19 PSi till Red.. what a change!!
Originally posted by XRS-Lift
Hi. plz help me guys! I just installed my turbo xs high performance boost controller but i dont think its installed correctly because no matter what i do the boost always just keeps on going.
here is what i did.
I disconnected the 2 hoses comming out of the factory boost controller solenoid and i capped off the 2 black nipples with electrical tape and seald it off.
Removing both of these is correct, but using electrical tape is not sufficient to adequately seal anything. Buy rubber caps and tie wrap them on.
I then cut the hose going from the blow off valve to the intake manifold and put a T in it and connected a hose to that T.
You can just pull the hose off of the factory DV and install another short section of hose connecting into the "T". This way you can re-install the hose in its original location, and nothing has been modified.
The other end of that hose i put in the blue {bottom} nipple of the Turbo XS high performance boost controller. I then disconnected the hose going from the turbo and i capped that nipple off with electrical tape and sealed it. I then capped off the hose that used to be plugged into the factory boost controller soledoid to the intake and i sealed that off.
Once again man, the electrical tape is just not going to seal well, especially when you have a pressurized environment. Btw...if it leaks your boost will just continue to climb......sound familiar?
I then plugged a hose into the wastegate actuator and plugged that into the bronz nipple on the turbo xs boost controller. the bronz one has an arrow on it.
I don't know the TurboXs MBC, but one side typically has a very small vent hole in it, and this side is the actuator side of the MBC. The other side is without vent hole, and that side is the pressure source side. It looks like, based on the other posts, that your set-up is backwards. The vent hole is on the pressure source side, and bleeding boost to atmosphere and the boost is climbing(see below). If in doubt tighten the knob down and blow into the hose. the vented side will pass air, and the other side wont! Also get rid of that electrical tape and use rubber caps...seriously!
I did the pre setup like the insructions said where i turned the bronz {coarse adjuster untill the ball inside stopped moving and i turned the blue {fine} adjuster clockwise till it stopped then turned it counterclockwise twice. I hear a sound like air comming from the boost controller but dont feel anything. the vacuum is fine atidle. But when i press on the gas the boost just keeps going and going. I try to stop it when it passes 20 psi but has gone to 24 psi once. The last setting i used was the course adjuster was opened counterclockwise about 3-4 turns. The boost got to about 21 spe then a LOUD screach was heard so i gave up and parked the car. PLEASE help me guys.
Hi. plz help me guys! I just installed my turbo xs high performance boost controller but i dont think its installed correctly because no matter what i do the boost always just keeps on going.
here is what i did.
I disconnected the 2 hoses comming out of the factory boost controller solenoid and i capped off the 2 black nipples with electrical tape and seald it off.
Removing both of these is correct, but using electrical tape is not sufficient to adequately seal anything. Buy rubber caps and tie wrap them on.
I then cut the hose going from the blow off valve to the intake manifold and put a T in it and connected a hose to that T.
You can just pull the hose off of the factory DV and install another short section of hose connecting into the "T". This way you can re-install the hose in its original location, and nothing has been modified.
The other end of that hose i put in the blue {bottom} nipple of the Turbo XS high performance boost controller. I then disconnected the hose going from the turbo and i capped that nipple off with electrical tape and sealed it. I then capped off the hose that used to be plugged into the factory boost controller soledoid to the intake and i sealed that off.
Once again man, the electrical tape is just not going to seal well, especially when you have a pressurized environment. Btw...if it leaks your boost will just continue to climb......sound familiar?
I then plugged a hose into the wastegate actuator and plugged that into the bronz nipple on the turbo xs boost controller. the bronz one has an arrow on it.
I don't know the TurboXs MBC, but one side typically has a very small vent hole in it, and this side is the actuator side of the MBC. The other side is without vent hole, and that side is the pressure source side. It looks like, based on the other posts, that your set-up is backwards. The vent hole is on the pressure source side, and bleeding boost to atmosphere and the boost is climbing(see below). If in doubt tighten the knob down and blow into the hose. the vented side will pass air, and the other side wont! Also get rid of that electrical tape and use rubber caps...seriously!
I did the pre setup like the insructions said where i turned the bronz {coarse adjuster untill the ball inside stopped moving and i turned the blue {fine} adjuster clockwise till it stopped then turned it counterclockwise twice. I hear a sound like air comming from the boost controller but dont feel anything. the vacuum is fine atidle. But when i press on the gas the boost just keeps going and going. I try to stop it when it passes 20 psi but has gone to 24 psi once. The last setting i used was the course adjuster was opened counterclockwise about 3-4 turns. The boost got to about 21 spe then a LOUD screach was heard so i gave up and parked the car. PLEASE help me guys.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Southern Cali
Ok so ill definitely be using rubber caps. thats why i mentioned the tape, to find out if anyoen sees anythign wrong with it. Also, if i set the BC to the point where i can hear the ball move around, that means no boost right? So if i run the car in that setting, and the boost continues to climb, that means that something is wrong with the bc, or the problem is still the fact that i need rubber caps? By the way i REALLY appretiate everyones input.
Sorry for the wordy response but.............
If you set the MBC full open it basically passes the manifold pressure directly through to your wastegate actuator canister, which will be controlling the boost by its internal spring.This is typically around 10-11psi on our cars I believe.
Unfortunately most mbcs do have a vent hole on the actuator canister side, and when an MBC is set in full open you will still be bleeding boost to atmosphere so it can still cause erratic boost readings.
At a very basic level remember that with no external boost control at all, you could hook the compressor outlet nipple directly to the actuator and control boost in a static fashion based on actuator spring strength.
In fact when you buy aftermarket turbos they may come with this kind of hose configuration / connection in place, complete with brass restrictor in the hose. The restrictor does need to be in the hose btw as it controls pressure volume flow that helps protect harsh pressure spikes from occuring.Testing your turbo via this direct connection can provide a decent baseline.
Btw- A boost leak via electrical tape at the compressor will just waste precious boost and shouldn't be causing your boost to run high. It does needs to be corrected though.... same for your uncapped FBC nipples.
Basically the leak has to be in the boost controller line feeding the actuator, and it sounds like your controller is simply installed backwards.
When you install a boost controller all you are doing is inserting a device that fools the wastegate actuator into believing that manifold pressure of say 19psi is really 10-11 psi.
If your boost pressure continues to climb out of control, you are leaking boost to atmosphere in the controller line somewhere before the MBC. Thats why some MBC's are designed with a safety catch to ensure the adjuster knob can't totally fall-out if it comes loose.
The wastegate actuator canister will never see the target psi because boost is being bled-off before it hits the MBC/actuator and the turbo doesn't know any better and just keeps pumping away.
Hope this helps...your issue should be easy to fix.
N10S
If you set the MBC full open it basically passes the manifold pressure directly through to your wastegate actuator canister, which will be controlling the boost by its internal spring.This is typically around 10-11psi on our cars I believe.
Unfortunately most mbcs do have a vent hole on the actuator canister side, and when an MBC is set in full open you will still be bleeding boost to atmosphere so it can still cause erratic boost readings.
At a very basic level remember that with no external boost control at all, you could hook the compressor outlet nipple directly to the actuator and control boost in a static fashion based on actuator spring strength.
In fact when you buy aftermarket turbos they may come with this kind of hose configuration / connection in place, complete with brass restrictor in the hose. The restrictor does need to be in the hose btw as it controls pressure volume flow that helps protect harsh pressure spikes from occuring.Testing your turbo via this direct connection can provide a decent baseline.
Btw- A boost leak via electrical tape at the compressor will just waste precious boost and shouldn't be causing your boost to run high. It does needs to be corrected though.... same for your uncapped FBC nipples.
Basically the leak has to be in the boost controller line feeding the actuator, and it sounds like your controller is simply installed backwards.
When you install a boost controller all you are doing is inserting a device that fools the wastegate actuator into believing that manifold pressure of say 19psi is really 10-11 psi.
If your boost pressure continues to climb out of control, you are leaking boost to atmosphere in the controller line somewhere before the MBC. Thats why some MBC's are designed with a safety catch to ensure the adjuster knob can't totally fall-out if it comes loose.
The wastegate actuator canister will never see the target psi because boost is being bled-off before it hits the MBC/actuator and the turbo doesn't know any better and just keeps pumping away.
Hope this helps...your issue should be easy to fix.
N10S
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Southern Cali
thanks a LOT for all your help everyone. I managed to fix the problem by properly capping all the nipples. Now i just have to figure out how to keep the boost constant. i think all i have t do is change the spring in my forge recirc bov to yellow from green.
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