Just wanted to see if there was anyone running any variation of Holset turbos on their evo, whether it be ranging from the smaller H1c to the popular Hx35 or even the monster HX52. In all honesty I'm getting tired of the typical checkbook racer Evo owners and I'm going a different route, more towards the DSM crowd where self-fabrication is king again. $1800 for a turbo?!? You guys are on crack, I'll take a ~$300 Holset any day that still spools like a stock 16g6 and out flows a 35r and will last for 200k miles without issues.

Show me your builds, I want to see the backyard Joe setups where the owner actually takes the initiative and had to create/fab/weld something on his own instead of grabbing his checkbook/credit card. I know I'm not the first to go this route, so let me see what you got!

 

If I could find adapter setups I'd rock one. DSMs were cool with them and theres a bimmer in my driveway with a holset hx35 with an h1c exhaust housing

 

That would be pretty sweet if a company like BEP would start to machine a housing to mate to the stock Evo exhaust manifold, that would pretty much make every Green/Red/BBK/similar bolt on turbo out there ancient history. Biggest problem is the reverse rotation that kills everything that might even be considered "bolt-on" material. The ticket might be just swapping to a BEP DSM flanged housing and trying to find a Buschur cast manifold from one of their turbo kits.

 

I am not familiar with the h1c housing. But, I do know that the 2001.5 auto tranny Cummins/Dodges came with the HY-35 which has the same cartridge and compressor housing as the HX-35, but a smaller A/R, 9.0 cm turbine housing.

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to try out a H1C with a hx35 split tang t3 housing. My buddy has a DSM and won't be using the housing, and I'll probably be grabbing the H1C sometime this week. After looking over his HX35 all I can say is that's one big ****. I figure with the split tang I can at least try and keep and spool time as quick as possible, all I have to do is source the flanges and stainless and find some time to weld it up.

 

i have a hx40

 

Holset is very popular here in North-europe. As said quite cheap, robust and works pretty well. HX40 super with t3 twinscroll seems to work well with 2.0...2.3l 4-cylinder engine.
14cm2 turbine housing for ~550hp
16-18cm2 turbine housing for 600hp+ applications.

 

Do these turbos work in our cars.. if so... what is necessary to make it work?

 

for sure they would. What you'd need is a manifold, wg and downpipe that fits em.

i've got the #14 hx40-super on mine, here is a run doing 445hp under 19psi
http://www.virtuaalitalo.fi/media/dyno.png
2.3l engine(90mm storke), 264/9.6 cams.

Bang for buck, these turbos are the best. Though with hx40 you should go for the super and twinscroll setup.

 

If the Holset uses a T3 flange; I've seen these on ebay, but I don't know how good they are???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-M...Q5fAccessories

 

Yea its kinda funny how no one really talks about these turbos. I'm interested to see what these will do on our cars...

Also do they use oil and water lines?

 

they come with water cooling, but not all of them are. the only issue I can see with fitting a holset would be the physical limitations of the turbo.. they're big. but they flow well and respond well for being as large as they are.

my buddy has one on his volvo, we were seeing 18-20 psi by 3500 rpms, and it pulled strong all the way out the top at 7500 (stock cams in the volvo). His is an hx35/40 with I believe the 12 cm housing.

An hy35 will spool up faster than that

 

See thats a volvo. On my stock turbo IX I get 28psi at 3500rpm. I like my spool quick, I wouldn't mind sacrificing a little spool for a little more up top though.

 

Only oil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60rOKUIM0gk

That is a hx40 super 16cm2 housing in 2.3 engine. ~650hp
I don't see any reason why not to get it work in evo.
physical size is similar as gt40 garret

Here is a picture
http://www.turbotekniikka.fi/images/...hx40/kuva1.jpg

 

I've been running an HX35 for a few months now. First and foremost let me dispel some myths. Under no circumstances will it spool like a 16G on a 2.0. I see about 5 psi at 4000, 20 at 4800 and full 28-29 psi at around 5200 (at which point the words holy **** come to mind and the world starts turning under the wheels). Initially I was relying on a gauge to get an estimate but have since started using a GM MAP in anticipation of going to speed density. Looking at logs, it's nowhere near what it "felt" like in terms of spool but it's better than most large frame turbos I've run.
It will not last 200K miles. It's a turbo under immense heat and rotational stresses. These things spin up to ridiculous speeds around 200000 RPM. Nothing lasts forever at that speed and temp, but they do last MUCH longer than garrets which seems to have a very short service life.
The inlet is similar to a T3 but it's not exactly the same. A little larger but the bolt holes and inlet do line up fairly nicely with a T3 flange. The "hard part' is that it uses an odd 5 bolt outlet. Good luck finding a flange for the damn thing. I gave up and designed and cnc'd a custom outlet flange. If you have a v-band downpipe made up to fit the stock v-band outlet flange it might be better. The stock flange uses a 2.5" v-band and I wanted a 3" which brings me to the next issue. If you keep the AC and want a 3" you have to have the turbine housing shaved down on the outlet side as well. It's abnormally thick and left me with 3.25" of space between the outlet and AC compressor. That did not include a flange or outlet pipe. I had to beat the O2 housing I made into submission to squeeze it in there, and I also took .625" of material off. Then I plugged the stock wastegate opening and finally it was usable. You can get around that hassle if you forgo AC or have a shop machine a garret T3 housing to fit.
I spent something like $600 on actual parts and I'd estimate 12 hours of R&D and fab time. It's supposedly much easier if you get a custom downpipe made up to fit it, but I had to be different and do everything myself (I can weld but not well enough yet).
All that being said, this was completely worth the work because I saved a ton of money and I did something unique and very rare in the Evo community. It pulls harder than the SC61 I used to run and the evoscan #'s I see are consistantly around the 460whp area. I hope to get some real #'s later this month during a dyno day after I completely go to SD. I'm hoping for 500 WHP on pump and meth which so far seems well within reach. Totally worth every second of pain it caused me.