^ Im only really looking for a bolt on turbo as I have a good dump/front pipe setup ATM..

Im still wondering how the all aluminium bottom end + 9.5:1 CR would go.. 2.0L...

 

Forgot about your thread for awhile there....

No. Its a standard AMS 2.0L bottom end but there are no balance shafts. Fifth gear had full spool of 21psi by 3200 (compared to my previous statement I thought of 3400) I am only running the stock boost control with the AEM at the moment. I may go MBC to crank it up. But with the 8 turbo (I did switch to a single 10.5 hotside during the build) I dont want to push more than 22 psi.

What are you looking to do with the car? There reaches a point where lighter components make daily driving a pain (especially with a heavy clutch) There just isnt enough mass for low rpm, low throttle drivability...it will be easier to stall in traffic basically. Obviously for racing its great. You just have to find that balance of drivability and track.

I put alot of time into choosing my components and my car is on the verge of street car limits. I went through some bumper-to-bumper traffic the other day with wife and kid in the car. It was so hard to creep along with the cams and clutch at such low speeds. I dont know if it is the tune or the parts but I get some bucking going on unless I rev a little harder and slip the clutch. I was constantly putting the clutch in. It made me wish I had taken the CTS-V.

 

Thanks for the info!

I daily drive the car, but I do ALOT of winding road style driving and I do about 4 track days a year..

 

Have you considered removing the balance shafts and putting a knife edge on the crank (along with a fully balanced rotating assembly of course) and using standard forged parts. AMS can set you up with that on a block order.

No matter who you choose to go with for a shortblock...I would recommend AMS' balance shaft kit. They turn the shaft down (machine the weight off of it) on the oil pump side so that the oil pump bearings still get support and remove the counter weight on the other side completely. Normally you end up with a stub of a shaft. Check it out on their web page.

I am so glad I spent the money for the engine from them. Its just peace of mind. I do have a full set of BR spec JE pistons and Carrillo rods for a 2.0L with a .020" over bore. All brand new never used. PM me if you're interested. I was saving them for my spare block....but a BBK turbo sounds so good to me right now.....

Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

 

I will be getting the crank knife edged, definatly.. Im a little unsure on the balance shafts though.. May have to read more into it and have a chat to my workshop.

No, I wont be doing this myself, Ill be getting IS Motor Racing in Sydney, Australia to do the work for me.

 

I agree with Altheamans recommendation. The lightweight components will make DD tricky, so the best thing to do would be get the knife edged crank with the AMS balance shaft removal. I use the balance shaft removal kit on all shortblocks because it frees up a little power and reduces drag, drops rotating mass, etc..

 

^ But wouldnt that increase vibration? ALOT? Esp with Cams & aftermarket engine mounts?

 

You can order just the kit from AMS. http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/p...cat=300&page=1 If you are already in the engine that deep....I would do it. Also one less belt to have on there to screw the timing up should it break and less parts moving inside the engine. When I assembled my engine I set the timing for the oil pump even though there was absolutely no reason to. I really dont think the vibrations are felt anymore than stock. But it was so long since I drove the car from when it broke till I got it fixed my reference point is not that good. After 700 miles with the new engine I just checked the torques on the tranny bolts and nothing was loose. I will probably inspect all the pulley bolts next day off I get.

It sounds like you are headed in the right direction with your plans.

I went 2.0L because I wanted the ability to rev the engine without worry. The 2.3L is a strong motor but has its limits with the rpm range. I also think that with all the recent stock based turbos on the market, trying to gain additional spool by using displacement is an added expence that I didnt need. But thats just me.

 

I did forget to mention that part. You might notice some, but probably not much. You know what they do, but if you understand HOW they work, you know that these days they arent needed that much, especially if you have everything balanced during a rebuild.