Drewdq's SBR 2.4/FP Black Build
exactly its all in the look of it. The only sparktech one i liked was the one with the chrome background but Carbon fiber is good for my enginebay look.
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Evolving Member
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From: Conshohocken, PA
Updated Build Specs
Here are the updated specs on my build. At this point I am still waiting for parts to come in, and still tweaking my setup while trying not to spend too much money!
Engine:
I welcome any feedback with any of the parts I listed above!
Thanks, Drew
Engine:
- SBR 2.4
- Manley 9:5 Pistons
- Manley I-Beams
- ACL Race Bearings
- OEM Crank (not cut)
- ARP Mains
- ARP L19s
- Balance Shaft Eliminator
- Oil Squirters Removed
- New OEM Timing belt parts (tensioner, pulleys, 4g64 timing belt)
- New OEM water pump, water pump spacer, oil pump
- Fidanza Cam Gears
- AMS Custom Headgasket
- Replaced OEM Oil Cooler
- Kiggly HLA
- Headwork by Ron Whitney, fully ported
- Manley springs, titanium retainers
- Manely 1mm oversize valves
- 3-angle valve job
- Ported stock intake manifold
- HKS 272 Cams
- Shep Racing Stage III Transfer Case
- Shep Racing Ultimate Ratio Trans
- Quartermaster Twin with hydro TOB
- Ported Forced Performance Black Turbo with install kit
- Forced Performance Intake
- Perrin Air Filter
- Forge RS BOV
- Muse Short Route UICP
- Buschur LICP
- ETS 3.5" FMIC
- Hallman Pro Boost Controller
- Buschur Ported Stock Exhaust Manifold
- Megan Racing O2 Housing
- Megan Racing Downpipe
- Straight Pipe
- HKS Exhaust
- Buschur Double Pumper
- FIC 1650's
- Spoolinup COP
- AMS Small Battery Tray
- Map Performance Small Battery
- Tuning with Stock ECU - Tephra V7
- AEM Wide-band
- AEM Boost Gauge
- New Toyo Proxes 4 for now...
- Evo MR Bilstein shocks
I welcome any feedback with any of the parts I listed above!
Thanks, Drew
If your going to do pump gas I would avoid the FIC 1650's and get the 1450's instead which will have more then enough fuel for the black and 2.4L while having better driveability on pump gas.
Also when you install everything if YOU do, check the fidanza cam gears because many were marked wrong and the holes for the EVO actually are the DSM holes (towel pins should point north when motor is set to TDC).
Looks great otherwise.
Also when you install everything if YOU do, check the fidanza cam gears because many were marked wrong and the holes for the EVO actually are the DSM holes (towel pins should point north when motor is set to TDC).
Looks great otherwise.
If your going to do pump gas I would avoid the FIC 1650's and get the 1450's instead which will have more then enough fuel for the black and 2.4L while having better driveability on pump gas.
Also when you install everything if YOU do, check the fidanza cam gears because many were marked wrong and the holes for the EVO actually are the DSM holes (towel pins should point north when motor is set to TDC).
Looks great otherwise.
Also when you install everything if YOU do, check the fidanza cam gears because many were marked wrong and the holes for the EVO actually are the DSM holes (towel pins should point north when motor is set to TDC).
Looks great otherwise.

My New Setup:
I will be running the stock ECU on 93/E85 with TephraMod V7, and will be professionally tuned. I am not looking to spend more money than I need to, and I am shooting for ~575whp on E85.
EvoM can help me with the following:
Thanks guys!
- Slowboy Racing Stage III 2.4L
- OEM Polished Crank (not cut)
- Manley I Beam Rods
- ACL Race Bearings
- Manley .020'' 8:5:1 Pistons
- ARP Main Studs
- Cometic 87mm Bore Headgasket
- Water Pump Spacer and OEM 2.0 Water Pump
- OEM Oil Pump Assembly
- OEM 4g64 timing belt
- ARP L19 Head Studs
- Ported FP Black with Install Kit and 25psi actuator
- Headwork will be done by Ron Whitney, and will likely be ported with 1mm oversized valves, springs/retainers, ect.
- Ported Stock Intake Manifold by Ron Whitney
- Kelford 280's
- Fidanza Cam Gears (required for 2.4 with a 2.0 head)
- Shep Street/Strip Trans w/ Redline MT-90
- QuarterMaster Twin Disc Kit
- PPI Swaintech Coated/Ported Stock Exhaust Manifold
- PPI Swaintech Coated/Ported Megan O2 Housing
- BR Double 255 Pumper
- FIC 1450's
- Hallman Pro Boost Controller
I will be running the stock ECU on 93/E85 with TephraMod V7, and will be professionally tuned. I am not looking to spend more money than I need to, and I am shooting for ~575whp on E85.
EvoM can help me with the following:
- Should I replace the Injen UICP, and get a more direct UICP with a small battery kit? Cost vs Benefit?
- Better Intake choices?
- Feedback on ANY parts listed above ^^
- I am open for any other installation hints/suggestions, or components I should replace while I have everything out.
- Is anyone is selling something I am looking for?
- Ways to save money. This will be around $12,500 for parts, and I only wanted to spend ~$10,000.
Thanks guys!
I suggest not getting the cometic head gasket and going with a better brand. I got the same block from SBR and returned that gasket and bought the AMS machined gasket.
UICP- ETS or AMS
INTAKE - FP intake pipe
As for your additional parts, you know you only need the exhaust cam gear not both. I would re-think going with oversized valves for your application. Also, unless you really want the large cam go with 272, I run kelford 272. Definately consider going with a ported turbo manifold over stock. I wish I figured it in my first round, but didnt.
You can definately do this in $10k, my entire build with just about all the changes you have was like $10,1xx. I saved a lot by sending my turbo to FP for the upgrade and not buying brand new.
If you want to save some money, doesnt ETS make a stock route UICP? That way you can use the stock battery and tray.
With your injectors, I currently have the PTE 1000, but will be going to FIC 2150 for sure.
With your injectors, I currently have the PTE 1000, but will be going to FIC 2150 for sure.
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Evolving Member
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From: Conshohocken, PA
+1 
Why would I want to reconsider over sized valves? I spoke to the shop who is building my head, and they highly recommended going 1mm over for ~600whp. They have built hundreds if not thousands of high hp race motors, and I trusted their judgment on that call.

Why would I want to reconsider over sized valves? I spoke to the shop who is building my head, and they highly recommended going 1mm over for ~600whp. They have built hundreds if not thousands of high hp race motors, and I trusted their judgment on that call.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Conshohocken, PA
1450's would work for my setup, but I wanted to give myself some play room. I've heard others on 1650's drive on pump gas just fine. I will be on e85 95% of the time, unless the local station decides to stop carrying it!
to be honest im doing 1000cc and if i have to up them im highly considering the 2100 or 2000 that are out just pay the 700-1000 and then never need another injector again unless i get a cut throat deal on some smaller ones. im sure if I look hard enough i can find some. another thing i did not think of OP was get a COP please on top of that do oversized valve got it in my built head for sure Im thoughts if im building a head I want it ALL Done so its truely built no matter what I throw at it my head will handle it
Exactly.
to be honest im doing 1000cc and if i have to up them im highly considering the 2100 or 2000 that are out just pay the 700-1000 and then never need another injector again unless i get a cut throat deal on some smaller ones. im sure if I look hard enough i can find some. another thing i did not think of OP was get a COP please on top of that do oversized valve got it in my built head for sure Im thoughts if im building a head I want it ALL Done so its truely built no matter what I throw at it my head will handle it 
Unless your going to put a really large turbo on your car, the 2150's are really just overkill and a waste of money.






