I'm rethinking my decision on the 1650's, and looking at 1450s or 2150s. I've heard the voltage drop when the second pump kicks in can cause some inconsistencies. On top of this, driveabiliy seems better on the 1450s and 2150s based on the user community.

1450's should take me to ~700whp on e85, which should be fine so I am leaning towards these.
2150s cost more than double with the adapters, but I will never need another set of injectors.

Thoughts on going with the 1450's with my setup?

 

You listed the reasons yourself. If you ever plan on pushing over 700hp, then I would go for the 2150s. I'm perfectly happy with my 1450s.

-Acree

 

It's been quite a few months haha... I'll just pickup some 1450s, since I don't expect to push more than 700 on this combo. I'll start it up on my PTE1000's.

I'm waiting for my JMF FMIC to come in (it's been a few weeks,) and I'm almost ready to get this motor started. I pressure tested the coolant system without leakage, which was a huge relief.

I'm going to break-in on the MAF. Suggestions on a simple intake, without a recirc tube?

 

No idea as far as the intake goes.

I feel you on the delay part. My motor had 2700 miles on it and spun a bearing. It will be down another 2 months.

-Acree

 

I'm in the same boat. A "2 weeks at most" motor swap started in October and its still not running.

 

What ended up being the culprit on the spun bearing?

 

Ouch sorry to hear about the bearing man.

This seems to be the trend. My build was supposed to take 2 months, and I just passed the 1 year mark. My motor blew June 5th 2010. More than $17k later and replacing nearly everything, I still have no Evo to drive.

 

That's why mine isn't running either. I decked and o-ringed the block myself at work but the head gasket still blew under 4 psi during a light break in pull in front of my house. It leaked coolant rapidly into the oil (within a few blocks I estimated a full quart if not more was mixed). I had no idea until I pulled into my garage a few seconds later and smelled coolant in the air. The bearings were obliterated, the cam caps were scored, and the piston side skirts, and bores were scuffed. I got a hair over 20 miles out of that motor and ate $2K so far. Needless to say the cometic 4G64 head gasket is worthless no matter how well you prep and fortify the deck of the block. What really sucks is that I had a very nicely running, 500+ whp evo and there was no real need to build the 64 in the first place. I should have left it alone.

 

which bearings spun? number 1 or number 5 mains?

 

Ouch! Send a bill to Cometic for your motor.

I'm putting my trust into an AMS 2.4 HG, and if it were not for evom I would have likely used a Cometic.

Curious, how did you guys go about starting up the motor the first time? I've read 50 ways to break in a motor, and plan on just driving it normal after I start it up and check for leaks! Rotella first, then Brad Penn 20-50. I will not have a good tune, so I will not be pushing very hard. I'm starting up on my PTE1000's which I already have dialed in. Stockish fuel/timing map to be conservative.

Speaking of which, I was going to give Ivey a ring to see if he has interest in tuning another 2.4/Black on Stock ECU SD.

 

I always do a warmup on a good dino oil, then drain that immediately. Refill with fresh oil, put about 20 miles, lightly boosting here and there (there is no need to wait for boosting, the rings seat within the first 20 minutes). I do another change, then treat it like normal but change the oil after 100-500-1000- then 3000 miles. Retorque the head studs around the 500 mile mark. I would at least allow for a heat cycling or two then light boost a few times before going to town and pushing it. I've heard time and time again by pro builders that there is no benefit to breaking in a new motor by babying it.
I went with a machined OEM gasket like AMS makes. I work for an engineering firm and we have an unbelievably good machinist who lets me do whatever I want and guides me if I need it. I lucked out and only had to pay for balancing at DARE in West Chester.
Get ahold of Petey turbo here on the forums. He's in north Jersey, and tunes the vast majority of the local Evo's on the forum. He is probably as good as you're going to get if you can hold out a few. He can be hard to get ahold of but it's worth it. I've done a few tunes when he isn't available for some of the guys but I always tell them to go to him if possible.

 

I won't know for another month or so. The car is still sitting outside. I will update my build thread once I know. I don't want to derail Drew's thread.

-Acree

 

Looks like you decided to keep the car Arcee. Thats great.

Missed deadlines............Man I don't even want to talk about it.

I paid the machine shop half the money to get started
I paid my turbo fabricator half as well.

3 months later my fabricator has gone radio silent and the machine shop is telling me next week (The parts they are waiting on should've already been in the block).

I started early thinking by the time I had money to get the car rolling I'd have the most important pieces (Engine and turbo kit). Money spent. Still waiting.

I'm trying not to get pissed off.

 

A glorious day yesterday. My 2.4/FP Black build finally hit the road. 20 miles on the car, and its time for the first oil/filter change.

The only realized problem so far is that it tends to fall out of 2nd gear and reverse. After talking with the vendor on the phone, they believe it is a linkage issue and sent me a simple guide to check. I will not be home for a few days to check, and I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before.

It works in 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Observations- In first gear the shifter throw is unusually longer than going into second or other downward gears. There is also some shifter resistance all-around.

In reverse, I need to hold it in gear. As soon as I engage the clutch, it wants to pop out of gear. In second gear, while up-shifting from 1st I need to hold it in second until I engage the clutch and accelerate. It goes in, and then wants to pop out as soon as I engage the clutch. If I decelerate in 2nd, it immediately falls out.

 

you should go with the Injector Dynamics 2200cc high impedance injectors. They won't cause idle issues and will handle anything. check them out. they are expensive, but you'll never need another injector again, ever.