Spec super twin disc install
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From: South Jersey/Philly
crap, I dont know how much travel I should put. Ive moved the adjustment so much i don't even remember where the stock setting is. I have the pressure bleeder so Im sure its getting fresh fluid.
Well from how I'm reading Drifto's post, it wouldn't be getting fluid from your pressure bleeder if it was adjusted too long, so I wouldn't sweat it. Mine still gets fluid as well with it adjusted all the way out, so maybe every car is a little different. I actually found that when I adjusted mine too long the clutch pedal would stop moving before I hit the pedal stop (meaning the mc piston bottomed out), so I just shortened it a little until the pedal would bottom out at the same time the mc piston bottomed out.
Now if you push the pedal with your hand and it is stopping before that rubber pad hits the firewall, then you are bottoming out your master cylinder piston, which I can't imagine is a good thing. I just made it so that the clutch pedal still hits the factory stop, thats all.
Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Was all ready to pull trigger on this clutch until this thread popped up. It sound to me like a bigger piston is needed in master cylinder to get more travel out of TOB. yes if clutch is just disengaging enough your syncros are working over time.
I just saw this thread and wanted to drop in and provide some info. It is important to remember that a properly functioning master is a must for proper actuation of any clutch. The Super-Twin clutch kits were developed for use with the stock Master Cylinder and as many of you know there are many, many people succussfully using the Super-Twin without issue.
If you have installed one of our units and are having issues relative to actuation the you need to insure that your master cylinder is adjusted properly. I have seen the need for a new master to be installed (2-3 times) and if your original master is weak as a result of use then it should be replaced.
If you want to check the unit for proper actuation, it should require no more than 3/8" of diaphragm compression to fully release the clutch. I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
If you have installed one of our units and are having issues relative to actuation the you need to insure that your master cylinder is adjusted properly. I have seen the need for a new master to be installed (2-3 times) and if your original master is weak as a result of use then it should be replaced.
If you want to check the unit for proper actuation, it should require no more than 3/8" of diaphragm compression to fully release the clutch. I hope this info helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,


