We use the german castrol 505 01 TSX oil in our VW engine's at work. Its like $9 a quart.
505 01 oil is recommended in the PD TDi engine. It has something with the oil molecules under extreme pressure were the cam lobes press down on the injectors themselves. If and when 25,000 psi fuel pressure is needed the oil will not break down from being sqeezed so hard in between the cam lobe and injector inside the head...

 

AMSOIL Product Code AFL 5W-30 meets that Spec. and my Retail price is only $8.00 for 100% Synthetic.

Wholesale is quite a bit less than that... Email me the name of your shop, phone # and person to contact, I will make an anonymous call.


Doc


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I dunno man we get 3000 qts at a time and VW recommends Castrol in there engines.

We sell it for $9 but I dont know what we buy it from VW for?

 

250 cases..... yup, bump it about 50 more cases and I can get you free freight too....

Recommendations for a certain product are because they get paid for that. Just like Mits and Mobil, they are just in bed together.

Doc


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Tell ya what I will see what my GM has to say about it tommarrow Doc, and I will PM ya

 

what prompted the change?

 

Read up on oil Doc had said after 2000 miles was getting lifter rattle,so changed it out.I don't believe I had that though.The Amsoil vavletrain sounds a little quieter.

 

so oil doc. , u are saying that this GC is a Hyrdo-Cracked oil because its freezing point isnt as low as Amsoils? can u tell us y, and a little more about this new found proof.

others will swear up and down that this GC isnt a Hydro-Cracked oil. and im not talking just forum dwelers, but race teams ect...

i know Amsoil is so far the best oil i have ever used and continue to use, but im justt looking for some pros and cons about this GC.

o and we (here in NY) see it at $6.50 a quart and sales happen once every few months where u can get it at like $4 a quart.

 

From what I remember, GC is not hydro-cracked like the domestic made Syntec. You can purchase either in the 0W-30, but you'd have to read the bottle as to where it is made.

I decided to try GC after reading about it. Went from M1, to PP, then to GC. The engine runs much smoother with GC, but also note that MPG went down a bit (~1 mpg).

While it's rated at 0W-30, in reality, it's on the high side of a 30-weight/ low side of 40-weight.

When doing my oil changes, M1 and PP always seem to be a bit thin, but GC never had this problem (OCI @4.5-5K miles)

I've never tried Amsoil. (looking at their oils, I wouldn't know where to begin, either)

 

I am a little short on time at the minute but a quickie here...

I looked up the MSDS last night for German Castrol, and that is what I took what I copied to here from.

A True Synthetic has a much broader temp range than a petroleum regardless of weight.

A petroleum oil will be frozen at -40 to the point that you can lay the bottle on it's side, cut it in half and all you have is a gel. Look at the pour point of our 0W-30 and it is greater than -60... I think -65 pulling it off the top of my head.. Even out 10W-30 has a pour point of somewhere around -55.... again, just off the top of my head..

And $4.00 for a qt of pure synthetic ?? No way... there are some fine points in the law.. Now get this... one of them is that to be called 100% Synthetic, you only need 30% Synthetic, that number I know for sure, I think it is 60% Hydro-Cracked and the rest in additives, to be able to be called 100% Synthetic...

That is our Law Makers and Lobbyists at work for you..

Doc

>

 

ok well we know that Royal Purple and Redline are the other only "true" synthetics that we know of, so is there anyway u will post there MSDS charts?

i just want to see if they have a much broader temp range than this GC like Amsoil does.

i just want some hard evidence.

 

No references = no proof.

The Syntec 0w30 manufactured in the states is not the same as the German imported syntec 0w30. There are actually 3 castrol syntec 0w30 forumlations out there, the US blend, the green GC and the gold GC. The US is a certified hydrocracked variant. I'm not saying the GC is, or is not hydrocracked. But I couldn't even hand in a book report in 5th grade without references.

Hell, I'd be MORE impressed to find GC is hydrocracked, as I have seen many people switch from the TSO to GC based on consistently better UOA's (I don't care to elaborate on that and make this a long winded debate over UOA's - we can assume the end user has made the best decision based on their individual findings). And the SSO better be 'better' than GC at the price it costs.

EDIT, had a second question for doc: Just wondering; If the calling card of this SSO is the high TBN, why would one care if we don't go over say 5k mile drain intervals? I'm all about using/wanting the best, but it's all relative and saying the GC is inferior because it freezes at 20 degrees less than SSO - all the while these numbers are so far below normal environmental temps...cmon.

 

Yea I'd be up to try something new. Actually I've been thinking of trying Amsoil as soon as I run out of GC. I've got about 3 more changes left.

 

Oil Doc, which Amsoil do you recommend for the Evos? i am currently putting Mobil1 10w-30 in there.....Would you stay 10w-30 or go with a 0w-30, or what?

 

mobile 1 sucks huge sasquash penor compared to any TRUE synthetic, except RP. RP sucks just as bad and it cost 2x that of mobile.

im about to try the new SSO. give me 500-1000 more miles on my "new" motor and i will have it in and give a full report of how the car feels/sounds.