pics of kit. Manifold will be jet hot coated before they are shipped.

 

Also since our kit is now released. We have a few corrections.


The kit we our using on our car right now is the GT L3R which is a GT35R. We rate this turbo at 650-680 hp, not whp. Just so you know.


Even though this turbo set up cna put out this much power we still get full boost by 4500-4700rpm. This is pretty amazing as it is still my daily driver.

 

First id like to start off by wishing everyone a merry christmas.. now, i was just curious about the reliability factor with either the GTL2R or the RnR L1R turbo kit compared to the factory titanium twin scroll. Because the factory turbo is water cooled and others arent, does this negatively affect the others reliability?
I only wanted to do basic reliability mods such as a power enterprise timing belt, heavy duty radiator, bigger FMIC, head studs, etc in addition to performance mods like the 264 cams and basic bolt ons. I am looking for factory reliability with the addition of more power. A relatively quick spooling, low-12 second daily driver would be perfect. i would love to have a 400-450hp evo with a safe 20-21 psi..
Perhaps it would be safer to do basic bolt ons and a better manifold to the factory titanium twin scroll.. what do you guys honestly suggest?

PS- Regardless of whether or not i go with the factory turbosetup or your turbokit, i will be using a tuned AEM EMS with the car to manage a/f and boost pressure.

 

Quite frankly, an EMS with a stock turbo is a pointless exercise in headache inducing fun. oh, it works alright, but it sacrifices what you like about having a daily driven car that does not require tinkering. If you think you can buy an EMS and stick in maps from buschur and never touch it again, your kidding yourself IMHO.

To qoute RRE on the people they want to have the EMS:

Smart guy, deep tuning knowledge, gives useful feed back, been there, done that, tired of being limited by piggyback boxes, you are on a genuine knowledge quest and live for tweaking on your car. Download the software first and familiarize yourself with it. Print out the instructions and tuning tips and actually read them. Read on the AEM EMS message board 'till your eyes bleed.

A water cooled turbo operating within its effciency range can last up to 250k miles....a oil cooled turbo maybe only 150k. But considering how hard you guys are pushing your turbos, I would not be surprised to see them start breaking in 2 or 3 years with less then 40k on the odo. An oil cooled turbo, turbo timed(oil cooled cars actually should be turbo timed, and given a 1 or 2 minute driving cool down after aggresive driving)will last the life of your car without a problem.

As for a safe 20-21 PSI....with an ems, you can make 24-25 just as safe....as long as your not detonating, the difference is marginal.

Happy Holidays.

Sean

 

The ball bearing turbos are water cooled. The regular turbos are oil cooled.


I would honestly highly suggest our 50 trim kit. It would easily give you 400-450whp and a very esy low 12 sec daily driver.



I would also stick to the s-afc for a daily driver trying to maintain reliability. The EMS is a constant effort and the power difference isn't huge at all.


Just look at my car. 493whp ona s-afc s with 15 minutes of tuning. No problems at all it still run just as good as anything.


Let me know if there are any other questions, Ryan

 

So what about the stock ignition? Is it holding up okay to that kind of power?

 

Yes, the stock ignition is holding up fine.

 

Pretty tight fit

 

How are you controlling the ignition?

 

When did it stop controlling itself? Or are we refering to ignition timing? If were refering to ignition timing then the SAFC has nothing but positive effects on it.

 

493whp? soooo close to 500. good god tho that is nutz

 

I've heard that the SAFC can indirectly induce additional timing. How exactly does it do that?

 

By putting in larger injectors and telling the ECU you are actually running lower air flow through the MAF than you actually are flowing the ECU advances the timing because it thinks you are experiancing a low load condition.

Keith

 

Cool. Thanks.

Couldn't that potentially create a lean condition and/or knock under heavy acceleration... Especially in cold air?

Damn, N/A V8s were so much easier to work on.

 

No, you get a certain amount of timing up until you reach a certain level of airflow, and then the ecu begins to pull timing regardless of whether you are knocking or not, based soley on air flow. Having the lower air flow signal lets your ecu gove you the timing you deserve based on knock