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HTA Green Boost Spiking :( Anyone else got this problem?

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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:52 PM
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I just reach my hand down, grab the rod and pull it back onto the flapper mount. (after adjusting of course).
Old Jul 13, 2010, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Appauldd
I just reach my hand down, grab the rod and pull it back onto the flapper mount. (after adjusting of course).
I'm assuming you guys do this with the heat shield off?
Old Jul 13, 2010, 06:29 AM
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Yeah....pretty much no one runs the lower heat shield. It is a pain to remove and just gets in the way of everything. Take out.
Old Jul 13, 2010, 07:48 PM
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18psi actuator, 84mm cover, and 84mm intake on the way. will keep this updated.
Old Aug 7, 2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by buchnerj
Let me start by saying that I had the exact same setup as you. HTA Green 64mm, APS Twin vent, and 18psi WGA. I was getting TERRIBLE surging during spool up and boost spiking up high. It was a combination of the compressor cover and the BOV. My BOV would flutter and couldn't hold up to the 35 psi I was running with the HTA. Your only option is to either turn the boost down significantly to cut down on the compressor cover surge or at least change up the compressor cover. Once I switched to the 84mm Flow advancement port and the Tial QR Recirculating BOV I have had 0 issues. It is a night and day difference. The HTA is prone to these problems since it is using a standard 64mm stock flowing inlet and flowing significantly more air than the stock turbo. This causes spool up to be very rough and surging issues. I am telling you, I tried every solution, 25psi WGA, ECU boost, everything, nothing solved the problem until I purchased the 84mm port and a new BOV. Now it is flawless. Perfect DD combination and the spool up insane and smooth as butter.

I saw you said you don't want to upgrade, but I exhausted all options before I did and nothing worked... Sorry but your going to have to sink some money into her...

Well I finally did the compressor cover and 18psi actuator. I didn't think it was the aps bov, so I kept that. I went ahead with the fp intake and cut the hose to fit the perrin intake heatshield/maf. Took it out today and did a 3rd gear pull. Boost hit 22psi and literally stayed there like it was stuck, all the way to redline. I couldn't believe how steady it was. It was like someone reached in and held the needle so it wouldnt move. I can't believe the difference. And the ported compressor cover sounds much more wicked than the stock ported one. Thanks for the helpful info buchnerj. Gonna go ahead and set up the tune. Will keep ya posted.
Old Sep 5, 2010, 09:37 PM
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Finally got the car tuned, and it feels like a beast! One thing worth noting though, is that boost sat perfectly at 22psi initially, but as I approached redline, it would creep up to 23-24psi. Not sure what caused it, but we worked it out. Anyone know what may be causing this? I thought usually you would see taper.
Old Sep 5, 2010, 11:42 PM
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now its "creeping". Some ppl like creep. You can use it to your advantage, as long as u run reasonable boost levels before it creeps, and tune your fuel/timing, to compensate.
to eliminate the creep, you need to port the wastegate hole in the o2 housing.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bs-thread.html
Old Sep 6, 2010, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nonschlont
now its "creeping". Some ppl like creep. You can use it to your advantage, as long as u run reasonable boost levels before it creeps, and tune your fuel/timing, to compensate.
to eliminate the creep, you need to port the wastegate hole in the o2 housing.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bs-thread.html
Thats what I figured, what sort of bothers me is that my boost controller is turned all the way down. I literally had it turned as far as it would go back, then moved it forward a quarter turn to where the boost is now. But if it works it works.
Old Sep 6, 2010, 08:28 AM
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embrace the creep. it means your wastegate is not flowing that well. this forces the pressure over turbine where it can do work. a little bit of creep is a good thing. lower rpms is where engine is most likely to detonate. higher rpms the piston speeds are so high there is no time for it to occur. those who are aware of this try to make the boost curve creep.
Old Sep 6, 2010, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
embrace the creep. it means your wastegate is not flowing that well. this forces the pressure over turbine where it can do work. a little bit of creep is a good thing. lower rpms is where engine is most likely to detonate. higher rpms the piston speeds are so high there is no time for it to occur. those who are aware of this try to make the boost curve creep.
Exactly...I always wonder why folks don't have the "boost spike" set lower (e.g. 27 psi @ 3500 - 4000 range and gradually increase the boost e.g. 32 psi at 7800 rpm - the shock to the drivetrain would be less (good thing), you'd have a flatter torque curve (easier / better for racing), and great hp up top...

I'll will be testing this in a few weeks with my new HTA Green and psi based boost control ....
Old Sep 6, 2010, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cij911
Exactly...I always wonder why folks don't have the "boost spike" set lower (e.g. 27 psi @ 3500 - 4000 range and gradually increase the boost e.g. 32 psi at 7800 rpm - the shock to the drivetrain would be less (good thing), you'd have a flatter torque curve (easier / better for racing), and great hp up top...

I'll will be testing this in a few weeks with my new HTA Green and psi based boost control ....
I have apexi AVCR on my evo 1. with wastegate boost on HTA green I get 17psi falling to 15psi. I currently have boost at 20 creeping to 21. The difference in powerband is lovely. My goal is 23 creeping to 27.
Old Sep 6, 2010, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
I have apexi AVCR on my evo 1. with wastegate boost on HTA green I get 17psi falling to 15psi. I currently have boost at 20 creeping to 21. The difference in powerband is lovely. My goal is 23 creeping to 27.
Is this with the 18# FP actuator?
Old Sep 7, 2010, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky
Is this with the 18# FP actuator?
no, my actuator is custom from holset turbo. the stock one has no clearance in my small compartment
Old Sep 7, 2010, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by I4UnderPressure
Well I finally did the compressor cover and 18psi actuator. I didn't think it was the aps bov, so I kept that. I went ahead with the fp intake and cut the hose to fit the perrin intake heatshield/maf. Took it out today and did a 3rd gear pull. Boost hit 22psi and literally stayed there like it was stuck, all the way to redline. I couldn't believe how steady it was. It was like someone reached in and held the needle so it wouldnt move. I can't believe the difference. And the ported compressor cover sounds much more wicked than the stock ported one. Thanks for the helpful info buchnerj. Gonna go ahead and set up the tune. Will keep ya posted.
Just saw this post, glad to hear you got everything sorted out. Yes, the issue with the HTA Greens are usually the inlet cover. You are flowing a ton of air through that little 64mm cover and you have to have a very free flowing induction and exhaust system to keep up with all that airflow. The 84mm cover is the simplest and cheapest of the options to solve the issue. I am not sure wether the Tial BOV was necessary for me or not, but it has worked like a dream so far.

The surging problems were a real PITA, and really made the car less fun to drive, because you had constant bucking and hesitation. With the free flowing cover and smooth boost, it feels like a totally different car.

Have fun with it, and be safe
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