Evo 9 blown...any ideas why
[QUOTE=mifesto;6331386]curiosity is, who is to blame? did he warn you he wont be responsible or did he assure you? if he played the "im a wanna-be pro tuner" string with you, i say he should be a good friend and at least assist with $$$ on a replacement motor.
In a perfect world he would assist with money on the build. He has however done alot of work on a few other projects of mine for free that would have cost me hours and hours of time or moeny to have someone do it.
In a perfect world he would assist with money on the build. He has however done alot of work on a few other projects of mine for free that would have cost me hours and hours of time or moeny to have someone do it.
Why an aftermarket ECU? Not sure how or why you decided to do an aftermarket ECU, but there's no reason to run one for anything other than a ***** out 800+ whp engine. Aftermarket ECUs have no where near the capability to protect your motor from a bad tune, bad gas, bad fuel pump, etc. Rebuild you more, reinstall the stock ECU, and hand the car over to a reputable tuner with experience tuning the stock ECU (RRE, razorlab, Harman, Tuning Technologies, etc)
+1
Had this question been asked a couple of years ago, the answer would have been everybody. Now, having there been countless hours of R&D through the efforts of countless individuals and companies, it's now a possibility. It's still new territory for a lot of people, especially me.
The biggest detractor, for me at least, aside from the previous inability to convert to speed density, is the lack of real-time tuning. That is, making adjustments to the maps WHILE the car is in motion and operation vs. having to run it, stop, shut it off, turn it back on just to make an adjustment.
The biggest detractor, for me at least, aside from the previous inability to convert to speed density, is the lack of real-time tuning. That is, making adjustments to the maps WHILE the car is in motion and operation vs. having to run it, stop, shut it off, turn it back on just to make an adjustment.
#4 piston is melted, how can this happen without knock? During normal combustion there is a layer of gas (mainly HC's) which protect and cusion chamber surfaces from the temperature. When the shock from detonation is high enough the layer is shattered and now the temperature will travel through the area melting everything in it's path (your #4 piston). With the piston glowing hot during the next compression event autoignition will happen while the piston is still moving up. The shockwave shatters the sparkplug and bounces around (as shown in the photo) until engine is turned off or until you hear parts splashing into the oil pan.
Knock control: You may never obtain a level of knock detection there car had in it's bone stock state. Detection is on line only during a small portion of the expansion stroke for each cyl including about 15 - 20 more variables not completely capable of obtaining even with aemems.
Good luck with your rebuild, looks like you still have a block to wrk with
Knock control: You may never obtain a level of knock detection there car had in it's bone stock state. Detection is on line only during a small portion of the expansion stroke for each cyl including about 15 - 20 more variables not completely capable of obtaining even with aemems.
Good luck with your rebuild, looks like you still have a block to wrk with
The stock ECU can make your car idle very well with a big turbo and big cams and up to 1200 cc injectors. I am currently running 1000 cc injectors and my idle is great.
There are some on this board who are running with the stock ECU and a MAFless set-up. Ditch the EMS and go back to the stock ECU. Go to a good tuner. I do not recommend TT or Harman unless the Harman tuner is Scott (not scot grey. I do not recommend him either).
You first mistake was going with an EMS in the first place. Second mistake was getting tuned w/o a wideband. Third mistake was letting your friend tune it.
I agree that the block looks good. You could take it 20 over and toss in a stroker kit for pocket change compared to buying an already built block from a vendor.
If it were me.... I would sell the AEM install the stock ECU then do a 20 over but remain a 2.0L. That would be the bare bottom out of pocket expense.
You should post pics of the valves. Odds are if you had spark plugs bouncing around as well as piston chunks .... at a minimum you need a valve job and maybe even valves.
Might be cheaper just to get a used low mileage stock motor.
If it were me.... I would sell the AEM install the stock ECU then do a 20 over but remain a 2.0L. That would be the bare bottom out of pocket expense.
You should post pics of the valves. Odds are if you had spark plugs bouncing around as well as piston chunks .... at a minimum you need a valve job and maybe even valves.
Might be cheaper just to get a used low mileage stock motor.
I agree that the block looks good. You could take it 20 over and toss in a stroker kit for pocket change compared to buying an already built block from a vendor.
If it were me.... I would sell the AEM install the stock ECU then do a 20 over but remain a 2.0L. That would be the bare bottom out of pocket expense.
You should post pics of the valves. Odds are if you had spark plugs bouncing around as well as piston chunks .... at a minimum you need a valve job and maybe even valves.
Might be cheaper just to get a used low mileage stock motor.
If it were me.... I would sell the AEM install the stock ECU then do a 20 over but remain a 2.0L. That would be the bare bottom out of pocket expense.
You should post pics of the valves. Odds are if you had spark plugs bouncing around as well as piston chunks .... at a minimum you need a valve job and maybe even valves.
Might be cheaper just to get a used low mileage stock motor.
The stock ECU is VERY GOOD at protecting your car from knock, bad gas, etc...The safety features in the stock ECU are WAY better than those in the EMS.
The stock ECU can make your car idle very well with a big turbo and big cams and up to 1200 cc injectors. I am currently running 1000 cc injectors and my idle is great.
There are some on this board who are running with the stock ECU and a MAFless set-up. Ditch the EMS and go back to the stock ECU. Go to a good tuner. I do not recommend TT or Harman unless the Harman tuner is Scott (not scot grey. I do not recommend him either).
You first mistake was going with an EMS in the first place. Second mistake was getting tuned w/o a wideband. Third mistake was letting your friend tune it.
The stock ECU can make your car idle very well with a big turbo and big cams and up to 1200 cc injectors. I am currently running 1000 cc injectors and my idle is great.
There are some on this board who are running with the stock ECU and a MAFless set-up. Ditch the EMS and go back to the stock ECU. Go to a good tuner. I do not recommend TT or Harman unless the Harman tuner is Scott (not scot grey. I do not recommend him either).
You first mistake was going with an EMS in the first place. Second mistake was getting tuned w/o a wideband. Third mistake was letting your friend tune it.
Well I have yet to hear of anyone using the stock ECU and a MAFless set up. Please let me know who can possibly do that set up for me cause that can be a option.
As far as my 3 mistakes at least 2 of them will never happen again and then that will eliminate the mistake of using a EMS.
Well I have yet to hear of anyone using the stock ECU and a MAFless set up. Please let me know who can possibly do that set up for me cause that can be a option.
As far as my 3 mistakes at least 2 of them will never happen again and then that will eliminate the mistake of using a EMS.
As far as my 3 mistakes at least 2 of them will never happen again and then that will eliminate the mistake of using a EMS.
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