Stalls when clutch is disengaged..
Aug 11, 2010, 09:24 PM
#46
Bump again! Did you guys get this resolved? I'm having the same problem, but because I'm using a push type clutch I'm thinking I have crank walk. I had my father push down on the clutch for me so I could watch the crank pulley, but man its hard to tell if its moving. Is there any tools that you guys know of to test this?
Aug 11, 2010, 10:59 PM
#47
Bump again! Did you guys get this resolved? I'm having the same problem, but because I'm using a push type clutch I'm thinking I have crank walk. I had my father push down on the clutch for me so I could watch the crank pulley, but man its hard to tell if its moving. Is there any tools that you guys know of to test this?
Aug 21, 2010, 10:17 AM
#50
I'm getting no play at all. Probably because of the ACL thrust bearings that I forgot I had.
CoastEvo: Did you ever resolve this problem? I'm starting to think its the clutch master cylinder. It makes sense since when the brake/clutch fluid starts to heat up it causes more pressure in the system. If the seal is bad, the brake/clutch fluid forces its way past the seal in the clutch master cylinder then causes a backpeddling effect into the resevior. What do you guys think?
CoastEvo: Did you ever resolve this problem? I'm starting to think its the clutch master cylinder. It makes sense since when the brake/clutch fluid starts to heat up it causes more pressure in the system. If the seal is bad, the brake/clutch fluid forces its way past the seal in the clutch master cylinder then causes a backpeddling effect into the resevior. What do you guys think?
Nov 23, 2010, 07:01 PM
#51
Hello again! So, my problem has gotten so bad that I decided to buy a digital caliper from Advanced Auto Parts. I checked the movement and I'm at 1.04mm of play. Does anyone know or have any experience with having to rebuild the engine at a certain degree of movement?
Nov 25, 2010, 09:47 AM
#53
Evolved Member
well since uve been tryin to diagnose this issue, ok lets walk through the basics, you already did a boost leak test....hopefully u put enough pressure into the system check.
other questions:
1) did you check for an exhaust leak? that can cause a lean condition?
2) did you check pre turbo for an air leak? that can cause a lean condition?
3) did you check for a vacuum leak like someone stated??
4) if you check all those n see if those pan out, get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge and see if you can monitor your fuel pressure to the rail?
5)have you replaced your spark plugs?
thats all i got so far do some more testin then report back.
good luck
other questions:
1) did you check for an exhaust leak? that can cause a lean condition?
2) did you check pre turbo for an air leak? that can cause a lean condition?
3) did you check for a vacuum leak like someone stated??
4) if you check all those n see if those pan out, get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge and see if you can monitor your fuel pressure to the rail?
5)have you replaced your spark plugs?
thats all i got so far do some more testin then report back.
good luck
Dec 9, 2010, 11:11 PM
#55
If the crank moves more than .25mm when you press the clutch YOU HAVE CRANK WALK. My clutch engagement point drops when I shift fast and will not re-adjust until I rev the engine, but it does come up.
Last edited by D-VO; Dec 9, 2010 at 11:13 PM.
Jan 22, 2011, 09:26 PM
#56
Just in case anyone cares; this is what I found: 
The old thrust washers are on top, and the new ones are on the bottom. I was suprised how easy the thrust washers came out by removing the cradle only. I thought I'd be able to replace the thrust washers only, but it turns out the crankshaft bearings are bad now because of the movement.
I wonder though, if I were to check it earlier when the problem first started happening, would I have been able to save the other bearings? Does anyone know?
The old thrust washers are on top, and the new ones are on the bottom. I was suprised how easy the thrust washers came out by removing the cradle only. I thought I'd be able to replace the thrust washers only, but it turns out the crankshaft bearings are bad now because of the movement.
I wonder though, if I were to check it earlier when the problem first started happening, would I have been able to save the other bearings? Does anyone know?
Feb 5, 2011, 01:37 PM
#57
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Looks like a good reason to disconnect the clutch switch to me.....putting pressure on that thrust while cranking with no oil is not good. That's what i did after my rebuild.
Feb 5, 2011, 01:47 PM
#58
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Ive heard about loose engine mounts causing idle issues because of vibration issues. But i guess you would have mentioned vibration. It may be the alternator or battery? Try those.
