Now now, lets not have this thread turn into a flame war over OIL SQUIRTERS for christs sake. There are many threads already devoted to that topic alone. Oil squirters are a great idea for engines that will be used for road racing because these engines will end up running WOT for long periods at a time and accumulate A LOT of heat. In harsh racing situations such as these, the pistons will get very hot, and the resulting thermal expansion may cause some scuffing of the bores.

HOWEVER, there have been plenty of people who have run engines on the street or dragstrip with plenty of reliability and success, and even some who have defied all odds and used their "squirtless" blocks for road racing with varying degrees of success. The bottom line is, if you never plan on doing extended WOT runs with your engine, then maybe it might be worth it if you left the squirters out. Saying that oil squirters are "unnecessary" is like saying an oil cooler is "unnecessary". While neither are required to run a high horsepower engine, its probably a good idea to use them just in case one day you get the idea in your head to really push the engine for an extended period of time. If you plan on racing your engine (as in road racing) oil squirters are a very good idea and may save your engine, especially if you plan on doing any kind of endurance racing. In the end, oil squirters are were designed and installed in the original 4g63 (as well as many other high end engines) for a reason. If you think you know better than the industry's best German & Japanese mechanical engineers, you have to be kidding yourself.

 

That being said, I really don't see many disadvantages to the 4G64:

PRO's:
-Price. 4G64 blocks can be had for less $100 in most junkyards across the nation. They can be sourced from a variety of Mitsu's, Chryslers, or even Hyundais.
-Displacement. Speaks for itself.
-Because of the taller deck height, a longer rod can be used (optional) for a better rod to stroke ratio, which allows for slightly higher rev capability and slightly less side loading.

CON's:
-Its not exactly convenient having to source all the weird parts required for this swap, which includes the head gasket, timing belt, water pump plate, adjustable cam gears, custom long rods (optional), etc.
-The extremely large factory bore size on the 4G64 leaves VERY little left for any type of over boring. Don't count on keeping this block for long (don't count on performing multiple rebuilds of your 4G64 block). Some say this also makes the 4G64 weaker since there is less material between cylinders
-higher deck height means slightly higher center of gravity, which is bad for handling
-No oil squirters are installed in the 4G64. Get these installed by a qualified machinist, that is if you plan on doing track days or any type of road racing.

 

so it seems the 2.3l 4g63 would be the more reliable motor..

 

there we go that sums some things up nicely right there. I chose my 2.3 so i dont have to worry about crap. NO sourcing of extra material and i already know im DDing my car and will do road coursing once i get to texas so prevenative matence with oil spuirters etc is needed to be safe. I dont need to be building another built block ill pass on that.

 

really depends on what your going to be using your car for at the end of the day. read this thread as there is some really good information in here and you should be able to make your choice easily

 

If your worried about cylinder cracks and all that jibber jabber with the 4g64...

Some of the highest HP motors are 2.1's.... I dont think MAP, or davids RS or blah blah blah at 700+hp or in maps case - 1000+hp.. have any issues with cylinder wall thickness or block reliability.

 

ALSO, I took this info from a older post of mine from another thread. Here are the other vehicles you can find the 4G64 in, just in case you want to try your luck junkyard hunting for a block:

Mitsu Eclipse 2000 - 2005
Mitsu Galant 1999 - 2003
Mitsu Montero 2000 - 2003 (not sure on the years)
Chrysler Sebring 2001 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2001- 2005
Hyundai Sonata 1999-2001 (not sure on the years)

Remember, you can identify the year of the car by looking at the 10th digit of the vin, or sometimes looking in the drive side door sill of the vehicle. I wish you good luck on your quest for higher displacement!

 

It really doesn't seem that hard. Then again I find most evo owners were born with easy buttons. If it ain't easy they wont do it.

Could probably sleeve if necessary, but unless you are building some 1000whp moster you shouldn't have to rebuild if the assembly was correct and the tune was correct.

I think we all know how I feel about that.

 

I followed that build thread. Dave was not happy with the detonation thresh hold of that short block. It could just be a good example of non cooled pistons getting hot too easy. That was daves first short block so we can cut him some slack for leaving the block with out squirters.

 

The detonation is not real detonation.

His RS, doesnt have squirters.. or any other 2.1 he built.

Its a problem with knock with kelford camshafts. But will save that for another thread.

 

Interesting statement. Mechanical engineers installed balance shafts and we remove them. We replace camshafts exhaust systems tunes etc all the time.

Once again people need to just remember what kind of slugs were installed from the factory vs what is available from the aftermarket.

It seems like most here are fully aware of what oil squirters do. To say that the 2.4l MUST be built with oils squirters is FALSE!!!! You will have NO reliablility issues so long as you have a QUALITY piston and aren't an engine assembler vs an engine builder. I will go further and say you will be fine on a road course as well. If you question this look no further than the engines in the NASA honda challenge series. See how many have oil squirters. It is what I said. Insurance.

I don't think this is a flame war at all. No names have been called. It is just an internet discussion. Here is a beer.

 

SHHHH!!!!! You will ruin my closing argument.

 

I clearly stated scuffed forged pistons as just proof they expand very easy. I never said all motors built with out squirters will scuff pistons. I am not even inferring that. I just plain think its stupid to leave them out. They are very needed part of a turbo engine. You just want to argue your point its okay to leave them out. I already said you wont hurt my feelings to do so. You can delete your oil cooler too. many people have done that too with no ill effects.. even in florida.

 

Do you know what piston slap is?

 

I have seen many people state the 4G64 block is thicker than the 63 around the cylinders. Also the stock head gasket for the 4G64 works with the DOHC head so there should be no issue there. As far as aftermarket there is a Power Enterprise and Fel-Pro gaskets. If you really want a super strong block you could sleeve a 64 and make it a 2.3L and be 100% sure it is failsafe. You could even bore it extra large and put thicker sleeves in it if you were worried or cracked a block. I know the 7bolt block is much stronger than a 6bolt and people have made tons of power on the old 4G64. Degreeing your cams is a no brainer on any built motor and the oil squirters can be added easily enough and if the block ends up being the same cost and displacement with a free 6mm of rod length cant hurt anything. I would also ask the piston manufacturer if their piston is designed for the piston squirters or not and what clearances they would recommend. It may not be a routine build but it will reward a thorough build with more displacement and better R/S ratio. I love my 2.4L in my 1G and it is a "thin wall" 6bolt. The cometic gaskets do suck though and I have had many issues but I recently switched to Felpro HG and Magnus A1 headstuds. Should be good to go. My old 63 2.1L had HG issues with cometic and the FelPro gasket with standard ARP's took care of that. That was also an 87mm bore not a 86.5mm bore.

Have you seen the HG sealing surface on many other motors? The 4G64 has a bigger seal than many other engines stock.