Bump again! Did you guys get this resolved? I'm having the same problem, but because I'm using a push type clutch I'm thinking I have crank walk. I had my father push down on the clutch for me so I could watch the crank pulley, but man its hard to tell if its moving. Is there any tools that you guys know of to test this?

 

crowbar/screw driver and dial gauge

 

Anything that doesnt involve a dial guage? ie; force a stick behind the crank pulley then press the clutch to see if it falls out...?

 

factory limits is 0.4mm movement, standard value 0.05-0.25mm.
I'd say a dial gauge is necessary

 

I'm getting no play at all. Probably because of the ACL thrust bearings that I forgot I had.

CoastEvo: Did you ever resolve this problem? I'm starting to think its the clutch master cylinder. It makes sense since when the brake/clutch fluid starts to heat up it causes more pressure in the system. If the seal is bad, the brake/clutch fluid forces its way past the seal in the clutch master cylinder then causes a backpeddling effect into the resevior. What do you guys think?

 

Hello again! So, my problem has gotten so bad that I decided to buy a digital caliper from Advanced Auto Parts. I checked the movement and I'm at 1.04mm of play. Does anyone know or have any experience with having to rebuild the engine at a certain degree of movement?

 

If you push the clutch pedal in and it comes back up on its own, you DO NOT have crankwalk.

 

well since uve been tryin to diagnose this issue, ok lets walk through the basics, you already did a boost leak test....hopefully u put enough pressure into the system check.
other questions:
1) did you check for an exhaust leak? that can cause a lean condition?
2) did you check pre turbo for an air leak? that can cause a lean condition?
3) did you check for a vacuum leak like someone stated??
4) if you check all those n see if those pan out, get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge and see if you can monitor your fuel pressure to the rail?
5)have you replaced your spark plugs?
thats all i got so far do some more testin then report back.
good luck

 

I am more concerned with the clutch stalling issue. Any word on that ? This is an interesting case.

 

If the crank moves more than .25mm when you press the clutch YOU HAVE CRANK WALK. My clutch engagement point drops when I shift fast and will not re-adjust until I rev the engine, but it does come up.

 

Just in case anyone cares; this is what I found:

The old thrust washers are on top, and the new ones are on the bottom. I was suprised how easy the thrust washers came out by removing the cradle only. I thought I'd be able to replace the thrust washers only, but it turns out the crankshaft bearings are bad now because of the movement.

I wonder though, if I were to check it earlier when the problem first started happening, would I have been able to save the other bearings? Does anyone know?

 

Looks like a good reason to disconnect the clutch switch to me.....putting pressure on that thrust while cranking with no oil is not good. That's what i did after my rebuild.

 

Ive heard about loose engine mounts causing idle issues because of vibration issues. But i guess you would have mentioned vibration. It may be the alternator or battery? Try those.

 

Yeah I did this for a little while, but realized NLTS or (can't remember) Launch control doesn't work.

 

That's odd. In my car I unplugged the top switch and the car start fine clutchless, and nlts still works great. I'm still using tephra v5 for reference