Just dont use Groden and your good.

 

Why?

 

I'm gonna drop in an Evo IX crank (88mm stroke, and they're 5lbs lighter than any DSM crank right out of the box) into my late 7-bolt with Manley 2.3L stroker pistons and BME 156mm rods.

88mm stroke / 2 = 44mm + 156mm rods = 200mm + 29mm compression height 2.3L stroker pistons.
Simply a long rod 2.0L.

 

Apparently a lot of teams run BME Forged Pistons.
http://www.bmeltd.com/pistons.htm

 

I'm not sure why you guys think I'm retarded and don't know simple engine block mathematics.

Some where someone, thought I was trying to use a 100mm stroke crank with 2.3L pistons and 156mm rods in a 4G63.
The friggin piston would stick proud of the deck by 6mm, not good.

That adds up to my 235mm which is exactly the motor I build someday.
235mm is the deck height of a 4G64...
And I will build a long rod 2.4L someday with all Magnus Internals!

 

And there you have it.
I should have known this, I've been researching Carrillo rods for weeks now.

 

I also had it in my mind that you were using a 100mm crank. If you're using an 88mm crank, you're ok. I should know, that is my setup (read my signature).

But that doesn't necessarily mean we don't think you're retarded...

 

We are now using GRP's.. We have a buddy whos been using GRP for years on his 1350whp powerglide Supra and hasnt broken 1 yet.. Not to mention the big names on GRP's site... Glidden, Jegs etc.. Figured we will give them a shot now.. I still have my eye on the R&R though..

http://www.grpconrods.com/

 

wtf

 

Just kidding, you set yourself up for that one.

In all seriousness, the long rod setup works well, and is my preference for any 2.0L.

 

Carillo are some of the lightest of the steel rods.. Definitely a great steel rod.. We use them in all my bikes and if not we use Arrow for some of the all motor setups..

Mike

 

I agree with Ted, somehow I read 2.0LR and thought 2.3LR...my bad, then repeated it where it was further repeated.

 

No big deal guys...
I've been back and forth on what set-up I want to build.

First it was venerable 2.3L stroker, but then I saw the torque curve of many dyno plots, and didn't like.

Then I wanted to run a 94mm Eagle Crank with 2.3L pistons and custom 153mm rods, which still may happen someday.

Now, I'm all over this 2.0L Long Rod and for the price Bill quoted me for the BME rods, I can't give this a shot!
The torque curve of the 2.0L long rod on 23psi with an HTA3582R in an Evo was pretty damn impressive.

I've also been researching the affects of long rod vs. short rod motors.
This is a great read if you haven't already.
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm
Sure it deals with V8's, but you can still figure out what will work with your motor combo.

Ted B, I see you have a Twin Scroll HTA3582R.
How's that puppy run with your set-up.
I'd imagine since you have a long rod set-up, your motor doesn't have much bottom end with your head being ported out like it is.
But I bet it runs up to 9k and pulls the entire way and doesn't run out of breath.

What are you thoughts on this?

Where would you say a stand 2.0L Evo can full spool an HTA3582R with the T3 .82 A/R housing?
I've also been interested in the Twin Scroll T3 .78 A/R housing, again, what are your thought?

 

TS T3 .78 A/R is too small for any GT35R variant except for maybe 91 octane street use. Even the TS T3 1.06 will be on the small side. I wouldn't consider anything less than a TS 1.06 T4 for any GT35R sized turbo or larger. With that setup, I see 20psi by 4000 rpm with E85.

My long rod 2.0L isn't down on torque at all. It has stronger low speed torque than my previous GT35R with single .63 A/R T3 ever did, despite 12mm lift cams and a head that is ported to the limit.

In actuality, the long rod mod improves the R/S ratio only by about 4%, which is nominal. I wanted the smaller, lighter piston and the resulting 1.77 R/S ratio is closer to what I'd consider as ideal for a street engine with turbo capable of delivering power beyond 7500rpm.

 

Anybody ever tested a long rod vs. short rod motor with no other change besides the rods/piston pin height? The 4G63 has a pretty long rod as is.

I tend to see the long rod setup as simply something that packs on the price and likely offers minimial gains if any at all. It also reduces your options should you have a failure in the future.