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First time clutch job.

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:32 AM
  #16  
justa4banger's Avatar
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From: underground
IMO i wouldnt drop the subframe just because of how heavy it is...thats just me though
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #17  
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What would be more ideal is some how getting a ratchet strap and pulling the motor forward...that is key to get the tranny back in. I did mine...took my time a little here and there...took a week total....but I got it right. And my HDG6 was awsome...too bad my buddy piled up my Evo
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by justa4banger
IMO i wouldnt drop the subframe just because of how heavy it is...thats just me though
That's why you just lower it (leave the nuts on about 3-4 threads), instead of dropping it. We've done it both ways (lowering and dropping), dropping it can be a PITA to get the steering wheel perfectly straight when putting it back on, lifting it is easy with a jack.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #19  
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The best tip of all.. dont knock off the TOB retainer clip when re-installing the tranny.

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #20  
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From: n'at
Lollll
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:26 AM
  #21  
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HAHAHAHAHA I love the top write up. Someone sticky that.

GL with the clutch I did mine in a few hours at my friends shop the first time. Only hard part was getting that pos back in the car. It took sooooo long to put the trans back in the car without banging it around the retaining clip and disc splines <-- grease main shaft
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #22  
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From: underground
Lol
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #23  
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From: St. Louis
Originally Posted by Mr. Evo IX
The best tip of all.. dont knock off the TOB retainer clip when re-installing the tranny.

LOL...I got lucky that didnt happen to me...but getting the stock one off was a *****!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:46 PM
  #24  
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From: Bourbonnias
Originally Posted by Mr. Evo IX
A few tips..

There is a ground strap that will keep your engine from moving as far forward / down as it could. If you need a little more room remove it from the firewall on the top.

Lower radiator hose does not have to be removed.

Do not separate the ball joints (just noticed a ball joint separater on your floor). Remove the bolt clamping the lower ball joint and the control arm will come off easily without separating the ball joints.

Only the airbox / MAF needs to come out, the rest of the IC piping can stay put. I noticed you already removed it but for future notice it can stay put.

The bumper of course does not need to be removed to get the tranny out.

On 6 speed cars lowering the steering rack will give you an extra inch to get the tranny in / out without damaging the shift paddles on top of the transmission. Do not completely remove the nuts unless you want to re-align your steering wheel. (Loosen one nut at a time and put it back on with 3 or 4 threads), this will net about an inch of drop and can make life easier.

Yeah im following the evomoto step by stem and i havent ran into a problem yet!...knock on wood lol

oh i didnt seperate the ball joints haha i used that to seperate the control arm...

i took the front bumper off because i am doing other things to the car besides the clutch. aftermarket pipes and frontmount will be going back on the car. I also have that ugle headlight and bumber gap i am going to try n fix b4 i put the bumper back on the car

And my evo is a 5speed...good lookin out tho man thanks!
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:53 PM
  #25  
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From: Bourbonnias
Originally Posted by Mr. Evo IX
That's why you just lower it (leave the nuts on about 3-4 threads), instead of dropping it. We've done it both ways (lowering and dropping), dropping it can be a PITA to get the steering wheel perfectly straight when putting it back on, lifting it is easy with a jack.


Yeah i was talkin to Adam from maperformance n thats what he told me was to just back them bolts out to give me sum more room to work with...
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #26  
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From: Bourbonnias
Originally Posted by Turbo Kyle
What would be more ideal is some how getting a ratchet strap and pulling the motor forward...that is key to get the tranny back in. I did mine...took my time a little here and there...took a week total....but I got it right. And my HDG6 was awsome...too bad my buddy piled up my Evo

Yeah i am taking my sweet time with doing this clutch job cuz its my first transdrop on a car so im like double checking everything when im removing stuff....Thats sad about you car man cuz she was a beaut! My buddy had an evo and he let his friend take it for a ride and he did 100over sum rr tracks n fliped it....
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #27  
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From: Meesuhsipeee
Originally Posted by Mr. Evo IX
The best tip of all.. dont knock off the TOB retainer clip when re-installing the tranny.



LMFAO i have fortunately never knocked the clip off, but jesus if i did i can imagine i would be just like that last image
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #28  
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From: sc
Originally Posted by justa4banger
DO NOT SEPERATE THE TRANNY TILL YOU POP OFF THE TOB....happend to me and i dont wana remember this
The most recent clutch r/r my TOB did not want to seperate. Had to carbide the thing off through the 1.25" hole! Added 6 hours to the job.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #29  
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From: Bourbonnias
So i just got in from messing with the car a lil trying to get the passanger side axle off whhheennn i was walking to my tool box i grab the evomoto step by step and was just lookin at it to make sure the passanger side axle had to come out......and it doesnt it said it will just make the job easier..thank god cuz i could not get this bolt outs there and i have no idea what was holding the sucker in cuz i got the nut off and then i had a breaker bar then the impact on the bolt and it wasnt moving lol so i just put the nut back on it and left it alone

I have school till 3 tomorrow then im heading to autozone to get a puller to take the output shaft
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #30  
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From: Bourbonnias
Just got the output shaft out......like that lil box thing i made it got the job done tho



its from a shelf i just cut it in half to make a box so the puller would center with the bolt in the output shaft..

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