Sounds normal

 

In that case I appear to be safe, I did the restack a few years ago and haven't had any leaks from the diff.

 

wanted to revisit the fluid aspect of this. Mitsu's gear oil (formerly "Diaqueen") is a oil spec'd at SAE90 - strictly speaking viscosity-wise, SAE90 ranges from 13-24 @ 100c, and 600-700 @ 40c!

synthetics, i.e., amsoil severe gear 75w90, runs ~17 @ 100c, and 109 @ 40c, in other words, in range at 100c, and a lot better at 40c.

their 75w110 is even more of a match, 21 @ 100c, 146 @ 40c. Is there any reason these oils can't be used? Anyone know what the rough temperatures on these rear diffs run? I can take some temperature measurements the next time I run and see how they actually come out.

or, anyone know the exact specifications of Mitsu's SAE90 gear oil?

::

here's a data sheet I found on Motul's 90PA - https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1290086771 -- but the specs make me think it's more of a 75w90, and a relatively light one at that

here is their 300 LS 75w90 https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1290086772

Redline lists their 75w90 as a suitable replacement to Mitsubishi's diaqueen gear oil: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4

Here is the BITOG thread on it that I just made http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...11#Post3992611

My off the cuff guess on this is that people are just pushing way too much power than what the t-case and diff have been rated for, and at the same time have been using different fluids when the failure occurred. It may be that the diaqueen sae90 is much thicker than a 75w90 and much more able to handle it.

 

I got about 15 pages into this thread and hadn't seen anything mentioned about Rallycross so I thought i would just post. I this mod recommended for RallyXing as well? I want to get the car setup for rallyx but havent had it in the dirt so I can't speak on driving characteristics yet? Any input is appreciated.

 

This mod is recommended for anyone. It's how the car is supposed to be setup.

 

the beauty also of clutch type differentials is that they can be adjusted (deactivate plates, like from the factory) to tune how aggressive you want the clutch to be. idk about rallyx per se, but in the snow, even if I start off a turn going in 2nd gear, the car will go sideways. mine may be set up a little too aggressive for rallyx.

 

Hey guys, I live in Australia and I'm wondering if this mod is equally beneficial for cars that do feature the AYC and SAYC?

Im new to evo's but the enthusiasm for this mod is interesting

Matt

 

Your car has a properly setup diff. No need for this mod.

 

^^ what the poster above said

 

Agreed, for the average car a proper 8plate setup should be great. Its the guys who autoX or track with heavily unloaded inside tires and big power that need the extra clamping to get power to the outside wheel.


It will induce lots of oversteer compared to the factory plates, enough so that we run significant toe-in to manage exit rotation. The goal is to use full throttle at exit without spinning inside rear.

 

Out of curiosity, how much toe in did you have to run after this mod?

 

is it true that our cars toe out on suspension loading as well in the rear?

 

I have measured the front toe and camber curves but not the rear one.. however, it is highly unlikely that stock car will toe out in bump in the rear... The reason for toe out in bump in front is the same.. safety.. people deal better with understeer..

 

you cant do that mod as you have a different diff in the rear..

 

Take a look again at Jon@TRE's faq page. In my recent discussions he wants redline 75w140ns in the trans and 80w140ls in the tcase AND rear diff. This is due to road racing application so you can use the 90 weight in the trans otherwise.