Crank Pulley FELL OFF WTF!!!
Mar 9, 2009, 04:50 PM
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Crank Pulley FELL OFF WTF!!!
Anyone have this happen? The 4 bolts were broken off inside the harmonic balancer or the part of the pulley connected to the crank.
I was driving on the interstate cruising about 70mph, and bam no power steering, coolant temps shot up etc...
I was driving on the interstate cruising about 70mph, and bam no power steering, coolant temps shot up etc...
Last edited by mugen777; Mar 12, 2009 at 11:43 AM.
. good luck getting the broken pieces out and use a torque wrench on the new bolts.
Mar 9, 2009, 05:04 PM
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Also when it exited out it put a huge dent in the oil filter and slightly bent the part of the oil pump housing that surrounds the oil filter
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Mar 9, 2009, 05:13 PM
#8
My bolts started backing out of the pulley. It sheared the key that aligns it to the crank sprocket for the timing belt and started digging into the bolt holes on the pulley. It started making some noise so I caught it before they fell out/broke. I got a new pulley and loctited them in and went a head and torqued them to I think 30 lbs. No problems yet.
Mar 9, 2009, 05:42 PM
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Apparently Mitsubishi does a ****ty job installing the crank pulleys because it damn near happened to me several months back (about 26,000 miles, completely stock, pulley never removed).
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
Mar 9, 2009, 06:01 PM
#11
Apparently Mitsubishi does a ****ty job installing the crank pulleys because it damn near happened to me several months back (about 26,000 miles, completely stock, pulley never removed).
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
At my next oil change I will check this as well, and I think the loctite blue would be a good idea also. I have some loctite blue in my toolbox somewhere...
Mar 9, 2009, 06:13 PM
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Apparently Mitsubishi does a ****ty job installing the crank pulleys because it damn near happened to me several months back (about 26,000 miles, completely stock, pulley never removed).
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
I heard some noise, found that my belt was jumping a groove on the alternator pulley, and, after looking into it, realized it was because the crank pulley was all wobbly. Turns out the metal-on-metal noise I also heard was 3 of the 4 bolts shearing off and bouncing around. Fourth one was also loose. They must have been loose a while because the thru-holes on the pulley were slightly elongated.
I got the bolt shanks out using some 'easy-out's' (drill a small hole in the end, tap the 'easy-out' into the hole, start turning it counter clockwise) without too much trouble, but finding replacement bolts was a pain in the ***. Who the hell uses SAE grade metric bolts? Mcmaster-Carr doesn't even carry them. Anyways, I eventually went with metric grade 10.9 bolts which are pretty close to SAE grade 8 (M8x1.25x25mm if you need the size).
I figured it was as good a time as any to slap on one of the aluminun fluidampr's, so I got that, a new belt, some lock washers, some loctite, and slapped it all back together (20ft-lbs). I've rechecked them several times and everything looks good, but I'll forever be paranoid and recheck them with every oil change.
I remember searching for this when it happened and didn't find anything, but apparently this is more common than I thought. Good luck with getting it all put back together. Oh, and I've never figured out what caused it either, but at this point I've just attributed it to ****ty assembly from the factory.
Naw man, I have it dialed in very close but still needs professionally tuned to extract some more power.
Mar 9, 2009, 08:22 PM
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Yeah the pistons were fine but i needed a new head n AMS talked me into there race head lol and now they got this new cnc ported head and im stuck with the lame handported head.....
im always a step behind! 
im always a step behind!