FP RED vs 35R
why not?!? it has also made 470 on trent's car with the following mods;
FP EVORed Turbocharger 10.5 single puck with HP actuator, unported.
FP4R camshafts, both intake and exhaust.
Adjustable exhaust cam gear
FPBeehive springs, stock retainers
ARP head studs
Bsuchur Race FMIC
850cc Delphi injectors
342 fuel pump
PMAS airflow meter with open filter (hot air intake system)
Works 3” cast O2 housing
Works 3” DP
3” test pipe
3” catback
TiAl BOV, the new Q one 11psi spring
Excedy twin cermic HD clutch
Motec M800 ECU (they do not offer a knock control module, aint that stupid?)
A host of R&D sensors throughout the engine compartment, all data collection.
Non Mods List:
Stock intake manifold
Stock head (no porting)
Stock shortblock
Stock Turbo Air inlet pipe
Stock upper IC pipe/hoses
Stock throttle body
Stock exhaust manifold (no porting)
Stock ignition system and coils
FP EVORed Turbocharger 10.5 single puck with HP actuator, unported.
FP4R camshafts, both intake and exhaust.
Adjustable exhaust cam gear
FPBeehive springs, stock retainers
ARP head studs
Bsuchur Race FMIC
850cc Delphi injectors
342 fuel pump
PMAS airflow meter with open filter (hot air intake system)
Works 3” cast O2 housing
Works 3” DP
3” test pipe
3” catback
TiAl BOV, the new Q one 11psi spring
Excedy twin cermic HD clutch
Motec M800 ECU (they do not offer a knock control module, aint that stupid?)
A host of R&D sensors throughout the engine compartment, all data collection.
Non Mods List:
Stock intake manifold
Stock head (no porting)
Stock shortblock
Stock Turbo Air inlet pipe
Stock upper IC pipe/hoses
Stock throttle body
Stock exhaust manifold (no porting)
Stock ignition system and coils
Sunoco 110 octane
Maximum boost 33-34psi with slight compressor surge to 5000rpms
Spoolup 3800rpms
32psi @ 4000rpms
27.6psi @ 8000rpms
FP EVORed Turbocharger 10.5 single puck with HP actuator, unported.
HKS 280 280, both intake and exhaust.
Adjustable exhaust cam gears 0/0
stock, stock retainers
ARP head studs
Ported coated manifold
Stock FMIC
745cc TTP injectors
342 fuel pump
Megan Tubular O2 housing
Megan 3” DP
Megan 3” test pipe
Megan 3” catback
Forge Evo 15 valve
ACT HDSS clutch
Stock ECU Custom tune by TTP-Engineering
Stock intake manifold
Stock head (no porting)
Stock shortblock
Stock Turbo Air inlet pipe
Stock upper IC pipe/hoses
Stock throttle body
Stock exhaust manifold (no porting)
Stock ignition system and coils
DOH, SOLD!!! 500+/500+ on a daily driver that looks stock except of course an intake that can be CARB approved. A perfect California platform
^ Wow, nice results Scott! You had quite a day yesterday
Well yall shouldve known it would just be a matter of time before someone would ask about this comparison. The 35R is tried and true and has become a very potent turbo upgrade in the Evo community, especially the HTA version. The FP RED comes from a very reliable company, has already made over 500whp, and is prolly the best DOLLAR FOR DOLLAR turbo in the evo community. In my opinon, i think the red has virtually eliminated the reason to go 50trim or 30R. Again BOTH are geat options. I would say that on a stock block the decision would be very tough. Im sure people will make the argument of, "why look at either one if your stock block?" Most people wont admit it but theyre prolly more 35R stock block set-ups than built block set-ups. Yall chime in...
Price: RED
Availability: 35R
Supporting mods: SAME
Spool-up (for daily driving): ???
Stock block pump power: ???
Stock block meth/race power: ???
Built motor pump power: ???
Built motor meth/race power: ???
Price: RED
Availability: 35R
Supporting mods: SAME
Spool-up (for daily driving): ???
Stock block pump power: ???
Stock block meth/race power: ???
Built motor pump power: ???
Built motor meth/race power: ???
lmfao you cant be serious
He is serious. Not every person out there with a 35r is a buschur hta powered 550+hp pump gas monster. In fact there are MAYBE what, 12? I bet a lot of the average 35's are right in the same power zone as the red is right now. Just slapping on a bigger turbo doesn't mean you're automatically one of these rare beasts.
As I stated in the other thread these #'s are great A+++ to the Red.
I may be going on a limb but a 35R should kill these #'s at 33-34 psi. Stating what everyone else has that the red is the ultimate RR/Autox turbo but it will not hold a candle in the 1/4 or on the street
As I stated in the other thread these #'s are great A+++ to the Red.
I may be going on a limb but a 35R should kill these #'s at 33-34 psi. Stating what everyone else has that the red is the ultimate RR/Autox turbo but it will not hold a candle in the 1/4 or on the street
I may be going on a limb but a 35R should kill these #'s at 33-34 psi. Stating what everyone else has that the red is the ultimate RR/Autox turbo but it will not hold a candle in the 1/4 or on the street
I'll tell you why I decided to try something different. There are a few 35Rs in the 9s. There's a Green in the 9s. There are a number of 35Rs in the 10s. There are Greens (and probably stock Evo IX turbos) in the 10s. In point of fact, not one in 100 Evos is running under 11.5 right now, no matter what turbo they've bolted on... It's a combination of matched parts that makes a car fast, not just the turbo of choice, and your choice needs to match your range of intended uses.
The Red will be much easier and more pleasurable to drive than a 35R for 90% of what non-dedicated race cars are used for. It comes on boost much quicker, which means it will not be as hard to launch, less likely to bog, and its transient response will be much quicker below 4200 or so, when most 35Rs are just starting to build significant boost (at sea level -- higher up here). The area under the curve favors the Red below 5500 as well, although an HTA35R does better than a normal 35R in that comparison.
Will a 35R at full tilt develop more HP? I suspect so. Will it translate into being faster? Depends on where you use it and your matching driving skills. Will the 35R overall characteristics be more optimum for many people's builds? Not nearly as black and white an answer there.
Ok you def have some good points in there as you usually do. Your alltitude is certainly a limiting factor in you running the 35R how much so vs. sea level you propably know better than me the red seems like it will surely help your goals.
Full tilt doesnt really matter to me cause I DD my car and wil hardly ever be there. I thought I settled on the PT61mm BB but maybe will have to see some more data from this red first. POPCORN OUT
As for TTP's #'s though being really impressive for the cars minimal mods I feel a 35R should be able to top them. Sick TQ on that car though
Your alltitude is certainly a limiting factor in you running the 35R how much so vs. sea level you propably know better than me the red seems like it will surely help your goals.Full tilt doesnt really matter to me cause I DD my car and wil hardly ever be there. I thought I settled on the PT61mm BB but maybe will have to see some more data from this red first. POPCORN OUT
As for TTP's #'s though being really impressive for the cars minimal mods I feel a 35R should be able to top them. Sick TQ on that car though
I think that the best single thing that a Evo owner looking to upgrade can do is find a couple cars in his area (or somewhere within an hour or two, if possible) and just ride (or drive, if the owner will let you) a couple cars with different turbo setups, so you can really get a feel for how much of a tradeoff you're willing to live with between smaller turbos with quick spool and larger turbos with dead below 4000/huge top end characteristics. Once you've experienced both, it makes it much easier to choose what's the best for your uses... 
I respectfully disagree. I've pulled off a 35R kit in order to install a Red. The reasons are (1) slow spool at 5000 feet elevation for the 35R (2) lack of torque and HP under the curve under 5000 RPM and (3) limited fun under 5000 RPM, making the car a narrow use vehicle.
I'll tell you why I decided to try something different. There are a few 35Rs in the 9s. There's a Green in the 9s. There are a number of 35Rs in the 10s. There are Greens (and probably stock Evo IX turbos) in the 10s. In point of fact, not one in 100 Evos is running under 11.5 right now, no matter what turbo they've bolted on... It's a combination of matched parts that makes a car fast, not just the turbo of choice, and your choice needs to match your range of intended uses.
The Red will be much easier and more pleasurable to drive than a 35R for 90% of what non-dedicated race cars are used for. It comes on boost much quicker, which means it will not be as hard to launch, less likely to bog, and its transient response will be much quicker below 4200 or so, when most 35Rs are just starting to build significant boost (at sea level -- higher up here). The area under the curve favors the Red below 5500 as well, although an HTA35R does better than a normal 35R in that comparison.
Will a 35R at full tilt develop more HP? I suspect so. Will it translate into being faster? Depends on where you use it and your matching driving skills. Will the 35R overall characteristics be more optimum for many people's builds? Not nearly as black and white an answer there.
I'll tell you why I decided to try something different. There are a few 35Rs in the 9s. There's a Green in the 9s. There are a number of 35Rs in the 10s. There are Greens (and probably stock Evo IX turbos) in the 10s. In point of fact, not one in 100 Evos is running under 11.5 right now, no matter what turbo they've bolted on... It's a combination of matched parts that makes a car fast, not just the turbo of choice, and your choice needs to match your range of intended uses.
The Red will be much easier and more pleasurable to drive than a 35R for 90% of what non-dedicated race cars are used for. It comes on boost much quicker, which means it will not be as hard to launch, less likely to bog, and its transient response will be much quicker below 4200 or so, when most 35Rs are just starting to build significant boost (at sea level -- higher up here). The area under the curve favors the Red below 5500 as well, although an HTA35R does better than a normal 35R in that comparison.
Will a 35R at full tilt develop more HP? I suspect so. Will it translate into being faster? Depends on where you use it and your matching driving skills. Will the 35R overall characteristics be more optimum for many people's builds? Not nearly as black and white an answer there.
CO_VR4,
It's nice to see someone post some credible opinions who has both turbo's to do so. This Red is really starting to shine with the lastest data making it onto the forum. It will be very interesting to hear about your testing/comparison's in detail at some stage.
I find your posts very good reading, well thought out & educational mate.
Cheers Steve
In our experience, we feel confident in stating that the Red consists of a proprietary compressor wheel with a TME titanium shaft. We believe this to be the reason for the ultra fast spoolup and the reason the EvoGreen appeared laggy. We have tuned TME 6.5 shaft turbos before and the red exhibits the same characteristics as the TME based turbos.
We also believe that the reason that the HTA Evogreen threads fell of the face of the earth was simply because they tested the HTA Evogreen to such success that they gave it a whole new name. Hence the "EvoRED".