^ why would you have a 2.3 when you can have a 2.4...

2.4>2.3

1) Cheaper to build
2) Better r/s ratio
3) Higher revs
4) 6mm taller deck allowing for custom builds
5) larger bore
6) More hp/tq

2.4L FTMFW

My soon to be MIVEC 10:1 2.4L Long Rod 156mm 87mm bore would walk the dog on your standard 2.3L any day of the week Rock! No pun intended... I honestly think the 2.4L is the new EVO motor or the 4G64 2.2L Long rod for people still wanting to rev above 9.5k+.

Mikey

 

wow thats your strong opinion there mike sorry baby boy my 2.3 no core required and cost less then fp black fully built all brand new everything . can handle 900 hp but im never going to get that high but still. i go after price in my case my 2.3 was cheaper then any 2.4 lol. ill watch others do the 2.4 thing when you can get a 2.4 for less then a fp black fully assembled can handle 800+hp let me know

 

Wow am i missing something? I didn't know the 4G64 block is being swapped into Evo's. I most definately gotta keep my eye on this. I might jus go buy a shell.

 

My 4G64 block is costing $350 for the core w/100mm crank and I have someone to buy my stock 4G63 block for $750. I have seen the stock 4G63 blocks with over 50k miles sold for 1k before. So you are making $400-650 pocket money just by going with the 4G64. That would pay for the rods for sure! All you need now are $400 pistons! How is the 4G63 2.3L better, maybe I'm missing something... If you can do a motor on your own, without paying shop labor, you can do it for a couple thousand and the 4G64 will be superior in performance over the 2.3L, PROVEN FACT!

Mikey

 

nope friends. ill sell or rather have already sold my shorty for 1k and my 2.3 is double that soooo im not missing out on anything ill pass again on a 2.4. ill watch others do there thing and my car will still be built and i did not spend a arm and leg for all of my parts lol

 

xroguex does buschur offer a built 2.4 4g64??

also did you drive to buschur or have your car shipped there?

 

Well I'm glad you are happy with your build. I disagree 100% with you but it's getting late and I have to get up in 3 hours so I'll let other people chime in on this one.

Mikey

 

nothing to fight about. i know the difference in the two but ill choose the more affordable route everytime lol. has nothing to do with preformace both will do there jobs well. long as its built mikey your missing that point. Yes Bruschur now offers a 2.4 lol where have you been

 

Yes, and they are cheaper than a 2.3L, ER has a 2.4L cheaper than a 2.3L, Slowboy has a 2.4L cheaper than a 2.3L, and MAP has a 2.4L cheaper than a 2.3L...

I'm not missing any point Rock. I know where you are coming from... I just have the view that a 2.3L and 2.4L are very different and in a lot of good ways. There is not one thing that a 2.3L is better on than a 2.4L. Maybe MPG. You truly get more bang for your buck with a 2.4L, since you act like you want everything cheaper!!!

Mikey

 

can a built motor be as reliable as the stock motor at stock power lever?

can one of these built motor 2.3/2.4 getting over 100,000miles if done rite?

thanks for the input everyone!

 

where did you get a 2.3 for less than the price of an FP Black?

 

I would do a 2.4L any day of the week over a 2.3L. You get a free 6mm of rod length and no downside to it. I wouldnt destroke the 2.4L as the R/S ratio goes above the "magical" 1.55/1 where it is much happier according to theory and the extra displacement is nice. If the covers all fit there is no downside.

 

No downsides to 2,4? I dont know about all that.
If you have a 2.4 block tested for wall thickness you will find thinner bores than a 2.0 block. were thick is good. Boring to 87mm leaves gasket sealing space between cylinders at a minimum. Stock head gaskets dont work with 87mm bore. I personally feel cometic gaskets suck compared to factory gasket. 6mm taller deck screws timing of gears up. so these blocks have to have cams degree'd with every cam change.
Going from 150mm rod to 156mm makes no significant change to engine performance. figures are likely 1% less side loading on piston. maybe less. I dont see any advantage of using the 2.4 blocks over a 2.0. Other than they are cheap. I would never run a block without oil squirters. To have them machined in you cost savings go right out the window. Those who say squirters are not needed with forged pistons leave me scratching my head. Forged slugs expand more than cast slugs. So if they get too big from heat you are going to scuff bores and ruin your engine. Oil cooling them would be more important than with cast slugs which dont expand much.
The section of of off the shelf pistons parts is very slim as well.
2.4 FTL if you ask me.

 

The majority of the faster ls/vtec builds have no oil squirters.

There are no oils squirters for small/big block chevy and ford motors.

Please explain how a forged slug will get too big from heat and scuff the bores ruining an engine. While explaining please provide examples of this mystical phenomenon especially examples you PERSONALLY have built not hearsay.

 

I could spend 45 minutes taking a posting pictures of the boxes full of scuffed pistons I have in the garage. I have no desire to do that for you as in the end you will still feel eliminating squirters is a good idea. And there is nothing you can say that will convince me leaving them out is smart. dedicated drag cars can leave them out. street cars need them . Period. end of discussion for me. If you want to leave them out that is not gonna hurt my feelings.