kyoo

iTrader: (29)

i'll probably always want the car looser on turn-in, and the car feels about perfect in sweepers & power out. so, not just a matter of tail-happy or not, depends largely on what the car is doing at the time

codgi

iTrader: (22)

The point of my statement was that you make the change if you feel it is going to solve a problem that your having. It wasn't clear from your original question if you had an explicit problem that needed to be solved or not: If you do, try the change. If you don't no need to try it.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

I have a recently installed brand new TRE MAXLOCK rear diff and I have a few questions:

1. How long does it take for the diff to break in and what should I expect to change as it breaks in? Will it loosen up or get tighter? I ask because I currently have about 100 miles on the diff and the oversteer I'm getting is way too much. The only change I made was the diff and in sweepers where I used to be full throttle and glued to the track I'm now fighting full lock drifter style and unable to put the power to the ground without the rear coming unglued. It's quite fun but not fast.

2. Is there a way to tune the lock up via gear lube? I am running OEM DiaQueen without friction modifier but unless this thing softens up I will need to try to change its behavior.

3. I understand this behavior can be induced by other variables but the car was realigned with zero toe and -1.4 camber (same as it always was). My troubleshooting included going back to the stock rear sway bar, running the tires down at 30psi and playing with coilover (ohlins) settings from hard to soft with little impact. I'm considering moving from my current 10k/10k setup back to a 10k/8k setup. Aside from a bigger wing what else can I do to increase rear grip. (I'm already running R comp tires)

I was really expecting this transformation to be a beautiful thing but at the moment I can't really call it beautiful yet. I'm willing to try some things but I can't really risk testing in walmart parking lot and I hate to being able to run as tight as I could before the change.

Be advised I do have an ACD tune and the only mode that was even barely usable was OEM snow mode. As temps climbed and my rear grip increased things got better but autoxing on cold tires had my rear end almost more forward than my front end I literally was in full lock on an oval track so it was even swinging up hill!

SWOLN

iTrader: (6)

With over-rotation, you're on the right track with Sways, and 10K/8K. Long sweeps at high mph would be aero.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

1. I'm not sure, but I think roughly 500-1,000 miles depending on usage and doing parking lot figure 8's. then flush your fluid.

2. yes there is, in general. you can use a variety of different methods to change the behavior of the lock up, i.e., with friction modifier as you mentioned. I just use 75w90, but there's a wide range of fluids. I believe in general thicker = more lockup, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

3. tough to say as your usage is ambiguous. power oversteer also depends on how much power you have first of all. not sure what you were saying about autoxing on an oval track, but a lot of what you're experiencing is totally setup dependent.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

I appreciate the feedback and will provide more input.... This is NOT my daily driver its more or less a track day toy that gets used for autox, spectator racing on circle tracks and time attack on the big track. I use the 80/20 rule so its nothing crazy I'm running 255-40-17 R1S tires with -3F/-1.5R. I'm at 430whp (mustang dyno) and I'm running Ohlins DFV with 10k/10k. The purpose of this mod was to assist with understeer on corner exit.

1. I love the idea of a break in period but its race season and my break in period is only to ensure I didn't forget to torque something after I'm confident its safe to pound ... it gets pounded. I can only assume the behavior won't change much after 500 miles.

2. Can someone please confirm thinner fluid will provide less lockup? For what its worth the DQ is dead silent but I don't really care about noise.

3. For those that needed to adjust toe in ....How much toe in is recommended?

I'm not to proud to say I'm sure some of this could be self inflicted but I'm not sure why I could power out of a corner at full boost before and now I have to drive it like a corvette. If I can't pin it like I could in a high speed sweeper then it isn't going to help me.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You could not be more wrong on the break in period. Jon shot peened your gears. Jon's recommended break in regimen that used be on his site was 5 10-15 mile heat heat cylces with a 1/2 hour of cool down in between. Then, drive easy keeping it under 55mph for the first 100 (including those 5 heat cycles), then for the next 400 miles, you can drive it normally, just no hooning. At the 500 mil mark, change the fluid, and the diff is fairly good to go.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

Noted and thank you for the info.... I followed the basic beach break in with short runs and cool downs and even the 100 mile waiting period .... but waiting 500 miles isn't happening as I barely get that on the car in a normal year. I'm okay with assuming that risk ...

Now I'm simply looking for input on my questions....

How much toe in are people running to combat excessive corner exit power oversteer?

What weight of fluid would provide the most amout of slip (least or slowest lockup)?

After break in did the diff get lock up faster or did it loosen up a bit?

Thanks in advance!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Diaqueen has friction modifiers in it already. I've found that the diff doesn't change much with whatever fluid goes in it. The break in period is really for the ring and pinion, not so much for the clutches. I haven't noticed that mine has changed, and it has about 20k miles on it. You can try a bit of rear toe in, 1/8" of total, and backing off your rear sway bar a bit.

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

This is exactly what I feared and why I've avoided doing the 12 plate weir clutch plate upgrade. Thanks for confirming. I guess I'll be sticking to stock clutch plates until they die.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like a setup issue. My car can power out of corners just fine. Even lower speed 2nd gear corners.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

This might sound like a dumb question, but did it fix the understeer issue that you mentioned? I'm asking because from what you've written, it sounds like the understeer issue was not universally occurring.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

My car doesn't have a huge issue with understeer unless you overdrive it.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

I experienced understeer when exiting a corner with heavy acceleration. It would plow when trying to make a 180* turn around a cone.

That plowing or understeer is gone. The car can be rotated with throttle ... even partial throttle almost too easily. Where I once could traverse a sweeper under full boost but slightly understeering .... I now would be fighting a full on drift.

I'm going add some friction modifier, add some toe in, play with the rake a bit by lower the rear of the car some and possibly attempt to relear how to transition into boost smoother.

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

Neither did mine... but many people have reported a dramatic improvement with this diff. As mentioned a few times this mod could require me to relearn how to drive or it could require additional setup changes. I plan to continue to test and tune.

The one thing I don't really understand is:

1. If I had the grip to exit underfull boost before while driving clean with no understeer.... why does it feel like I've lost rear grip now?