ok so its time for headstuds...but im debating on doing it the 1x1 method or taking off the head and do it.... yes ive searched, but i cant make up my mind..
i wana know what the people did to have sucess with the 1x1 method

 

The "right" way to do it is to remove the head,but the 1x1 method If done correctly and in the proper torque sequence you'll be fine.

 

i would for sure take the head off and replace the head gasket at the same time!

quoted off of Lancershop.com

"Head studs should NOT be installed one at a time with the head on the car. You risk not only warping the cylinder head, but any oil or coolant that finds its way between the head gasket can ruin the tight seal that you are attempting to make. Pull the entire head and do it righ the first time! "

 

 

my head gasket has bout 20k miles on it since it was replaced by the dealership....thats why i wana do the 1x1 since i know my headgasket is not all beat up....and my compression numbers were good

 

What makes you think your motor needs head studs?

 

Do the headstods when you do your cams, wheneve that is

 

uhhh everytime i shift at wot i big puff of white smoke shoots out...lol...thats on 28psi on the turbonetics 60-1 turbo on (e85)....than i turn down the boost and my car dont throw out that smoke...

 

i have cams already

 

wana hear from the people that did the 1x1 method

 

Phuong did the 1x1 methond on my ride and everything is running smooth.
How does your new setup feel ?

 

Hummmmmm...

Does this only happen on the reservation?

I don't recall ever reading about a problem like this before. Perhaps your car is unique.

Did you check the torque on your head bolts when you did your cams?

If you already have a blown head gasket, then 1 X 1 is certainly not your answer.

 

i do not have a blown headgasket....
i think i am gona do the 1x1..

 

it feels fast
and its not even tuned yet

 

So HG is leaking? Does the coolant reservoir level go down without going back up from cold to warm? Replacing the torque-to -yeild studs with ARP's won't be a fix.

The way I see it, the stock HP engine may have higher cyl pressures during typical expected knock (from factory tune; everything stock) than the same engine pushed beyond 400WHP without knock. If you plan to push the engine to detonation levels requiring non-stretch studs maybe forged internals are needed as well. But thats just my opinion.