Fp Black vs HTA 3582
I have a warranty how about you
. the turbo goes i get it rebuilt and move on. You act like it going to fail within months of useage so false
am so freaking confuse what to get , i love the black because its a sleeper and it makes good TQ, but the t3 setups makes good power . the money wasted on a t3 kit could been going to something else, i want to autocross, and drag,and do daily driver,
I love both options but people seem to not look at all the facts about the situation. Lets look at all pros and cons and costs for once.
We will start with the t3 setup.
Average price with a header is approx $4500.
That includes a DP and slim fan along with the manifold and all lines to put the turbo on the car. You dont need anything else to get it going. The kits are good for anywhere from 400whp all the way up to 900whp with a simple turbo swap. These are typically DBB turbos for this price range. They can make more power on pump gas and more power overall but have some more lag.
Now lets look at FP Red/Black. Turbo costs approx $2000. An o2 dump would cost 350-450. Ported manifold is $200. If you go with a Full Race or JMFab tubular is approx. $1000! Intake for the turbo is another hundred or so. You now have $3400 or so for a bolt on turbo. If you happen to have an EVO8 add another $350 for the evo8 instal kit and the price advantage is much smaller. It is not ball bearing and it is not upgradable.
Total cost $3400-4000.
The price difference is very small considering equal setups. Nod goes to Black in terms of spoolup and cost but both are a small margin. The nod goes to the full t3 kit in terms of pump gas power, boost control and ultimate power potential but again not by a huge margin. The biggest advantaege of the t3 is ease of change. If your 900whp capable turbo is too laggy you can swap it out for a smaller more responsive turbo. I am sure FP offers a warranty on all its t3 based turbos as well as the bolton turbos. At higher boost the DBB turbos will hold up better.
I do believe the true beauty of the bolton turbos is the fact that they BOLT ON to stock parts. If you want a full header and all the other fancy stuff like external w/g and such just get a t3 kit and be done with it. I think the stock mounting and stocklike stealthyness are all the greatest parts of a bolton. Better heat management, better fitment with no issues about cracking headers and burned valvecovers or CAS's. No need for modded rad hoses or anything else for that matter. Just think of your real goals before you decide on buying something.
We will start with the t3 setup.
Average price with a header is approx $4500.
That includes a DP and slim fan along with the manifold and all lines to put the turbo on the car. You dont need anything else to get it going. The kits are good for anywhere from 400whp all the way up to 900whp with a simple turbo swap. These are typically DBB turbos for this price range. They can make more power on pump gas and more power overall but have some more lag.
Now lets look at FP Red/Black. Turbo costs approx $2000. An o2 dump would cost 350-450. Ported manifold is $200. If you go with a Full Race or JMFab tubular is approx. $1000! Intake for the turbo is another hundred or so. You now have $3400 or so for a bolt on turbo. If you happen to have an EVO8 add another $350 for the evo8 instal kit and the price advantage is much smaller. It is not ball bearing and it is not upgradable.
Total cost $3400-4000.
The price difference is very small considering equal setups. Nod goes to Black in terms of spoolup and cost but both are a small margin. The nod goes to the full t3 kit in terms of pump gas power, boost control and ultimate power potential but again not by a huge margin. The biggest advantaege of the t3 is ease of change. If your 900whp capable turbo is too laggy you can swap it out for a smaller more responsive turbo. I am sure FP offers a warranty on all its t3 based turbos as well as the bolton turbos. At higher boost the DBB turbos will hold up better.
I do believe the true beauty of the bolton turbos is the fact that they BOLT ON to stock parts. If you want a full header and all the other fancy stuff like external w/g and such just get a t3 kit and be done with it. I think the stock mounting and stocklike stealthyness are all the greatest parts of a bolton. Better heat management, better fitment with no issues about cracking headers and burned valvecovers or CAS's. No need for modded rad hoses or anything else for that matter. Just think of your real goals before you decide on buying something.
being an owner of a 35r, im starting to see it your way, the power 90% of people are shooting for can be met with a green red or black, after that your basically losing driveability.
I am very good friends with FP
I am better friends with ETS.
I have ran both products an both have a definite place in the market. Alot (to simplify) is more than just peak numbers but power under the curve. I can always make more with a fully engineered approach, but I dont always need that.
To quote an ancient, "Know thyself".
aaron
I am better friends with ETS.
I have ran both products an both have a definite place in the market. Alot (to simplify) is more than just peak numbers but power under the curve. I can always make more with a fully engineered approach, but I dont always need that.
To quote an ancient, "Know thyself".
aaron
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