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Drewdq's SBR 2.4/FP Black Build

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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #31  
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by Acree
Why can't you reuse the stock pullies?

-Acree
so you would rather have everything new on your motor and old pullies. you can get both of them from russell for 230 shipped. you should not really reused anything off the old motor. just the oil pan
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #32  
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From: Conshohocken, PA
Originally Posted by JohnBradley
Injen UICP can be improved by being replaced, the angle change right before the TB is not ideal.
I will be replacing the uicp, and adding a small battery kit.

Originally Posted by whitepwr
Lol @ the Fp Black/2.4/e85 bandwagon..

I definitely wouldnt run the kelford 280s over the 272s on your setup.. You have a turbo that makes all midrange power and a motor built for torque.. Why would you throw a cam on there thats going to sacrifice low/mid range power for topend power that your turbo will never get to take advantage of?

Stick with the ported stocker.. The point of running a 2.4L Fp black setup on e85 is for quick spool and lots of torque, if you go with a manifold like magnus you'll justbe ruining your low/mid range torque. If you want something that makes good topend then sell your black and your 2.4 and buy an HTA86 and a 2.0 or 2.1L.
I thought about the cams more last night and I decided to do Kelford 272's for that very reason. As for the Intake manifold, I am only sticking with the stocker to keep my price down.

I also decided to go with Manley 9:1 pistons.

Last edited by drewdq; Jul 12, 2010 at 05:25 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 05:26 PM
  #33  
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You also have to look at needing a larger cam becaus of the larger displacement. I personally went with kelford 280's
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #34  
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If he doesn't change his mind again and still does the head work, going with the 272 or 280 cams would be matter of low to mid range response vs higher top end. Either way it's a solid build and all he can do right now is tweak it a little bit here and there for effecient reliable pwr.
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 05:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by apagan01
- intake manifold,,, port it your self,, its super simple,,, there is nothing special they are doing you cant do,,, buy your self a 6 inch scale that measures inches and MM and you can take out as little or much as you want,,,,, or even better get your self some deph gauges and micromiters or calipers and get scientific,,,, you can buy cheap on ebay and you can still use the tools for something else. bottom line save yourself money and port your own stuff,,,, i would also do my own coating you dont have to go fancy,,, you will not gain any power by doing so its only temperature and looks related,,,, get yourself 40 bucks worth of wrapping material and wrap the DP, o2, exh mani.
I have seen some horrible hack jobs before. I would not recommend anyone do this yourself unless you know what the heck you're doing.
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 07:24 PM
  #36  
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From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
I have seen some horrible hack jobs before. I would not recommend anyone do this yourself unless you know what the heck you're doing.
exactly
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
I have seen some horrible hack jobs before. I would not recommend anyone do this yourself unless you know what the heck you're doing.
comeon Erick we can do this all day

i understand your point but i am assuming ther OP has some mechanical skills,,, TB no doubt i would have a lathe do the job, but intakle mani their is nothing special in that task at all,,, unless you are doing a Wilson manifold type of deal where you are splitting the runners from plenum and rewelding,,, but a mild port job is not hard.

anyways just a few tips could have saved him a few hundred $.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #38  
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$12,500??? That is too high in my opinion. I basically have the same set-up as you and its so close.

I went with the 2.4 SBR motor and paid $3800 for the Stage III and also a new oil pump, gasket, oil pan, pick-up and upgrades. I am also going to the FP black turbo with the 25psi actuator and all new lines. I sent my IX turbo in for the upgrade which totaled $1500. I also upgraded bout the exedy twin HD for $900. Those are the expensive parts which only add up to $6200.

I am getting tuned at AMS so another $400. I had to purchase UICP, BOV, cam gears, gaskets, fluids and LICP which totaled $1100.

$6200+$1100+$400=$7700 and I will get a full detail from Rush Group for $300. Meaning I spent $8000 for everything and my goal was $8000 because thats what it would of cost to get a OEM from the dealer.

FYI - my parts were already ported and I had the rest of the bolt-ons, kelford 272, 1000cc injectors etc prior to this.

Last edited by Earthen; Jul 13, 2010 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #39  
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by drewdq
1) What/Where is this $150 AMS Custom HG? Powerenterprises is $220, anything less pricey?

3) Why a fluidampr? I'm trying to cut costs, but somehow keep adding I'll be picking up a Kiggly HLA.

4) I believe SBR uses the oil squirters, but with/without them I don't really think makes a difference. Some people like them, some don't.

5) BS is removed as part of SBR's build.

6) I'll be getting new pulley's.

Thanks, I guess I'll be part of the Army here soon
In my opinion, you don't really need to buy new pulleys, they aren't very expensive but an extra cost you dont have to spend when your already over budget. I highly recommend a new oil pump and gasket when you order have them install it for less risk of anything. For the kiggly HLA, that is up to you.

Can't tell you yet if their work is quality or failure since I havent even gotten everything installed yet, but 2 weeks away from my tune. I can say that SBR is slow. They quoted 4 weeks then took 6 weeks.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Earthen
In my opinion, you don't really need to buy new pulleys, they aren't very expensive but an extra cost you dont have to spend when your already over budget. I highly recommend a new oil pump and gasket when you order have them install it for less risk of anything. For the kiggly HLA, that is up to you.

Can't tell you yet if their work is quality or failure since I havent even gotten everything installed yet, but 2 weeks away from my tune. I can say that SBR is slow. They quoted 4 weeks then took 6 weeks.
have you gotten the sbr motor yet?? if so have you had it taken apart and checked out?? make sure all parts were there no bad bearings or shaved rods?? I only ask because of the rumors you hear i want to know if there is any truth to them as i have had nothing but positive experience with them.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 06:16 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
have you gotten the sbr motor yet?? if so have you had it taken apart and checked out?? make sure all parts were there no bad bearings or shaved rods?? I only ask because of the rumors you hear i want to know if there is any truth to them as i have had nothing but positive experience with them.
I recieved the motor, but have not taken it apart to check it out yet. I will find out by the weekend what is what.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Earthen
I recieved the motor, but have not taken it apart to check it out yet. I will find out by the weekend what is what.
good check back in this thread and let us all know if its drop in capable like you were told. no loose bolts machined correctly crank can spin no bad bearings damaged rods pistons look good. and thrust washers are not scatched . Oh and big thing crank is not cut
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #43  
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From: Conshohocken, PA
Originally Posted by Earthen
$12,500??? That is too high in my opinion. I basically have the same set-up as you and its so close.

I went with the 2.4 SBR motor and paid $3800 for the Stage III and also a new oil pump, gasket, oil pan, pick-up and upgrades. I am also going to the FP black turbo with the 25psi actuator and all new lines. I sent my IX turbo in for the upgrade which totaled $1500. I also upgraded bout the exedy twin HD for $900. Those are the expensive parts which only add up to $6200.

I am getting tuned at AMS so another $400. I had to purchase UICP, BOV, cam gears, gaskets, fluids and LICP which totaled $1100.

$6200+$1100+$400=$7700 and I will get a full detail from Rush Group for $300. Meaning I spent $8000 for everything and my goal was $8000 because thats what it would of cost to get a OEM from the dealer.

FYI - my parts were already ported and I had the rest of the bolt-ons, kelford 272, 1000cc injectors etc prior to this.
SBR 2.4 Stage III $2,722.00
4g64 OEM Timing Belt $80.00
OEM Evo VIII Water Pump $149.00
OEM Oil Pump Assembly $218.00
Fidanza Cam Gears x2 $189.00
Water Pump Spacer $24.00
ARP L19 Head Studs $215.00
Motor Shipping $200.00
Trans Incoming Shipping $125.00
FP Black Turbo $1,700.00
Megan O2 Housing $75.00
Shep Trans $895.00
Trans Shipping $95.00
Headwork Est $1,400.00
Ported Intake Mani $150.00
Kelford 272's $430.00
QuarterMaster Twin disc kit $1,330.00
MT90 $35.00
Intake Mani Gasket $9.00
Exhuast Mani Gasket $25.00
Exhaust Studs $25.00
JMF Intake Pipe $110.00
Hallman Pro Boost Controller $95.00
OEM Oil Cooler $55.00
FIC 1550 $440.00
BR Double Pumper $500.00
BR Ported/Coated Exhuast Manifold $195.00
AMS HG $160.00
Kiggly HLA $175.00
Map Small Race Battery $100.00
Muse Battery Kit $60.00
JMF UICP $270.00
Boost Gauge $100.00
Fluidampr $280.00
MISC Gaskets/Couplers/Other $100.00
TOTAL $12,731.00

Adds up quick.

Any suggestions on an UICP/Intake Pipe with a MAF and stock BOV flange. Looking for something good and inexpensive.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #44  
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some of those prices are way off and some parts can be subsituted like l19 headstuds you can get the undercut versions and save cash. fluidampr get from mike for 265. you can hold off on the sheps trans till later to allow you to recover. you can get ported intake manifolds cheaper as well.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #45  
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That trans needs to be rebuilt just as bad.
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