It probably has more to do with the way the engine is run in, and I doubt Mitsubishi spanks new engines hard like Porsche, Ferrari, etc. My EVO was a demo car, and had about 1k hard miles on it when I bought it 'new' from the dealer. It always made strong dyno results and never burned a drop of oil.

Maybe Mitsubishi should consider this guy's opinion ...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

After reading that article in depth I feel that using conventional oil is a good idea when breaking in the motor.

But the claim that an engine is 80% broken in within the first 20 miles is kinda farfetched.

Basically what this guy is saying is to run your engine hard for the first 20 miles or your rings will not properly seat. Has anyone else ever heard of this being a good method of breaking in an engine? Because ive always been told to baby it for the first 1500 miles.

 

and thats exactly why i tend to say that the thory of breaking in an engine with dyno oil is non-sense is old fashionned mentality.

like you stated Ted turbos do not do well at alll with pertolium based oil.

go with synthetic from day number one, for many good reasons

 

theories no hard evidense,,

i ran full synthetic on my evom right out of the box, many of my customers do the same, even non evos

 

Well, what breaks in an engine? Heat vs. time is a substantial factor, and this individual is asserting that enough heat can be generated to break an engine in in 20 miles vs. 1000 miles of taking it easy. He's far from being the only one in this school of thought.

Again, OEMs like Porsche, Ferrari, etc., run in engines at the factory, and they run them hard. They aren't the only ones. I think it's understandable why many OEMs would prefer that you baby the car as long as it's under warranty, yes? I can't imagine reading in the owner's manual that it should be run hard for the first so many miles, even if it is the best thing to do!

 

Even if a car/engine is babied for 500-1500 miles, What does it matter? It takes people about 1 month for them to run most cars 1500 miles. That's 1 month out the usual 36months for power train warranties. Doesn't make much sense even if that was/is the case. When I rebuilt mine, I babied it but also did a good amount of engine breaking and after 250 miles or so I beat it. After more than 500 miles I switched to AMS oil. No burning, no smoking, etc. I beat the car a lot, but I have not put many miles on it yet. Perhaps about 5k since rebuild.

 

Here is what AMS recommends:

http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...structions.pdf

AMS Engine Break-In Instructions

1. For the first 500 miles we suggest driving at varying engine speeds. Do not get on
the highway and set the cruise control for an hour straight. The key to seating the
rings is a variety of partial throttle and short bursts of acceleration. After
accelerating let off the throttle while still in gear, letting the engine slow the car
down. Don’t baby the car but don’t beat the hell out of the car either. A good
variety of driving conditions is the best for engine break-in.

*Make sure the car is tuned to a safe air/fuel ratio before any wide open throttle driving is done.
Running a car too rich during break-in can wash down cylinder walls not allowing the piston rings to
seat correctly.

2. Check your oil when you fill your gas tank, your new engine may consume some
oil during break-in. It is a good idea to continue to check the oil at fill ups even after
the break-in, turbo problems, heavy abuse & high boost levels will cause oil
consumption even on a healthy engine.

*Do note that engines with forged internals will consume more oil than a stock
engine so check your oil often! First Oil Change: 20 miles 10w40 regular oil

* If AMS has installed your engine the first oil change has already been done for you
Second Oil Change: 500 miles 10w40 regular oil
Third Oil Change: 1500 miles 10w40 regular oil

*You may notice a clamp on your oil filter. Make sure to re-use the clamp whenever you change the
filter! This clamp is necessary to prevent the filter from coming loose due to the added engine vibrations
when balance shafts have been removed.

From here on out you can change the oil at 3,000 mile intervals or sooner if your
engine sees a lot of abuse. You may also convert to synthetic if you choose.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask!
Special

I had my 2.3L motor built by MAP Performance... their break in instruction sheet was similar to the AMS recommendation; i.e., use 10W-40 conventional oil for break-in.

Oh, I love AMSOIL and I'm running the Dominator Racing 10W-30 now (after waiting 1,500 miles from break-in). But do what the experts say, use conventional oil for your break-in. An evo is not a scooter, so don't treat it like one.

 

Link not working but it sounds like AMS's info is the best ive heard yet. And thats what im goin to go by.

What I dont understand is why so many people dont understand that using conventional oil for break in is best.

 

When detergent oil came along, the recommended break in oil was non detergent. With the advent of synthetic oil the recommended break in oil became detergent oil. So, when something new comes along to replace synthetic oil, if the trend continues, synthetic oil will be the new break in oil.

 

perfect, i need those info for break in my brand new engine... lol

 

I agree haha! Cuz if they said the best thing for breaking in an engine is to pee in it for the first 1500 miles, people would be doin it!

 

Link fixed

http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...structions.pdf

 

Thanks for the link update