that we're doing anything special, just a lot of parts and fuel that's readily available to anyone (at least in the U.S). I'm trying to assume that many others are also after the mid 10's, so we continue to push harder for low 10's. Nooo problems with the comments though, that's why it's a forum.