Drewdq's SBR 2.4/FP Black Build
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From: Conshohocken, PA
I'll bring this thread back, again, for an update. The car is 90% together, and I am waiting for a handful of small items such as battery terminal adapters, injector clips, bracket for crank sensor, exhaust gaskets, new intercooler, ect. I never imagined it would take this long to get back together, and I miss driving this car! I'm hoping to get the new setup running in the next few weeks, unless something else comes up. Below is my updated parts list:
SBR Stage III 2.4L
Headwork by Ron Whitney, fully rebuilt/ported
Intake/Turbo
Exhuast
Drivetrain
Fuel
Other
For the break in, I am planning on using a cheap non-synthetic oil with an OEM filter, and after a second change and another 100 miles or so, I was going to switch to Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic premium protection. I don't think it matters to use an approved FP oil since I will not be boosting initially, but correct me if I'm wrong.
I'll be running E85 for the break-in unless there is a reason I really shouldn't. Anyone suggest I drain one year old E85, before starting up?
SBR Stage III 2.4L
- OEM 100mm crank
- Manley I-beam rods
- Manley 9:5 87mm pistons
- ACL race bearings
- ARP mains
- AMS custom head gasket
- ARP L19s
- OEM water pump, custom welded to fit
- OEM oil pump assembly
- Fluidampr damper
- OEM 4g64 Timing Belt with new tensioner, idler pulley, idler belt
- Balance shaft and oil squirters removed
- New OEM oil cooler
- New oil pan and pickup
- OEM complete gasket set
- EGR block plate
Headwork by Ron Whitney, fully rebuilt/ported
- Manley springs, titanium retainers
- Manley valves, 1mm oversized
- 3 angle valve job
- Kiggly HLA
- FP4R cams
- Fidanza cam gears
Intake/Turbo
- Ported FP Black with install kit
- Ported stock intake manifold
- Mil.Spec 65mm throttle body
- JMF UICP
- JMF LICP
- JMF FMIC
- FP intake pipe (w/ MAF for now)
- Perrin air filter
- Tial Q BOV
- Hallman Pro MBC
- AWD Motorsports speed density kit
Exhuast
- MAP tubular exhaust manifold
- FP exhaust stud kit
- Megan O2 housing
- Megan downpipe
- Straight pipe
- HKS 3" exhaust
Drivetrain
- Shep ultimate ratio trans
- Shep stage III transfer case w/ LSD
- Quartermaster twin kit w/ hydro TOB
- AMS motor mount inserts (3)
- Torque Solution rear motor mount
- Shifter bushings
Fuel
- Buschur double pumper
- FIC 1650's
Other
- Spoolinup COP
- AMS small battery tray
- MAP small battery
- AEM wideband, boost, oil pressure gauge
- Gruppe-S gauge panel and radio relocation
- Stock ECU Tephra V7
- Hallman Pro RX boost controller
- Lot's 'o new misc parts
For the break in, I am planning on using a cheap non-synthetic oil with an OEM filter, and after a second change and another 100 miles or so, I was going to switch to Amsoil 10w-40 synthetic premium protection. I don't think it matters to use an approved FP oil since I will not be boosting initially, but correct me if I'm wrong.
I'll be running E85 for the break-in unless there is a reason I really shouldn't. Anyone suggest I drain one year old E85, before starting up?
I'd go with 93 octane for break in to avoid excess seepage of E85 past the unseated rings. It could thin out the oil at the critical break in point. At least for a good 20 miles or so. It's also untuned at this point. Mine ran like complete garbage when I initially started it on E85. I let it warm up then drained it and filled with 93 after reading some opinions on E85 for new rings.
I'd go with 93 octane for break in to avoid excess seepage of E85 past the unseated rings. It could thin out the oil at the critical break in point. At least for a good 20 miles or so. It's also untuned at this point. Mine ran like complete garbage when I initially started it on E85. I let it warm up then drained it and filled with 93 after reading some opinions on E85 for new rings.
For break-in oil i'd run rotella non-synthetic and run that for at least 1000 miles(not one oil change of course)
Same here. I did motor break-in on E85. I don't think it is a problem at all, if you run the right oil. I also didn't seem to have much blow by in the oil when it was drained like 3 times the first 1k miles.
Mikey
Mikey
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From: Conshohocken, PA
Safe to say I should start-up/break in with Rotella non-synthetic on e85? Why this specific oil?
I am now contemplating getting AEM EMS. I like the stock ECU because I'm familiar with it. What does evom think?
I am now contemplating getting AEM EMS. I like the stock ECU because I'm familiar with it. What does evom think?
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Either its a moot point now.
Rotella still has good zinc and phosphorous content which you need, and its got good additives and detergents.
Stock ECU is very good, so getting an AEM might not necessarily do anything for you.
Its a toss up IMO and I'm familiar with both.
i have had my sbr 2.4 for almost a yr now. been running good ever since..(knock on wood) =)
i have heard about another shops 2.4 thats failed but they dont get posted online. o well
+1 for sbr.
i have heard about another shops 2.4 thats failed but they dont get posted online. o well
+1 for sbr.
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Evolving Member
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From: Conshohocken, PA




