Great to see you running a Holset colonelfox. Very few EVO's seem to give this underrated turbo a chance. Picture below is an HX40 installation currently in progress. More pictures and details of the difficulties encountered will come in separate thread once the project is done.

 

So some more closeups of the beast going in the VI...

 

I did get some pics of my setup today and a few I had from the initial install. Sorry for the delay. I haven't had free time in weeks.


You can see where I took some material off the hotside to allow more clearance for the O2 sensor. Probably wasn't necessary if I had made a better O2 but I wanted to use an off the shelf DP that I cut and added a vband flange to.


This is the flange I had to machine with the original version and the stock flange.

 

Anyone else running a holset or have more pics of setups? That hx35 looks huge

 

I have been thinking on this for a while now and may just end up pulling the trigger this winter.

 

It's pretty large in diameter but the compressor housing seems thinner than any of the Garrett setups I've run. I love this turbo, I'd highyl recommend it if you're able to handle the bit of fabrication it requires. It might be a better fit with a cast T3 manifold that some vendors make and in that case, it's probably just a custom downpipe that you have to make.

 

Problem seems to be that the European, or more like the Finnish variant of hx40super is not available in the states. AFAIK the Us. specs Super40 ulizes the "upgrade" 7-blade compressor wheel, but the turbine wheel is the same as in the normal HX40, the 12-blade wheel.
http://www.turbotekniikka.fi/images/...hx40/kuva4.jpg
The Finnish version utilizes the 10-balde, which according to few DSM-visemen has not been seen in Us.
http://www.turbotekniikka.fi/images/...hx40/kuva3.jpg
The 10-blade according to tests flow around 10-15% less, but is far more "responsive" and also equates to much lower spool.

In my daily driver (saab 2.3) I had the Finnish variant Hx40super and it gave a equal spool with #16 housing in a twin scroll manifold as the previous turbo 3071 ar. 0.86 (T25 flanged), thus reached more than 100bhp at higher revs.
My second car (saab 2.0l) utilizes the same turbo also and was previously with #14 housing then upped to #18 housing. Made 601whp on rollers and trapped 191.4 on standing mile
http://www.stcf.net/ProjectX/run3.jpg
More info of the car HW and performance figures you will find here.
http://www.stcf.net/Tribute_2x4.pdf

With the comment more "responsive" I meant that for instance after a gear shift the return is immediate, like in this manner, i.e. a characteristecs that many complain is not good in semi-truck turbos like holset
http://www.stcf.net/example_run.jpg
This turbo was in use for 3years all the time without a BOV, ran hard, but when pulled out to make room for a bigger one condition more than good, no evident bearing play.

Next turbo willl also be a Holset, since personal experices of the bang for the buck have been more than good and as long as I the meet up with the expectations I personally dont see a reason why to pay triple money for something else.

 

Awesome write up on the saab. I rode in a special black rally edition 900 turbo several years ago. It really impressed me at the time.

 

Wow, I'm honestly surprised to see this thread take off like it did. Honestly for a while I gave up on the entire idea, until a couple of months ago when I came across a friend of mine upgrading his '05 Dodge cummins turbo. So, $200 later I had a minty fresh 9cm HY35 with the 7 blade compressor wheel, anti-surge housing, and a massive 4" v-band exhaust off the hotside, all with under 28,000 miles on it. I also picked up a monstrous side/top mount manifold that I have to change the t4 flange to a t3, but it's an equal length large runner design with a burns collector and set up of an external wastegate (also for around $300)

Now that I'm fully on a stock ecu Speed Density swap, I should have no major tuning issues (and hopefully no major fitment issues either lol) and I plan on porting the crap out of the 9cm housing to see just how much I can get it to flow while keeping the quickest spool time possible. I know the top-end flow won't be there compared to any of the twin-scroll holset variants, but I'm a big fan of mid-range torque and a very usable curve so this should be an interesting build. Right now my biggest hold up is funding (in a sense). I still have to swap out my clutch, but since I'm getting older and lazier I'm paying a friend at a transmission shop to do it...which is hold up #1. Number 2 is my job (I work crazy overtime), and not to mention winter is not the most enjoyable time to work in an unheated garage, and since it's pretty much still my daily driver I need to have everything together and be able to fab it all in one shot in one weekend (very do-able, used to build complete Honda turbo setups from scratch in 2 days).

I'll make sure to keep everyone up to date with pics and such when the build actually begins, along with the results at the end.

 

I think it's fantastic to see so much interest in this setup. It's turned into the best power mod I've ever done to my Evo after all the different engine/turbo configurations I've had over the years.
I was in the same boat as you time wise. I did the initial fitament one weekend then threw the stock setup back on. I did the hotside and O2 housing fabrication that was needed then did the final install a few weekends later. There were a lot of bumps in the road since it was what I thought to be a one of a kind install in an Evo, but none of them were difficult to overcome. The only real downside is the slightly different flange they come with from the factory. Its very close to the garrett but just a little difference in the hole pattern. I should have just had a V-Band downpipe made up or machined a garrett housing to fit. I'd like to do a basic writeup of what was needed to make it work but I'm always swamped for time. If anyone has questions please ask and I'll try to answer them here as best I can.
Going SD will make it much better I think due to the huge restriction the MAF places on the 4" intake. I planned on doing it months ago but only got as far as transferring my maps to a patched rom and installing all the hardware. I'm hooking it up Saturday and retuning as soon as I break in my clutch. It was a little daunting at first so I wanted to school myself on the conversion first.

 

The SD swap will also help me tremendously in the fact of where the turbo is going to sit is less than a foot away from the driver's side fender of the car lol. Basically enough space for a filter and that's it, but the most interesting part will be going from a 4" v-band to the 3" downpipe and making it fit around the manifold. Another interesting point will be that the HY35 has the compressor outlet coming down and facing the same direction as the inlet. With it sitting that close to the frame of the car, I'll have to come up with some quality 90* bends in 2.5" piping to mate up with my LICP.

I have to say I'm quite looking forward to this, it's been a long time since I've actually had to fabricate anything worthwhile for this car. Bolt-on gets so boring after a while lol.

 

I will be building my 2.4 setup very soon and I am using a hx35

 

You might want to look more into the HX40 instead with a 2.4 motor. I have a feeling the HX35 really won't satisfy you too much unless you strictly fast response for auto-x where peak power isn't much of an issue.


I did a lot more research into the Holset I have currently, it looks very similar to the standard HY35 with the 9cm hotside, but turns out it's much different in the long run. The actual name for it is a HE351CW...it still retains the 9cm hotside from the HY35, but uses a 7 blade HX40 compressor wheel. I got it off a newer Dodge Cummins, a 2005 model IIRC. I haven't found any flow charts for it, but if it flows close to what an HX40 flows it should be a very fun time indeed as long as backpressure isn't too high.

 

I found the flow chart for my turbo and I did the calculation with a 2.0l first and if I bumped up to a 2.4l it will work perfect. I am using it for autocross though.

 

Im building a 4g64 now as well with the HX35. It will be a torque monster geared toward autox as well.