thanks for the help guys....i am buying new plugs today. im going to stick with the same ones i have but i will just change them more often.

i said "i believe" because i took the plugs out to check them and forgot to check the gap and didnt feel like taking the valve cover back off again. i will today at some point

as far as the valve springs and retainers...i am stock and don't rev the car past 7k rpm's

the other tuner was Chris from EFI logics.....awesome tuner and i have gone to him before and couldn't be happier...

i will call him up today to see if i can get them to send me logs...i dont know if tuners like doing this or not but i will try

 

Yeah, that makes sense, keep running the inferior plug.....lol. Also, you took the valve cover off to replace the spark plugs? I hope you're talking about the spark plug cover. You're being lazy and your engine is suffering. Not checking gap to make sure it's ok(which i'd bet money it's not) is lazy. Don't ask for help and then not listen to the expert advise that was given to you. You're on your own kid.

 

dude I haven't even driven my car since all this happened so relax. and I am taking everyones advice but no one has the spark plugs in stock. also I'm pretty sure those plugs are very common for evo's. and sorry about the typo...obviously I didn't take off the valve cover. I never beat on my car which is why I didn't know it was knocking until I got tuned.

 

Oh, i'm relaxed...i could care less about what you do with your car, but you must realize this....i chimed in to help YOU out...and gave you a lot of great info. But again, you do what you want.

You need to find the cause of knock....end of story. But in the meantime, at least put the best plugs in the engine and run the proper gap. This could be your problem....at the very least, if those copper plugs are as old as you say they are, it's time for a plug change anyway.

If you know how to use ECU Flash, retard ignition timing 3 degs in the area of re-occurring knock and see if this helps. If retarding the ignition timing does not help, you'll need to look further and also look at Air/Fuel ratios if you have a wideband.

 

i really do appreciate the help...i just dont want people to think im neglecting my car...i am obsessed with it and this problem is really scaring me....i will try new plugs as soon as i can get them but everyone doesnt have the bpr7es or the 8's....they do have the bpr7eix plugs though....can i use those with a .025 gap?

 

$20 on your head gasket

 

In another thread a guy was having bad misfiring problems under boost and putting in new plugs cleared it right up...

 

that will make me sooooo happy!!! it just kind of sucks that i have to spend the money to get a retune because i forgot to change my stupid plugs....

 

Sometimes you just need to learn the hard way. Lord knows it happens to me from time to time! Hopefully it works out for ya man and keep us posted.

 

you bet..

wonder how that turned out?

I picked up +25/+19 when i ditched the kelfords..

 

i wish i had the money to switch cams and go with the gsc s2's but i am broke right now so if the cams are what are causing my knock....that will suck....ill change the plugs and once i make some money i will try and get a retune....

 

xRoguex didn't you swap them out for a set of BR cams?

 

The BPR7ES plugs are copper plugs!! I'm telling you, you should stop using those plugs. The BPR*EIX plugs are the NGK Iridium plugs i'm telling you to get. If you read anything i wrote in my earlier post, you would see that you need to start with a high gap and work your way down until you don't have misfires. Don't just set them at .025 and think that's all you have to do. You'll need to do it as i suggested in order to properly gap your plugs. All engines and setups are different and will require different gap settings. You want to run the largest gap you can for several reasons.....again, like i stated in my earlier posts(that you obviously didn't really read thoroughly), running the largest gap you can exposes more spark to the mixture and also lowers firing end temps. Too small of a gap and you will loose power and more importantly, you'll increase firing end temps, which can cause pre-ignition(which is a form of knock).

Also, I suggest you run a colder plug, so run a heat range of 8....so get the BPR8EIX NGK Iridium IX plugs.....and start with a gap of .030 and work your way down until you don't have misfires in boost.

Once you do this you can start troubleshooting other things, if this does not help your knock issue. This will help you for sure though.

So, in this order:

1. Change plugs to a colder heat range of 8 and use the BPR8EIX plugs, properly gapped and properly torqued to insure a proper heat sink to the head.

2. Run the engine and see what happens with regards to knock. If knock goes away, you can leave it alone until you have money to double check the tune.

3. If knock did not go away, you'll need to lower ignition timing a few degs in the knock area and get a wideband o2s to check your AFRs. You could be running lean, which will cause detonation(a form of knock).

4. If after you've retarded ignition timing at least 5-6 degs and AFRs are proper and knock is still present, you should start looking for mechanical knock(false knock). It could be from your valvetrain, cams, rattling downpipe...etc. A lot of things can be making noise that the knock sensor is hearing and registering as knock. You'll need to use the process of elimination when hunting down false knock.

5. One of the fastest ways to find out if the knock you're having is real knock(pre-ignition or detonation) is to use a set of det cans and a well trained ear. A good tuner should be able to listen using the det cans and tell if it's actually real knock.


One last thing, there is a chance that what you're seeing is pre-ignition from a casting or even excess carbon buildup in the combustion chamber(from running overly rich) that heats up and ignites the mixture before the timed ignition event. This would be rare, but i've seen it happen many times before in the past.

 

okay so i went to advance auto today and they didnt have the bpr8eix's so i bought the copper ones(bpr8es) and will just have to change them more frequently....tonight at some point i will gap them at 30 and if i punch it and throw a SES and its for a misfire then i should close the gap a little?

 

the copper plugs should work fine for now, but i still recommend the other plugs, hands down. you spent some money on your evo, why go cheap with plugs?

You will notice a misfire, it will come in the form of breaking up under boost. if you have a wideband, a misfire will also register as fast lean spikes. you may or may not get a DTC for misfires...this will not be a reliable way to tell. trust me, if it misses, youll know it.