I mean Jon is in Michigan which isn't toooo far from me. It just sucks since I'm on extremely good terms with Shep since he has helped me numerous times. Maybe I will sneak a tre diff on the car and tell shep that I don't know how it got there haha.

 

It just showed up on your door one day, and you couldn't leave it there without a good home, so you were forced to adopt it

 

Shep has stood behind his builds, and has supported folks well. Not saying TRE doesn't, though I do not hear issues with people saying they can't get a callback, email back, etc from Shep's shop.

TRE is a great diff, I have no doubt on that. Support & communication is important to me, the performance of the diff is likely similar, perhaps TRE's is built a bit 'stronger'. No harm in asking Shep (since you are so close) "Tell me why I should do your diff over the TRE?"

That question any business in competition with another should know how to answer. my two cents...

 

Basically what it boils down to is that I know what I will get from shep, a superb product and amazing service. I have always been one who likes to try something "new", in this case it's a tre product since everything else on my car is a sheptrans product. More than likely I will stick to my roots and use a shep.

 

If yoou have a good standing relationship with shep then go for it. Being local certainly helps bc if something goes wrong you can show up at his doorstep and itll be hard for him to ignore you.

Its funny bc people always complain about how its so difficult to get ahold of Jon. Sure, I've called a couple of times and was unable to reach him. But I've also spoke with him on the phone over a dozen times (at length he's a talker) Communication was excellent from him to me and I am more than pleased with his product and proud to support him.

It may be hard/ awkward to push off Shep but if you are building a racecar and want the absolute best then the answer is quite obvious in my eyes. Call me bias, but I truly believe TRE offers more.

 

agreed, why don't you give both a call and have a chat

 

I too had decided if/when I went this route I'd go with TRE but if I had Shep next door?

No way.

TRE may have nicer options, but Shep might match them if you ask him to and you already have a working relationship with him. What percentage of advantage do you think it is? 5%? 10%? I'd guess it's more like 2 or 3, if any. I like the concept of a one stop shop and going with Shep it just doesn't seem like there's any significant disadvantage to it, in that case, I'd likely let geography make my decision for me.

I love this thread. Got to stay caught up.

 

Has zero toe in the rear.

IT keeps happening... and as far as I can tell, it's no lift throttle oversteer either. It happens on revolving freeway onramps even with light throttle... it happened to me today when I threw the car around a corner... rear just turned to ice and slid to the right. No time to correct, it was very snap oversteer.

Then when going around a freeway onramp steadily with light throttle, I felt the rear get loose again.

I think perhaps you're right about the bump stops, my friend Gilbert (used to work at Mueller) says my Robispec KW's have bumpstops that are way too big and wants to put smaller ones on for me. I'm not super low but it's possible that when turning it's shifting too much weight and bouncing off those?

I will let him drive it and test it out for himself. It's very unnerving to have the car oversteer so unexpectedly. I would have to test it in a parking lot to see if it can be powered through with throttle, but usually I just countersteer and tap the brakes.

:\

 

FYI regardless if the car is AWD 4WD RWD or FWD no matter what when the backend steps out do not tap the brakes. I get that instinctively you think oh man I must be going too fast so I should slow down but its just going to screw you even more. Instead you need to countersteer and with an AWD car like the evo you need to get back on the gas to pull it out of the slide.

 

I would confirm the tire pressures on the rear. If there is a significant difference side to side, you can end up with that feeling at speed going around curves.

 

Would this fit a evo 7 jdm with ayc? Does it require new bearings, etc? What can I do to make this aftermarket rear diff work on my car? Which brand is recommended, quality, etc??

 

It will only fit if you do a full RS conversion, eg pull out the AYC diff and put an RS diff with mustache bar etc. in.

 

T.R.E.'s 12 plate Max Lock will be here on Wednesday...

Has anyone used either of the mustache bar eliminators in combination with a 1.5 way rear diff? How about a rear sub-frame?

 

I just noticed this little gem on the TRE site:

This is probably my issue. I've been filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole.

 

I have used BR's stache eliminator kit with my Max Lock. Loved it. My buddy David has AMS's stache elim kit and I believe a Shep rear diff. Also works well. I prefer the BR unit's design over the AMS unit.