My block from SBR had a "bell" shape to the bores, so something else that should be checked, along with other things mentioned.
As others have said, 1450's are more than enough for fp black 2.4

 

What did you do once you saw the bell shaped bores? Did SBR work with you and take it back?

 

LOL wow did you not read what i wrote i said if i/or any user could find a baller deal on 1400cc - 1600cc Jump on that for sure. Then I stated im sure you could find it yes the 2100 etc are over kill for majority of setups i agree there. when i use e85 im just using whatever injector i need to get the job done.

 

ill answer that question for Nickie no they did not I think the story was they took it back then sent it back to him but ended up being worser(yes not a word) then it was from jump street motor blew and had a cut crank could not reused block due to being bored to much was a complete mess and total nightmare \


That sums it up pretty well hints me always asking SBR motor owners to SERIOUSLY check there ****

 

Yes, it is good. No problems so far. Although the car has only been started and it sounds so good. Got an issue with idle and it stalling out, but thats it.

 

So far my experience with their work seems to be fine, the service is so SLOW. They definately live up to their name...Rockman is right, make sure to check your stuff. Also double check your order to what you get. I was missing the SS oil line that comes with the block when I got it. They changed it so you cant use a banjo like OEM and have to use a fitting instead.

 

The reason I said really think about oversized valves is because of the intricacy needed for porting and machine work. There is a lot more than people know about simply wanting oversized valves. The key to determining what size to use is based off the flow.

There is a lot of engineering to consider here, and depending on application, at least for myself I dont think oversized valves will be worthwile overall. You may get a gain here, but it really depends on the porting job.

 

it was a 2.4 that had bearing failure due to him not replacing the oil cooler from a previously blown motor, as i had asked, and he said he didnt...just to clear it up. No more discussion needed. This isnt the place.

 

I never said that i hadnt. Thats what YOU said.
And the bearing failure is only one of the things to be wary of. As mentioned above, the amazing machine work

 

This is a fact. IF we used a cut crank, its no more that .010 on mains and rods, and in a stage 2 (good for up to 600-650hp) that crank will never fail. theres still enough nitriding in the crank to promote strength.

Stage 3, it would in all honesty probably be ok as well, but me personally, for all peace of mind at stake, i will include either an OEM crank brand new, manley forged or billet or eagle, all depending on the customers budget in mind. Dont want to take any chances at all, even small ones on an engine built to handle 1000hp!

 

No need to argue, i asked you if you replaced it, you said no....and then i said thats the problem, then you said "you bought one used from someone".

Its ok. We took care of you anyways for not even enough money to pay our machinist. Again, no need to flood Drews thread. Just stating what i know from your experience.

 

Define bell shape? That doesnt even make sense to me. Did you contact us about it? Whats your name so i can look up the build.

 

The question was asked everybody needs to know whats up PERIOD there are tons of threads of SBR failed motors and such im asking a valid question just to make sure all is good. I ordered parts from Mark and you guys were straight with me no issues parts new and i got a refund on one part you did not have in stock extremely fast shipping i have no complaints with you from a parts aspect but as for building motors i know a couple of folks that have gotten lets say it junk motors. So again i tell the OP earthen or anybody else to have it fully inspected dont just drop it in. Even in my own 2.4 i had issues well documented in my build thread had i dropped it in I would be in nickies situation getting another built motor

SO IN SHORT GET YOUR BLOCK INSPECTED!! its not a knock against anybody its just the smart thing to do period

 

#1) What is a shaved rod?

#2) Or a shaved thrust washer?

#3) Make sure your rods are straight?

If you have questions, before someone with your teminology goes taking apart my work have someone who knows whats going on call us and go over the build sheet, we keep one for every build in case something bad does happen.

Or if you just need peace of mind, call me - I can go over the basic details.

All of the finish machine work is done (block hone) on a Sunnen SV10, our machine work is second to none - you could pay double what we charge and not get any better work.

If any Q's - feel free to email me - mh@slowboyracing.com

 

Your point is valid, and understood. If anyone has got an engine that has failed, even if it wasnt able to be proven that it was directly our fault, we have taken care of at pretty much only the cost of the parts and shipping, machine work/assembly labor was on the house. Were out to have satisfied customers with reliable setups built to handle their demands. Thats my main goal. Hence why i like to spend time with the customer over the phone going into great detail of the setup, just so i know its right for them